Category Archives: Minneapolis

Nordic in Minneapolis

Not sure we’ll get to Minneapolis again as soon as I like but when we do, these suggestions from Travel + Leisure are worth trying:

Bachelor Farmer – with the city’s first rooftop garden

The American Swedish Institute’s Fika, serving open-faced sandwiches (smorgas) (which looks a bit like the cafeteria at IKEA)

Union – run by a former staffer of the famous Copenhagen restaurant Noma.

FIKA, the Cafe at ASI

 “More than a museum cafe, this bright spot is a serious attempt to integrate local ingredients in dishes that are faithful to the tradition of “fika,” an institution in Sweden.”New York Times

FIKA is the American Swedish Institute’s new Nordic-inspired café inside the Nelson Cultural Center.

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Hanging out in the Minneapolis airport..great places to eat

We were not looking forward to our three hour layover in the Minneapolis airport en route to Phoenix from Des Moines but it turned out to be better than expected. We found a surprisingly good restaurant and decided to splurge since it was a Saturday night and we were stuck in an airport. And by splurge I mean paying $10 for a fancy sandwich with top-notch ingredients as opposed to $5 at Subway. We ate at a wine bar called Surdyk’s Flight in the “airport mall,”  which  has small plates, sandwiches, salads and paninis served in a sleek alcove with a few booths, each with a flat screen TV showing a movie with the sound off and English subtitles. Our sandwiches were excellent, served on crusty baguettes from what we were told is one of the best bakeries in the twin cities, Rustica. The restaurant itself is an offshoot of a well known wine shop in Minneapolis. (Hence the word “flight” in the restaurant’s name.)

One sandwich was salami with a thick slab of fresh mozzarella, aoili, greens. The other was Applewood turkey with thick slice of Manchego cheese, aoili, quince jam. My husband had one of his favorite beers, Bell’s from Kalamazoo., Michigan. The place even had two of Iowa’s finer products, La Quercia prosciutto and Templeton Rye. We shared a Rustica ginger molasses cookie for dessert and all toll managed to easily kill over an hour at dinner.

On the way back to Des Moines, with another three hours to kill in the Minneapolis airport, we ate at the super sleek Japanese sushi and noodle place Shoyu in Concourse G. The food was really good (and pricey) – we had very crispy chicken and mushroom wontons with cilantro and smoked chili glaze and shared an entree –  Tokyo style pork ramen with hard boiled egg , wakame, memma, and togarashi (none of these items were familiar except the egg) and a Rush River Amber Ale from River Falls, Wisconsin. We ordered on an Ipad (not the one I am typing on now) and watched chefs cook in an open kitchen. Brave new world here. The waiter told us the new restaurants in Concourse G are part of the airport’s overhaul last August and some were conceived with the help of well-known Twin Cities chefs.  Shoyu, for example, was the offspring of Tanpopo noodle house in St. Paul’s warehouse district.

Also in the foodie flyer’s heaven of Concourse G, we  found Mimosa, an upscale French restaurant, and Minnibar, a cafe that looked like a set from the Jetsons (serving “globally inspired sandwiches created by Chef Andrew Zimmern). There also is a new high-design upscale “food hall” in Concourse G (and other mini-halls elsewhere) that is markedly different in appearance and offerings from the old-style “food court” that still exists in the airport (along with fast food chain outposts sprinkled here and there including Starbucks, A&W, Subway, Godfather’s Pizza, Quiznos Sub, DQ, Chick-fil-A, Sharro ).  While the courts have the usual Chinese and Mexican fast food, the halls are sleek and cleanly designed with little areas selling upscale fro yo, lots of fresh fruit, eccentric assortments of candy (goo goo clusters from Nashville but alas no Hi-Chews, from Japan), cleverly packaged travel items, from nausea pills to backpacks.

Of course we were looking for some humble popcorn after sharing our pricy entree and appetizer at Shoyu. No such luck.

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Taking the bus to Laguardia – and nabbing an earlier flight home in Minneapolis

I paid $2.25 (the price of a bus ride) to get to Laguardia airport this afternoon which is much better than a $40 cab ride – not as fast of course, but not as long as I feared. It took me an hour – from the time I picked up the M60 bus at 106th and Broadway to my arrival at Laguardia’s Terminal C – and frankly seemed faster than the express bus I rode into the city (for $12.50).

