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From Hilo to Honolulu – one world to the next

Suddenly we are on the Las Vegas strip – or so it seems – which is a bit of a shock after being in much more low-key communities including Volcano and Hilo for the past week. We arrived here at about 5:30 p.m. and I haven’t figured out yet where one hotel ends and the next begins – or even where exactly our hotel ends since it seems to be an endless shopping mall that has engulfed our hotel. But it’s all good – interesting in its own way.

Hilo turned out to be much nicer once we got out of the car and started walking around (at first glance, when driving through a few days ago, it looked grimy and gritty.) Today it looked funky and charming. The farmers market was a densely packed assortment of stalls selling gorgeous flowers, vegetables and fruit – only some of which I could name – and all manner of homemade concoctions from pad thai to various semin (sp?) – a flipino sweet that’s sort of a pressed patty of coconut, rice and who knows what else wrapped inside a banana leaf. We visited a mochi shop – Two Ladies kitchen I think was the name – that is known as having the best mochi in all of hawaii. It’s a tiny place where it’s made fresh and although I don’t like this japanese sweet that much I bought a piece in honor of my sister-in-law Heather who loves it and first introduced me to it (she lived in Japan for awhile.) We also got great Poki – raw tuna lightly dressed in sesame oil and I dont’ know what else) at Ocean Sushi which is a popular spot w/locals (we found out about it by asking a local where to find Poki.)

We ate our meal – including our new favorite Hawaiian fruit, apple bananas – near the waterfront in the Lilipxxxx. (can’t remember the spelling) park with its lovely startling green lawns and japanese gardens and palm trees and little coconut island where signs warned us to beware of coconuts falling on our heads. A bunch of dare devil boys did dives and back flips off an old ruin of a ledge near the harbor. Can’t imagine what it must be like to grow up here.

Our flight to Honolulu was quick and uneventful – good viewing from the plane window of the other islands en route to Oahu. We had a fantastic dinner tonight at another place popular with locals – the Side Street Inn. The place was packed and we can tell why – we had the special fried rice with the bits of char sui pork, vegetables and amazing sizzling korean short ribs atop sautéed vegetables. The couple next to us turned out to be farmers from Illinois so we shared our food with them and they shared theirs with us since the portions were so enormous and we ended up sharing a cab back to Waikiki Beach with them. (We’re here for a national farm conference…so lots of farmers around, and lots of very well-heeled looking japanese people.)

One bummer: I seem to be missing my cell phone cord so that may mess up things a bit. Will work around it if need be.

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Into the volcano – on Hawaii’s Big Island

Sometimes it looks like the top of a very crusty pan of brownies. Other times, like the dark rough folds of a rhinocerous or elephant. That’s what came to mind as we were walking across the other-worldly surface of the Kileau Iki crater. It was also easy to imagine a sci-fi film crew suddenly appearing to take in the scene.

The four-mile hike on a glorious sunny day did not disappoint. We made our way along a path zigzagging through dense tropical vegetation down into the black barren wasteland of the crater surface where we walked right straight across. The only guide were cairns (stacks of rocks) scattered at various points to let us know where to go, sort of.

The drive down to the sea – Chain of Craters Drive – was spectacular. It took us 19 miles first through forest, then through lava-flattened and blackened fields and then to an overlook where way down below the ocean crashed up against more cliffs. Winding down another level towards the ocean we looked back at the green mountains we’d just been standing on and could see stretches that were blackened by lava flowing to the sea. The last 11 miles of the drive are closed due to previous eruption damage and there was no active lava flow but we did have not one drop of rain, which I gather is somewhat unusual. In fact, it’s only rained for a few hours during our six days here.

We also stopped in at the art gallery next to the visitors center in the park which was full of terrific stuff – koa wood bowls, painted gourds, wood block prints, wooden furniture, paintings – but all too expensive fur us. At 4 p.m. we had lunch – sharing a tuna melt at the pleasantly funky lava rock cafe and waited for my laundry to dry at the nearby Volcano Wash and Dry. After a brief stop in the hot tub here, we’re off to see some hula dancing back at the park on the grounds of the military base there.

The Kileau Lodge, by the by, did a MUCH better job with breakfast this morning (than dinner last night). We enjoyed sitting by the old stone fireplace with plaques set into it from YMCAs all over the world. And the food was well prepared and served.

