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Iconic beach, loco moco, malasadas and an active volcano – glorious Hawaii

My sun bunny companion was yearning for a real beach where we could jump in high waves and walk through pristine white sand so we backtracked just a bit and went to the Kohala Coast.  We found what we wanted/needed. First stop was the Mauna Kea resort which guards access to a public beach on or near its grounds but we were told that the public parking was full (this was 10 a.m.) so no more room for the ordinary folk. No problem. We drove a little down the road, past the very famous Hapuna Beach State Park to a local favorite beach (that several locals including our waitress last night) recommended. The 69 Beach is a little stretch of caramel colored sand with lots of pretty shady trees and a few large black rocks hemmed in on each side by a jutting little cliff. So it created a nice little enclosed beach and waves that hit us from the front and the side (as they bounced off a rocky cliff.

We did drive over to Hapuna Beach to check it out and were dazzled by the color of the water – turquoise by the shore and cobalt blue beyond. Lots of people but lots of room. I’d be happy there – even if the locals think it’s too developed (it even has lifeguards and a snack shack.

On the way back to Honoka’a, we took the Old highway just past Waimea which was like stepping back in time – a two-lane road that felt at times like a country road, winding through green hilly farm and ranch country, lined in parts by huge trees or a jungle-like thicket. The road ended right at Tex drive-in which was on our list for lunch – so we glided right in, parking near two huge horse trailers (complete with horses) and joined the long line at the fast food joint. The best thing by far were the malasadas- heavy fried rectangles of dough dipped in sugar. I dared to try Loco Moco – the hawaiian comfort food which pretty awful. It was a styrophone cup  with rice at the bottom topped with an overdone hamburger, a fried egg and gravy. For some odd reason, they gave me two – needless to say I barely ate one. Dirck had another classic Hawaiian meal – the plate lunch. He did skip the more typical macaroni salad side but did have two thick pieces of roast pork covered in a gloopy brown gravy. Ick,

By 3 p.m. we were in Volcano  the little village just outside the national volcano park –  staying at the lovely Kileau Lodge in a large elegant room with the hawaiian bedspeads I love and lots of wood. The lodge itself is a cool old YMCA lodge – so lots of wood and stone and character. If only the lodge’s restaurant was better. After last night’s meal, the bar was set very high but even without that the meal we had was yukky. too bad because great setting.

Dirck and I did go over to the volcano park to check it out and got to see the smoldering caldrons. Pretty cool. Tomorrow we hike!

 

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Greensburg kansas post-tornado

Greensburg looks better and better each time we drive through. It was devastated by a tornado a few years ago but lots of rebuilding going on. Places to visit include the Green Bean Coffee Co. and Studio Stained Glass and More on Main Street. There’s also a business incubator next door that is producing something called sun chips.

We’re in Dodge City – cold, snowy and sun very very bright.

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Greensburg kansas post-tornado

Greensburg looks better and better each time we drive through. It was devastated by a tornado a few years ago but lots of rebuilding going on. Places to visit include the Green Bean Coffee Co. and Studio Stained Glass and More on Main Street. There’s also a business incubator next door that is producing something called sun chips.

We’re in Dodge City – cold, snowy and sun very very bright.

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Gourmet hot dogs – from Chicago to Des Moines

About a year ago, I found myself in a long line of people stretching down the block from a small brick building that is home to Chicago’s renowned (apparently) hot dog haven…Hot Doug’s (aka “the Encased Meats Emporium and Sausage Superstore.”)  After waiting about 20 minutes on a chilly afternoon and hearing that the wait might be over an hour longer, we left and went to a very good Cuban restaurant nearby.

I’m hoping the wait won’t be as long but the dogs will be as good at Capital Pub & Hot Dog Co., just south of the East Village in Des Moines. From the outside, the place looks like an old roadhouse that matches its gritty industrial neighborhood that is slowly slowly gentrifying.  The pub – located in a 19th century building  originally built for Irish immigrants working on the railroad, the Des Moines Register reports – is selling 100 percent beef dogs (also turkey and vegan dogs) in 13 guises. They’re thick (maybe like my favorite dogs – kosher hot dogs?) – and cooked to order (whatever that means with a hot dog – surely people don’t eat “medium rare dogs”).

