Category Archives: RECREATION

Ag tours near Panama City and bringing rum home

A reader wanted more information on the agricultural tour we  took outside Panama City. So maybe others do too. We visited a cashew farm and a sugar cane factory in the Province of Cocle near the towns of Nata and Aguadulce , about 90 minutes west of Panama City. The cashew farm is part of the Panafruit Company. The owner is organizing an agro-tourism circuit in southwestern Cocle including companies producing salt, sugar and shrimp, for tourists interested in tropical farming and food production. For more info see: http://www.panama-guide.com/article.php/20070617151703712

The reader suggested visiting the Abuelo/Sec distillery (southwest of where we were, in the Azada Pennisula, in the town of Pese) which I gather produces rum. I just checked and this is the brand of rum my husband bought (for $6.50 a bottle) at the duty-free in Panama City. The distillery may also make seco, a sugar-can-distilled alcohol that I gather tastes like vodka. (Add milk and ice and you have Panama’s most famous drink, mostly in rural areas. We didn’t try – it reminded me of a White Russian- but my husband did grow fond of Balboa beer.)

One word to the wise: remember that if you buy Rum or any other liquid more than three ounces at a foreign airport – and are making a connecting flight in the U.S. – you’ll have to pack it in your checked luggage (at least for the flight within the U.S.)  Otherwise – as we learned the hard way – security will confiscate it from you when you board your connecting flight in the U.S. (In our case, my husband rushed back to get his soon-to-be-rechecked luggage so he could pack the rum inside.  He didn’t end up doing this. Instead, a helpful airport ambassador boxed it for him and put it checked it as a second piece of luggage, at no extra cost.)

 

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Tucson – for future reference

For the second year in a row, we haven’t taken our annual trip to Tucson to see my dad – just got pulled in different directions. But my brother and his wife are there and report that they’ve found a good new cheap Mexican restaurant – BK’s – downtown – which specializes on Sonora Hot Dogs and Carne Asada (neither of which sound great right now as I’m still recovering from dining in Panama). They also were looking for a hike we did together four years ago and report that the trail head is – as we thought – just north of AJ’s fancy food market on Campbell and East Skyline Drive.

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Filed under DINING, hiking, Tucson

Panama – from a cashew farm to Panamanian dancing

Very full day which began at 8 a.m. in a minibus full of game-for-anything Iowa farmers, who set off to visit some Panamanian farms about 120 miles west of Panama City on – as Panamanians would say – “the Pacific side.” The ride was bumpier and longer than expected – almost three hours – but we did get to see stuff your everyday tourist doesn’t. In this case, first stop was a cashew “factory” – a very small operation. We learned that cashews grow on trees, in the form of a fleshy, fist -sized creamy yellowish-orange fruit with a cashew-shaped shell-encased nut growing out of the bottom. Very strange. Our host – who owns the company – picked one of these fruits for us to taste – and then we walked through a very small rudimentary “factory” where we watched a few young men working to shell the cashews, using a foot-pedal operated machine, almost like a vise, to crack open the oily shell and pick out the nuts. These guys do this for hours on end for pay that, if I understood the guide correctly, amounts to $1.25 per hour. Yeesh.

From there we went to a sugar cane operation – driving our bus down rutted dirt roads with high fields of leafy sugar can stalks on either side and the occasional field of onions. As a fire burned in the distance – sugar cane fields are best harvested after they’ve been set afire, we learned – we watched a guy operate a combine-of-sorts to cut the cane. And our guide took what looked like thick sticks, shaved them with a knife until they were a yellowish core which – amazingly enough – tasted wonderfully sweet with odd woody texture. Sugar in the raw!

We stopped on the way back at a remarkable restaurant that was an homage to horses – I’ll try to get the name – and sat in big wooden chairs at long wooden tables with a vaulted ceiling made of rough-hewn wood beams and what looked an awful lot like thousands of pieces of sugar cane but probably wasn’t. We had ceviche, rice and a creamy chicken dish (always these heavy dishes on very hot days) and salad.

Tonight we went with another couple into Panama City to the famous Tinajas Restaurant – okay very touristy but such fun. We ate ceviche (can’t get enough of the stuff) and jumbo shrimp in coconut sauce and drank pina coladas and Balboa beer and best of all, watched a floor show of Panamanian dancers accompanied by percussion players (bongos, maraches, accordion, a tiny female singer who could really belt out those traditional songs.) Great performers – one of whom pulled me up to dance with him, which was a kick – and interesting that the crowd included not just American tourists but what appeared to be many Panamanians and/or people from other Latin American countries.  At the end of the evening,we met two adorable college girls from the Massachusetts Maritime Academy who are doing an intern here  – working at the Panama Canal. They’re studying to work for the port authority – and have gotten to board some of the massive vessel, one from Turkey, another from Russia, that crawl through the canal. How cool is that? Makes me feel like a young carefree explorer again – which isn’t something I’ve felt in some time.

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New Central Iowa bike route…spring can’t come soon enough

The DM Register suggests this “new route” which isn’t completely new – and that we’ve tried portions of:

Start in Collins on the Heart of Iowa trail and ride east to Maxwell and then Slater – that’s 20.5 miles (and at least the part by Slater that we rode on is gravel and out in open farmland so windy). Then pick up the recently-opened High Trestle Trail  for 12 miles to Woodward going over the incredibly cool new pedestrian bridge high above the Des Moines River (hence the name of the trail….we did this last summer when the pedestrian bridge was almost completed. It officially opens in April).  From Woodward, ride a few miles on County Rd. R3/aka 130th street through Bouton to Perry, home of the famous Hotel Pattee. Worth a try. Not sure of the total mileage of that.