I had a three hour layover in Minneapolis so of course my arrival and departing gates were minutes away from each other (as opposed to my outbound flight when I had 37 minutes to get from one end of the airport to the other.) Noticing that there was an earlier flight to Des Moines (at 7:15 vs. 9:30 p.m.) I went to the gate for the earlier flight to see if I could get on. There was room but Delta wanted to charge me $50 (which United wasn’t going to do when I tried to do the same thing a week ago in Boston). So I said no thanks but then the Delta person saw that my 9:30 flight was overbooked so she waived the $50 fee. So here I am home – although my bag won’t arrive until 11 p.m. So I guess it pays to ask and stand your ground….at least sometimes!

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Filed under airline fees, Minneapolis, New York City

To check out: the St. James Hotel in Red Wing, Minn. – ghosts and all

Friends spent a few days earlier this week exploring the area around Red Wing Minnesota, and recommend the St. James Hotel, where they stayed.  Good to know. In the recent past, we’ve done more exploring just to the east of the Mississippi River in Wisconsin, north of LaCrosse, Wi. in towns we really enjoyed including Alma, Stockholm and Pepin. Maybe it’s time to do a little more exploring on the Minnesota side.

When I googled the St James, the word “haunted” came up – apparently the place has a reputation for housing ghosts! More below from a 2008 story I found:

Ghosts linger in Southern Minnesota

Heather Edwards
staff writer

Armed with a copy of Christopher Larsen’s “Ghosts of Southeastern Minnesota,” I headed south to catch the last of the autumn colors and get into the Halloween spirit.

There are many supposedly haunted spots in Minnesota, and the southern part of the state is no exception. I decided to check out some of the ghostly spots; on the morning of my day trip, the skies were appropriately spooky, with fog enveloping the car as we drove down Highway 61.

My first stop was the St. James Hotel, 406 Main St. in Red Wing. According to “Ghosts of Southeastern Minnesota,” the hotel was built in 1875 on the remains of an Indian burial ground and has a long history of ghostly occurrences. For example, a new employee once walked into her office and found a note, written in childlike script, that read, “Who are you?” Later, she would find another note that read, “I know who you are.”

Was this a trick played by a fellow employee? Possibly. But the employee who found the notes kept sensitive information inside her office, and so the office was always locked. She was only one of a few employees who had a key.

In addition, chefs working in the hotel’s basement have seen faces – no bodies, just faces – staring at them. Housekeepers have seen something move in a nearby room, but when they investigate, nothing is there.

Guests have been affected by the strange happenings as well. In fact, several guests have left in the middle of the night because the blinds on their windows were flapping on their own accord.


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minneapolis – top bike-friendly city

When we were in Minneapolis last month – we wished we had our bikes as we watched people gliding along beautiful bike paths along the Mississippi. So no big surprise that it’s at the top of this mag’s bike-friendly cities – although it can get awfully chilly  for bike riding up there.
Minneapolis, the largest city in the “Land of 10,000 Lakes,” is adding 57 new miles of bikeways this year, with plans to add another 183 miles during the next 20 years. With these efforts, Minneapolis nabbed the top spot in Bicycling magazine’s Top 50 list of bike-friendly cities and was designated a Gold-level bicycle-friendly community by the League of American Bicyclists. To learn more about the city’s trails, visit TrailLink.com.

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Revisting old Twin Cities favorites – Lucia’s, Walker Art Center, U of M Gehry Museum

We did visit some old favorites last weekend in the Twin Cities that didn’t disappoint. They include:

Lucia’s, the venerable Uptown restaurant, was packed on a Saturday night, as expected so we were glad to have booked a table well in advance. It’s a cozy unpretentious place that prides itself in a constantly changing seasonal menu using fresh local ingredients whenever possible. One mild complaint – both our soup and a main course arrived luke-warm bordering on cold. They were quickly warmed up. And the desert – an updated version of German Sweet Chocolate cake – was too sweet and heavy. (The cake was more like chewy macaroon and the frosting more like denser chocolate.) But the appetizers and main courses were beautifully done. We had a cup of a white bean soup with vegetables and chorizo; an amazing ravioli filled with caramelized cauliflower with thick bits of bacon on a bed of arugula, a very tasty baked chicken dish served with perfectly cooked brussel sprouts, chewy mushrooms and a bread pudding; and a leg of lamb in calvados with sliced apples and braised vegetables.

