Category Archives: DINING

On the Raccoon River Valley Trail – Redfield to Panora Iowa

Biking was hot and slow on the trail today from Redfield to Panora, Ia. (farm country about 45 minutes west of Des Moines), with the weather warmer and more humid than expected (92 degrees; who knows what percent humidity) but as always the ride  had its moments – we spotted three large raccoons (we think they were raccoons) crossing the trail, numerous exotic black and blue butterflies, a cyclist on a recombinant bike carrying a violin. (Yes, that was a violin.)

And there’s always ice cream. We used to go to PJs, a popular spot right on the edge of the trail when you arrive in Panora but one time it was closed so we asked around and found out about the 44 Drive In, west of town, past the small brick shops downtown. It’s nothing fancy – which is part of its charm. Just an old white and red trailer with a worn sign that smells a bit like onion rings and burgers, which we’ve never had. But the place is always busy. The malts are good and a small twist cone does the trick when you’re looking for a little kick.

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Filed under bike trails, biking, Des Moines, DINING, Iowa

takemewithyou: Big Sur

My sister and her family may be heading south after her son’s baseball tournament in Monterey so here’s some ideas for Big Sur:

– Don’t miss a walk around Point Lobos reserve, on the ocean with its strange brown-rust-and-green seaside vegetation and rocky cliffs where otters and seals bleat as waves crash onto the rocks.

– We always enjoy eating at the rustic Deetjen’s Big Sur Inn. We found Cafe Kiva at Nepenthe Restaurant overpriced ($4 for a lemonade back in 2001) but what a view!

– At Julia Pfeiffer Burns State Park our then-young kids loved crawling and stepping into the huge redwoods. Nearby is Pfeiffer Beach – another favorite on the ocean.

– The drive from Big Sur to San Luis Obispo took about three hours and is, of course, stunning. We really liked San Luis – a college town (cal poly) with a great midweek farmers market on its long straight main street (all the shops were open that night too). Also home to the wonderfully kitschy Madonna Inn – at least visit and tour the goopy public rooms and eat some pie in the coffee shop.

Hearst Castle, again of course. We spent about three hours there with the kids, taking the tour and I’m not sure what else. gawking. dawdling.

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Filed under California, DINING, hiking, LODGING

More on Decorah, Iowa

Just for the record, we tried a few other restaurants along Water Street in Decorah – good sandwiches (although not the swiftest service) at Ede’s Gourmet and the Angry Pickle Deli (although I didn’t get an pickle, angry or not); and potent wake-me-up coffee and light not-too-sweet lemon poppy muffin tops at Java John’s, a welcoming,  bright and cheerful coffee house (vs. a dark, smokey,  grumpy, surly or hipper-than-thou coffee house, I’ve been to them all.)

Would have tried the sophisticated Rubaiyat:Food for Thought restaurant again (I had a great hamburger at the bar there last year) if it had been open Sunday night. We also dropped by the lovely Hotel Winneshiek which seems to be holding its own. (I always worry about these beautifully restored luxury boutique hotels in small towns after watching the exceptional Hotel Pattee in Perry, Ia. struggle.)

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Filed under DINING, Iowa, LODGING

Dreaming of: Northern Michigan

With two weeks to go before our vacation on Big Glen Lake near Glen Arbor, Mi., we’re starting to line up some things – including a restaurant to meet our relatives (who are staying at the Sylvan Inn) at on Saturday night. Trattoria Funistrada http://www.trattoriafunistrada.com/ comes well recommended so will try to book there – it’s only 9 minutes from our cottage.

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Filed under DINING, LODGING, Michigan

salina, Ks.

Oh that I could share some of the secret charms of Salina, Ks. with you but alas we saw nothing of it but the inside of the Ramada hotel. Such is the reality of my husband’s family reunion. I did hear tell that Salina is the terra-cotta capital of Kansas – no small feat considering how much terra-cotta clads the buildings of Wichita – but I didn’t get to see it – or visit some of our favorite restaurants such as the Cozy Inn and Jim’s Chicken. We did stop today on the way home at Freddy’s – the frozen custard/steakburger chain we first discovered in Oklahoma which seems to be expanding across Kansas. (We last spotted it in Hutchinson, now it’s in Topeka and Junction City.) Very rich custard – maybe too rich. My stomach hasn’t been right since – and eating Gates BBQ, which we picked up in Kansas City, probably won’t help. But fortune favors the brave….

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Filed under DINING, Kansas City, Kansas misc, LODGING

lawrence ks

Our $49,99 ($57 w/tax) hotel room in Lawrence wasn’t bad at all – spacious, clean, sort of soft  beds but sleepable. There were some loud party girls at 2 a.m.  but that’s to be expected. So for the record, the motel is the Virginia Inn. I’d stay there again.

we ate breakfast at Milton’s on Massachusetts – good hearty omelette and strong coffee then walked along the street in the blistering heat, stopping in at vintage shops and KU apparel stores. Kids got the obligatory jayhawks t-shirts although lily got her’s  at a vintage shop.

we’re now at the ramada inn in Salina, ks. for a family gathering and this is the only sight  I’m  likely to see here.

t

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Filed under DINING, Kansas misc, LODGING

Now that we’ve been to Oregon…

Now that we’ve been to Oregon (during a trip last March), there seem to be a lot of stories about places we went to or near.  (Or maybe I’m just more aware of them now and my world view is less Saul Steinberg.)  Anyway, here’s a few examples:

– A recent Wall Street Journal review raved about the Hip Hop Hamlet we saw at the Oregon Shakespeare Festival in Ashland. (I raved first!)