In Slater, the Take Down Bar & Grill on Main Street is popular with cyclists and has an outdoor patio, sometimes with live music.

 

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“New” places to go in 2011

For future reference, here’s what I’ve culled from the NYT’s Travel Section story on 41 places to go in 2011.

Places I’ve already been: San Juan Islands, Wash; London; Milan; Olympic Park, Wash (went there on our honeymoon…along with the San Juan Islands. Would like to return to both!);  Miami;  Salonika, Greece (I called it  Thessaloniki);  Kosovo (I drove through then-Yugoslavia on the Magic Bus in 1982 and vowed to return on foot.)

Places I want to go: Park City, Utah; Loreto, Mexico; Oahu (going to Hawaii next January!); Sopot and Gdansk, Poland (Two terrific students from Gdansk stayed with in 2009 and my son visited them a few months later.  Also on my list – Krakow!); Pingyao, China (first I’ve heard of it but  ancient Ming architecture sounds like a must-see); ditto Hangzhou, China; Ezurum, Turkey (been to Turkey but not that far west.)

Places not on the top of my list: Iceland, Republic of Georgia; Cali, Columbia; Tozeur, Tunisia (not right now, given the political instability); ditto Iraqi Kurdistan.

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off-beat culinary bike tours – Chicago

Just read (in my son’s Northwestern alumni mag) about a fun way to experience Chicago – by bike, visiting various food outposts.  A Northwestern Alum  opened Fork and the Road, which offers these tours – after a test run with a giro del gelato (you guessed it – a bike tour that braked at five gelaterias in the Windy City). From the website (www.forkandtheroad.com) it looks like the tours are over for the year.  Here’s hoping they start up again next spring. The 2010 tours’ themes included dumplings, international BBQ, and Mediterranean Cruise. (Don’t see mention of the gelato tour…)

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Filed under Adventure travel, bike trails, Chicago, DINING

Other issues when picking a hotel in a foreign land…beyond cost and location

Other issues beyond the more pedestrian ones of cost and location when trying to pick, from a great distance (say the distance between Des Moines, Iowa and Boquete, Panama),  a hotel/inn/B&B to stay at in a foreign country:

– SIZE  – Is it a better bet to stay somewhere with 16 rooms then somewhere with one room? Or three rooms? That’s the options we’re looking at for the moment in Boquete.

– AMBIANCE – Do we want the relatively bustling-with-people-and-activity “eco-lodge” or the secluded inn that bills itself as perfect for honeymooners (which we are not)?

– AUTHENTICITY – Do we want the hotel that seems to be run by locals rather than the inn run by expats who have set up shop in paradise? Do we want  the perhaps more authentic experience of staying at a hotel where we have to struggle to communicate (thanks to our inability to speak the local language) or the relative ease and comfort of staying with hosts who speak our language? Do we want to be travelers or tourists?

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Boquete, Panama – where to stay

This tends to happen – I narrow down our choice of lodging to two options, then am completely torn on which to pick.  And I’m left parsing guidebook descriptions and over-analyzing website photos. My choices in Boquete boil down to two places – one a little more upscale and expensive than the other.  Do we go for the small inn – only three bungalows spread out across a six-acre coffee farm – for $145 per night, with gorgeous grounds or the larger livelier less-secluded eco-lodge/old farm-house w/16 room on a 500-acre coffee farm-  for $99 a night, not quite as gorgeous grounds but still stunning views, with more people around and an on-site nature guide? Oh and one more thing – we’re running up against the non-refundable deposit issue. With the inn, if we have to cancel we’re out $145 (our first night’s stay); the other place doesn’t have that kind of penalty.

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Filed under Adventure travel, eco-tourism, Panama

Apples in Fort Dodge Iowa and BBQ in Des Moines

I was glad to see that the Community Orchard near the airport in Fort Dodge Iowa is still looking good and doing a bustling business. Having the State Cross County Meet a stone’s throw away probably didn’t hurt business – that’s why we were in Fort Dodge for the first time, in my case, in maybe 15 years. Alas, the orchard was out on Jonathans – which I use to make applesauce in mass quantities this time of year – but they still had plenty Honeycrisps and other varieties. Also pies, carmel apples, apple crisp and a lot more fattening stuff we avoided…although we did try Smokey D’s BB ribs in Des Moines on the way home.  The sauce a little too sweet for my Kansas City BBQ-oriented taste, but the service was good, tje ribs meaty and well-smoked. The sides – including homemade potato chips that came in a soon-greasy brown bag served with way-too-good-and-fattening thick ranch dressing, and smokey baked beans with just the right touch of bacon – were good too. Also turned out to be a good place to watch U of Iowa’s football team trounce Michigan State’s!

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Filed under Agritourism, Des Moines, DINING, Iowa

Dreaming of Panama…pt. 2

So here’s what I’m thinking after reading a few guidebooks about our trip to Panama in February (yes, Panama. February!). We’ll stay in Panama City a few days then fly to David and stay in Boquete, an eco-tourism spot in the highlands near the Baru volcano in the western Chiriqui region, then onto the Bocas del Toro Archipelago, seven islands in the Caribbean – specifically Bocas Town on  Isla Colon for a few days. Yes!

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