– I’ve never really gotten used to the Walker Art Center’s new building – feels sort of disjointed and without a center and the graphics show left me cold. But always good to check in there – and at the sculpture garden across teh street.

– The University of Minnesota’s Art Museum has a new wing also designed by Frank Gehry, who designed the rest of the place. It’s a crazy shiny steel-clad building (although there is some rust…) that looks a bit like a crumpled up beer can. Inside the space is light and airy and all the better for displaying an eclectic collection of contemporary art.

– We took the drive along the river from U of M to St. Paul – absolutely gorgeous on a crisp fall day with blazing autumn leaves. Wished we were riding our bikes!

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Twin Cities bakeries/sandwich shops – the good and not as good

We did the grand tour of quirky independent bakeries and sandwich shops in the Twin Cities last weekend and here’s how they stack up:

Cheeky Monkey, a sandwich shop on Selby Avenue in the Cathedral Hill neighborhood of St. Paul (i.e. just west of the Cathedral downtown) –  This is a keeper. Lively vibe, good service, tasty food, interesting neighborhood – just down the street from Garrison Keillor’s fantastic Common Good Books. We shared a Muffaletta which was perhaps not the most authentic but still substantial sandwich with a zing served with very good homemade potato chips.

Patisserie 46, (46th and Grand, a bakery in southwest Minneapolis’ “emerging Kingfield neighborhood” (according to the NYTimes.) We should have eaten lunch here. The sandwiches looked great – one I spotted was thick slabs of real-meat turkey served inside a hearty baguette. Next time. The pastries also fancy and delicate. We got some croissants and a very good olive sourdough bread to go.

Be’wiched, in the warehouse district of Minneapolis on Washington Ave., this sandwich shop and deli didn’t have the warm funky environment of Cheeky Monkey. It had more of a sleek, clean vibe which wasn’t as welcoming. The sandwiches – allegedly among the nation’s best according to a prominent food mag – were a little too strange for us.  The Roast Beef (on ciabatta served with horseradish, havarti and onion jam) was better than the tuna confit (real pieces of fish/not tuna from a can served with black olives, cucumber, aioli, preserved lemon on Focaccia), a good idea but strange tasting and pricey at $9.50. Four tiny containers with different side salads came with our sandwiches and we tried but didn’t finish any of them. Oh well.

Bars Bakery – This place, down the street from the Cheeky Monkey on Selby was closed, but sounds like it’s worth a visit. It specializes in the classic dessert bar, which is apparently a Minnesota staple (our b&b served some at breakfast come to think of it, one made of lingonberries.)

Evelo’s B&B – Come to think of it, some of the best pastries we had were at this Lowry Hill B&B near Uptown, the Lake of the Isles, the Walker Art Center and downtown where we like to stay. I don’t know which they made and which they bought but we had wonderful brioche (soft, sugar-dusted muffin-shaped pastry with dollop of vanilla custard inside), kringle (I think), and lefse  (a Norwegian pastry that’s a piece of dough/flatbread slathered with butter, honey and cinnamon then rolled and cut into bite-size pieces. Tasty. Fortunately it wasn’t served with that other Norwegian specialty, lutefisk.)

Also on my list which we didn’t try:

Sweets Bakeshop near Patisserie 46 and the Salty Tart Bakery in Minneapolis.

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Amazing views and vertigo at Guthrie Theater in Minneapolis

We finally visited the new (okay five-year-old) Guthrie Theater last weekend during a visit to the Twin Cities. What an astonishing place. Designed by Frenchman Jean Nouvel’s (2008 winner of the Pritzker Prize)  its odd-looking exterior is a  rounded cobalt highrise (echoing the nearby historic flour mills downtown) with a protruding platform that sticks out towards the Mississippi River like a bridge lopped off in mid stride.  As suggested, we took the very narrow steep elevator that reminded me of an elevator in the London Tube system to the fifth floor and walked out on the platform which we had all to ourselves on a quiet Saturday morning in late October.  Astonishing views of the River,  St. Anthony Falls and the Stone Arch Bridge, bright sunshine bouncing off the blue glass, and I felt like an ant whose antenna had been ripped off. Dizzy. Disoriented. Dazzled.