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Iconic beach, loco moco, malasadas and an active volcano – glorious Hawaii

My sun bunny companion was yearning for a real beach where we could jump in high waves and walk through pristine white sand so we backtracked just a bit and went to the Kohala Coast.  We found what we wanted/needed. First stop was the Mauna Kea resort which guards access to a public beach on or near its grounds but we were told that the public parking was full (this was 10 a.m.) so no more room for the ordinary folk. No problem. We drove a little down the road, past the very famous Hapuna Beach State Park to a local favorite beach (that several locals including our waitress last night) recommended. The 69 Beach is a little stretch of caramel colored sand with lots of pretty shady trees and a few large black rocks hemmed in on each side by a jutting little cliff. So it created a nice little enclosed beach and waves that hit us from the front and the side (as they bounced off a rocky cliff.

We did drive over to Hapuna Beach to check it out and were dazzled by the color of the water – turquoise by the shore and cobalt blue beyond. Lots of people but lots of room. I’d be happy there – even if the locals think it’s too developed (it even has lifeguards and a snack shack.

On the way back to Honoka’a, we took the Old highway just past Waimea which was like stepping back in time – a two-lane road that felt at times like a country road, winding through green hilly farm and ranch country, lined in parts by huge trees or a jungle-like thicket. The road ended right at Tex drive-in which was on our list for lunch – so we glided right in, parking near two huge horse trailers (complete with horses) and joined the long line at the fast food joint. The best thing by far were the malasadas- heavy fried rectangles of dough dipped in sugar. I dared to try Loco Moco – the hawaiian comfort food which pretty awful. It was a styrophone cup  with rice at the bottom topped with an overdone hamburger, a fried egg and gravy. For some odd reason, they gave me two – needless to say I barely ate one. Dirck had another classic Hawaiian meal – the plate lunch. He did skip the more typical macaroni salad side but did have two thick pieces of roast pork covered in a gloopy brown gravy. Ick,

By 3 p.m. we were in Volcano  the little village just outside the national volcano park –  staying at the lovely Kileau Lodge in a large elegant room with the hawaiian bedspeads I love and lots of wood. The lodge itself is a cool old YMCA lodge – so lots of wood and stone and character. If only the lodge’s restaurant was better. After last night’s meal, the bar was set very high but even without that the meal we had was yukky. too bad because great setting.

Dirck and I did go over to the volcano park to check it out and got to see the smoldering caldrons. Pretty cool. Tomorrow we hike!

 

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Greensburg kansas post-tornado

Greensburg looks better and better each time we drive through. It was devastated by a tornado a few years ago but lots of rebuilding going on. Places to visit include the Green Bean Coffee Co. and Studio Stained Glass and More on Main Street. There’s also a business incubator next door that is producing something called sun chips.

We’re in Dodge City – cold, snowy and sun very very bright.

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Greensburg kansas post-tornado

Greensburg looks better and better each time we drive through. It was devastated by a tornado a few years ago but lots of rebuilding going on. Places to visit include the Green Bean Coffee Co. and Studio Stained Glass and More on Main Street. There’s also a business incubator next door that is producing something called sun chips.

We’re in Dodge City – cold, snowy and sun very very bright.

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Gourmet hot dogs – from Chicago to Des Moines

About a year ago, I found myself in a long line of people stretching down the block from a small brick building that is home to Chicago’s renowned (apparently) hot dog haven…Hot Doug’s (aka “the Encased Meats Emporium and Sausage Superstore.”)  After waiting about 20 minutes on a chilly afternoon and hearing that the wait might be over an hour longer, we left and went to a very good Cuban restaurant nearby.

I’m hoping the wait won’t be as long but the dogs will be as good at Capital Pub & Hot Dog Co., just south of the East Village in Des Moines. From the outside, the place looks like an old roadhouse that matches its gritty industrial neighborhood that is slowly slowly gentrifying.  The pub – located in a 19th century building  originally built for Irish immigrants working on the railroad, the Des Moines Register reports – is selling 100 percent beef dogs (also turkey and vegan dogs) in 13 guises. They’re thick (maybe like my favorite dogs – kosher hot dogs?) – and cooked to order (whatever that means with a hot dog – surely people don’t eat “medium rare dogs”).

One favorite is the Chicago Dog (natch), which sports yellow stuff (mustard, onion), diced tomato sweet relish, sport peppers, pickles and celery. The Mobayashi dog sounds way weird – tempura battered and fried, dressed with spicy mayo, cream cheese, cucumber and, of course, wasabi. I may have to go for the non-hot dog sandwich – the Southside Link, made from locally-made (Graziano’s) Italian sausage with giardiniera pepper relish (which I first ate at a street fair in Chicago, yum) and cheeses.