One favorite is the Chicago Dog (natch), which sports yellow stuff (mustard, onion), diced tomato sweet relish, sport peppers, pickles and celery. The Mobayashi dog sounds way weird – tempura battered and fried, dressed with spicy mayo, cream cheese, cucumber and, of course, wasabi. I may have to go for the non-hot dog sandwich – the Southside Link, made from locally-made (Graziano’s) Italian sausage with giardiniera pepper relish (which I first ate at a street fair in Chicago, yum) and cheeses.

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A few more hotspots in Chicago’s Logan Square

Here are a few more places that looked great (or were great) in Logan Square – especially for H/M’s next visit from NYC:

– Lula Cafe

– Cafe Con Leche

– wolfbait & B-girls – boutique (which had my all-time favorite cupholder which reads “Your Blog Sucks.” I was tempted to buy for myself.

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minneapolis – top bike-friendly city

When we were in Minneapolis last month – we wished we had our bikes as we watched people gliding along beautiful bike paths along the Mississippi. So no big surprise that it’s at the top of this mag’s bike-friendly cities – although it can get awfully chilly  for bike riding up there.
Minneapolis, the largest city in the “Land of 10,000 Lakes,” is adding 57 new miles of bikeways this year, with plans to add another 183 miles during the next 20 years. With these efforts, Minneapolis nabbed the top spot in Bicycling magazine’s Top 50 list of bike-friendly cities and was designated a Gold-level bicycle-friendly community by the League of American Bicyclists. To learn more about the city’s trails, visit TrailLink.com.

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On tap for Chicago: Sharon Hayes, Logan Square Farmers Market, Clybourne Park, Chocolate etc.

Some ideas for our weekend in Chicago:

– The Logan Square Farmers Market Sunday from 10-2. The Congress Theater Lobby 2135 N. Milwaukee Avenue

– Clybourne Park, last weekend to see the Pulitzer Prize winning play at The Steppenwolf Theater.

– “Ann” – a play about former Texas Gov. Ann Richards Sunday through Dec. 4 at Bank of America Theatre, 18 W. Monroe St.; $20-$85 at 800-775-2000 and broadwayinchicago.com

– The exhibit all about Chocolate at the Field Museum. (From the museum website:Get a better understanding of where this sweet treat comes from — hint: it doesn’t grow in the candy store — when the popular exhibition returns to the museum, allowing visitors to explore the relationship we have with chocolate and its rainforest roots. Learn about the plant, products, history and culture through science and pop culture.)

– Sharon Hayes exhibit in the modern wing at the Chicago Art Institute. I don’t really understand what it is but that makes me even more interested. Something to do with performance art, video installations and free speech.  (From the institute’s website:The performance artist’s first solo show at a major museum in the United States features three recent moving-image and photo-based installations exploring the role of speech in personal and political contexts.) (more below)

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– This looks incredibly cool – alas we won’t be around when it’s happening.

Twilight Tour

What: A guided tour ($15) at the Driehaus Museum of how Chicagoans might have entertained after-hours in the late 1800s

Where: 40 E. Erie St.

When: 6:30 p.m. on the first and third Tuesday each month; the next tour is Nov. 15.

More information: 312-482-8933, ext. 21; driehausmuseum.org

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More on Sharon Hayes: From the art institute’s website:

The performance artist’s first solo show at a major museum in the United States features three recent moving-image and photo-based installations exploring the role of speech in personal and political contexts.

November 10, 2011–March 11, 2012
Galleries 182–184
Member Preview: November 9, 10:30–5:00

Overview: Over the past 15 years, American artist Sharon Hayes has been probing how speech—both public and private—intersects with politics, history, personal identity, desire, and love through her performances and multimedia installations. …she has tackled a diversity of issues and topics including the 1968 Democratic Convention, Patty Hearst and the Symbionese Liberation Army, and the wars in Afghanistan and Iraq.