Inside, the strange interior – soaring spaces with cut out windows offer very precise views of the river and city and a lovely green landscaped park dotted with fiery red-leafed trees – also had me feeling woozy. We rode the elevator up to the ninth floor for another dazzling view, this time through huge panes of yellow-green tinted windows. Interesting how the glass totally changed the view we’d seen several floors below. We also walked around the curving space lining one of the theaters and through the sleek darkened bars on the fifth floor.

Building tours are available the first Saturday of the month. Next time, we’ll go to a performance there at one of the complex’s three stages (the “thrust stage” and Shakespeare seems good idea.)

for photos and more info: see http://www.guthrietheater.org/about_guthrie/our_spaces

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New places to check out in Minneapolis this weekend


We are off to Minneapolis this weekend and here is what’s on my list to check out:

The new wing of the Frank Gehry-designed art museum of the U of Minnesota campus. (Gehry also designed the new wing.) One complication – the U of Iowa/U of Minnesota football game at 2:30. Guess we’ll try to go to the museum after the game starts.

– The graphic arts show at the Walker Art Center (and as always, we’ll revisit the sculpture garden across the street.)

–  A reportedly great new bakery in an “emerging” Kingfield neighborhood: Patisserie 46 4552 Grand Ave. S. Maybe check out Cafe Ena, 4601 Grand Avenue South, a Latin fusion restaurant, or Saffron Restaurant and Lounge, 123 N. 3rd street for some Middle Eastern grub. See review (below)that accompanied it’s “Best Middle Eastern Food” award from a local magazine:

And we’ll do some of our old standbys in the Uptown area around Hennepin Ave. where we usually base ourselves:

– Stay at Evelo’s  Evelo’s Bed & Breakfast 2301 Bryant Avenue South in the Lowery Hill East Neighborhood. From the outside, this 1897 three-story house house is unexceptional. Inside, it’s remarkable – a well-preserved Victorian home with original woodwork, period furnishings including lots of Tiffany stained glass lamps and lovely dining room with reproduction wall paper designed or inspired by Charles Rennie Mackintosh, the famous Scottish architect and designer.

– Dinner at Lucia’s, 1432 W. 31st Street. (Apparently it now has a Dog Bar…not sure what that’s all about.) We m

Most Americans think of Middle Eastern food as hummus and shish kebab. But Middle Eastern countries such as Syria, Iran, Israel, Iraq, Egypt, and Turkey have their own distinctive cuisines, a blend of culinary traditions that evolved over centuries of migration and war. Saffron is a fitting place to savor the diversity of the Middle East, as the restaurant features flavors of northern Africa, the Persian Gulf, and the Arabian Peninsula. Everything on the menu, from the giant beans laced with dill and olive oil to the sweet and savory chicken bisteeya in flaky phyllo dough, is carefully prepared and faithful to the ingredients’ flavors. Take the lamb brain with tomato confit. The savory richness of the brain, which is accompanied by a whiff of organ-meat fragrance reminiscent of foie gras, is balanced by the sweet preserved tomato and garlic. A touch of parsley elevates the flavor and rounds out the dish to perfection. Saffron has a fantastic cocktail program, featuring original drinks made with infused liquors: Spices such as white and Szechuan peppers, mejdool dates, and chamomile transform familiar spirits like gin, whiskey, and brandy into veritable elixirs. They say the history of a land is written in its food. Saffron is a reminder of how complex the Middle East can be.

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Filed under Minneapolis, museum exhibit, THE ARTS

A b&b in Minneapolis – stick with tried and true or try something new?

We visit Minneapolis every couple of years and have had very good luck  staying at Evelo’s bed & breakfast, a low-key but charming house in a good location near the Walker Art Center. But for our next trip in late October, we’re toying with the idea of staying somewhere else – the Wales House near the U of Minnesota campus, in part because it may be available when Evelo’s is not and also just to try something new (always a temptation.)

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