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A few more hotspots in Chicago’s Logan Square

Here are a few more places that looked great (or were great) in Logan Square – especially for H/M’s next visit from NYC:

– Lula Cafe

– Cafe Con Leche

– wolfbait & B-girls – boutique (which had my all-time favorite cupholder which reads “Your Blog Sucks.” I was tempted to buy for myself.

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minneapolis – top bike-friendly city

When we were in Minneapolis last month – we wished we had our bikes as we watched people gliding along beautiful bike paths along the Mississippi. So no big surprise that it’s at the top of this mag’s bike-friendly cities – although it can get awfully chilly  for bike riding up there.
Minneapolis, the largest city in the “Land of 10,000 Lakes,” is adding 57 new miles of bikeways this year, with plans to add another 183 miles during the next 20 years. With these efforts, Minneapolis nabbed the top spot in Bicycling magazine’s Top 50 list of bike-friendly cities and was designated a Gold-level bicycle-friendly community by the League of American Bicyclists. To learn more about the city’s trails, visit TrailLink.com.

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On tap for Chicago: Sharon Hayes, Logan Square Farmers Market, Clybourne Park, Chocolate etc.

Some ideas for our weekend in Chicago:

– The Logan Square Farmers Market Sunday from 10-2. The Congress Theater Lobby 2135 N. Milwaukee Avenue

– Clybourne Park, last weekend to see the Pulitzer Prize winning play at The Steppenwolf Theater.

– “Ann” – a play about former Texas Gov. Ann Richards Sunday through Dec. 4 at Bank of America Theatre, 18 W. Monroe St.; $20-$85 at 800-775-2000 and broadwayinchicago.com

– The exhibit all about Chocolate at the Field Museum. (From the museum website:Get a better understanding of where this sweet treat comes from — hint: it doesn’t grow in the candy store — when the popular exhibition returns to the museum, allowing visitors to explore the relationship we have with chocolate and its rainforest roots. Learn about the plant, products, history and culture through science and pop culture.)

– Sharon Hayes exhibit in the modern wing at the Chicago Art Institute. I don’t really understand what it is but that makes me even more interested. Something to do with performance art, video installations and free speech.  (From the institute’s website:The performance artist’s first solo show at a major museum in the United States features three recent moving-image and photo-based installations exploring the role of speech in personal and political contexts.) (more below)

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– This looks incredibly cool – alas we won’t be around when it’s happening.

Twilight Tour

What: A guided tour ($15) at the Driehaus Museum of how Chicagoans might have entertained after-hours in the late 1800s

Where: 40 E. Erie St.

When: 6:30 p.m. on the first and third Tuesday each month; the next tour is Nov. 15.

More information: 312-482-8933, ext. 21; driehausmuseum.org

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More on Sharon Hayes: From the art institute’s website:

The performance artist’s first solo show at a major museum in the United States features three recent moving-image and photo-based installations exploring the role of speech in personal and political contexts.

November 10, 2011–March 11, 2012
Galleries 182–184
Member Preview: November 9, 10:30–5:00

Overview: Over the past 15 years, American artist Sharon Hayes has been probing how speech—both public and private—intersects with politics, history, personal identity, desire, and love through her performances and multimedia installations. …she has tackled a diversity of issues and topics including the 1968 Democratic Convention, Patty Hearst and the Symbionese Liberation Army, and the wars in Afghanistan and Iraq.

This presentation, the first solo museum exhibition of the artist’s work in the United States …includes several recent media and object-based installations as well as a live performance. 

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Things to do in Hawaii – advice from a friend who lived there.

 

 

Here are recommendations on things to do in Hawaii from a friend who used to live there:

 

Big Island

Akaka Falls

Volcano Nat’l Park

CUTE LITTLE ZOO ON HILO SIDE

BAY WHERE CAPTAIN COOK DIED –  NEAR TOWN OF CAPTAIN COOK

CITY OF REFUGE – ON THE WATER; STATE PARK;  GOOD  SWIMMING AROUND IN NEARBY BEACH

Honolulu

Bishop Museum

Academy of Art  — (GOT TO MAKE RESERVS IN ADVANCE FOR LUNCH THERE)

Iolani Palace

Chinatown

Waikiki Aquarium  ( very small,  right near/on the beach)

Hanauma Bay

The drive from Hanauma Bay to wherever the road turns away from directly by the water – before Waimanalo

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