This presentation, the first solo museum exhibition of the artist’s work in the United States …includes several recent media and object-based installations as well as a live performance. 

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Things to do in Hawaii – advice from a friend who lived there.

 

 

Here are recommendations on things to do in Hawaii from a friend who used to live there:

 

Big Island

Akaka Falls

Volcano Nat’l Park

CUTE LITTLE ZOO ON HILO SIDE

BAY WHERE CAPTAIN COOK DIED –  NEAR TOWN OF CAPTAIN COOK

CITY OF REFUGE – ON THE WATER; STATE PARK;  GOOD  SWIMMING AROUND IN NEARBY BEACH

Honolulu

Bishop Museum

Academy of Art  — (GOT TO MAKE RESERVS IN ADVANCE FOR LUNCH THERE)

Iolani Palace

Chinatown

Waikiki Aquarium  ( very small,  right near/on the beach)

Hanauma Bay

The drive from Hanauma Bay to wherever the road turns away from directly by the water – before Waimanalo

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Amazing views and vertigo at Guthrie Theater in Minneapolis

We finally visited the new (okay five-year-old) Guthrie Theater last weekend during a visit to the Twin Cities. What an astonishing place. Designed by Frenchman Jean Nouvel’s (2008 winner of the Pritzker Prize)  its odd-looking exterior is a  rounded cobalt highrise (echoing the nearby historic flour mills downtown) with a protruding platform that sticks out towards the Mississippi River like a bridge lopped off in mid stride.  As suggested, we took the very narrow steep elevator that reminded me of an elevator in the London Tube system to the fifth floor and walked out on the platform which we had all to ourselves on a quiet Saturday morning in late October.  Astonishing views of the River,  St. Anthony Falls and the Stone Arch Bridge, bright sunshine bouncing off the blue glass, and I felt like an ant whose antenna had been ripped off. Dizzy. Disoriented. Dazzled.

Inside, the strange interior – soaring spaces with cut out windows offer very precise views of the river and city and a lovely green landscaped park dotted with fiery red-leafed trees – also had me feeling woozy. We rode the elevator up to the ninth floor for another dazzling view, this time through huge panes of yellow-green tinted windows. Interesting how the glass totally changed the view we’d seen several floors below. We also walked around the curving space lining one of the theaters and through the sleek darkened bars on the fifth floor.

Building tours are available the first Saturday of the month. Next time, we’ll go to a performance there at one of the complex’s three stages (the “thrust stage” and Shakespeare seems good idea.)

for photos and more info: see http://www.guthrietheater.org/about_guthrie/our_spaces

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Adding to list for Hawaii’s Big Island: Polulu Valley and town of Hawi

A fellow blogger recommends the Polulu Valley in the northern tip of the Big Island. I’ve checked it out and definitely on our list now, thank you very much.

Here’s her thoughts: Polulu Valley….we are so glad when we added it to our things to do!! The Highway 270 up in North Kohala dead ends into this beautiful valley lookout. You can hike down the cliff to beautiful black sands with some green in it. Not very crowded at all. We wish we had brought lunch with us so we could just enjoy sitting by the water! If you google it, you can see some great pictures of it.

 

And here’s what Lets Go Hawaii has to say:

Polulu Valley, where North Kohala’s main artery, Hwy-270, comes to a dead end, is the last of the chain of inaccessible valleys, and for the moment is every bit as pristine as Waipio. The fear of tsunami, which led the Hawaiians to abandon these once densely populated valleys, is probably their best defense against the rapacity of the developers.

The morning is the best time to visit this picturesque perch overlooking a stretch of sea cliffs. Pololu valley is located at the end of Highway 270 in North Kohala.  On your drive up Highway 270, be sure to stop for a look-see and a wonderful bite to eat in the quaint town of Hawi. The highway ends at the picturesque lookout for the Pololu Valley.  At the top you can look down onto the Pololu Valley and a beautiful black sand beach.

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