– A recent NYTimes story mentioned several restaurants in Ashland, including the stylish Asian one we ate at called Sesame. (Although I was confused by the story because it says Sesame opened “last April” – we ate there “last March” or maybe that’s “March” in NYTimes style) Others mentioned: The Loft, Blue, Chateaulin.

–  We drove not far from the northern Portland suburb that has since become known as the hometown of a little boy who has gone missing in a strange, sad, highly publicized case.

– And this is the weirdest one: We almost stayed at the Hotel Lucia in Portland, opting instead for its sister hotel, the Hotel DeLuxe. Turns out that the Hotel Lucia is the hotel where a  massage therapist claims she was assaulted by Al Gore.

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Filed under DINING, Oregon, Portland

Cycling and swimming along the Chicago Lakefront – Xoco – Taste of Chicago

Chicago on a beautiful summer day is hard to beat – and boy did we get lucky on Tuesday. The temps were in the 70s, bright sunshine, light breeze. My sister and I rode on the bike trail along the lake front south from North Beach down to around Hyde Park area – great trail, easy riding, little congestion (on a Tuesday), stunning views of the lake and the city, riding past sandy beaches and landscaped gardens.  I borrowed a bike but there is a bike rental at North Beach (and a few other places) – and the rental place has a free air pump, which we made good use of.

On the return trip, we stopped for lunch at Taste of Chicago – crowded but not as bad as a weekend. We “tasted” some good Thai dumplings, a so-so Greek sausage, and an icky Ukrainian dumpling (starchy dumpling with what looked like tomato soup atop it).  Later, I swam for the first time at the Oak Street Beach – the lake was cleaner and warmer than expected with a nice sandy bottom and manageable waves. Laid out on the beach for awhile. Very nice.

For dinner, I went with E and M to Xoco (“cho-ko”) the new Rick Bayless restaurant – we picked just the right time to go: 5:30 p.m. on a Tuesday. We’d heard about long lines and limited seating but this time worked great. We stood in line for maybe 5 minutes, got our food right away, and sat at a high top table on stools outside overlooking the street. Well-managed place.  Food was interesting – supposedly it’s Mexican “street food” but smarted up with artisanal ingredients – the sources for the food – the bread, cheese, meat etc – were prominently displayed.  The Woodland Mushroom torte was a favorite. The Ahogada – which some critic likened, accurately, to a Mexican version of an Italian sub, was messy and hot and tasty (golden pork carnitas, black beans served on crusty bread face down in a tomato broth with a “spicy arbol chile sauce” (wisely, this is not offered for take-out.) We tried one of the caldos (soups) – the pork belly vermicelli which was interesting but not our favorite although the avocado was especially creamy after floating in the thin broth.  The churros were outstanding – a lighter, less greaser version of what we’ve had in Spain. The hot chocolate wasn’t our cup of tea – I’m sure it’s authentic but too sweet for us (we had the Almendrado – a chocolate shot with almond milk.) Very good guacamole (made according to the recipe used by Xoco’s fancier sibling next door, the Frontera Grill) with “just made” (of course) chips. The homemade Mexican vanilla soft serve ice cream tasted pretty much like regular vanilla soft serve…But overall, the place felt unique and fresh, like something truly new and ambitious – and reasonably priced. We spent $60 for three – granted we didn’t have any alcohol.

Next time I’d like to try the Pepito and one of the  griddle Tortas (our two tortas were cooked in a woodburning oven).  Also would like to try the carnitas and the cocoflan (which they didn’t have when we visited.)

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Filed under biking, Chicago, DINING

Dining in Chicago – some new favorites

I discovered some more great places to eat in Chicago during my visit there last weekend. They include:

– Shaw’s Crab House. This bustling, old-fashioned place, serves a tasty one-pound Lobster Boil for $22 in a lively dining room with attentive waiters. There’s also a cool bar that’s good for lunch – and has live jazz at night (or at least the Sunday night we were there.) The soft-shell crab got good reviews too.

– Taza is a fast-foody Middle Eastern restaurant at 176 S. Franklin Street, a block south of the Chicago River (handy for designers attending the annual NeoCon show at the nearby Merchandise Mart – which I also visited, tagging along with my sister-in-law, who is a designer in NYC).  A no-frills place with food shoveled into styrofoam-ware and served over the counter by cheerful men who are very generous with the free samples. The falafel was perfect – not too hard or soft or greasy. Also good chicken and turkey schwarma. Gyro meat and the lentil soup looked very good too.

– Brats at the Old Town Art Fair – served in a churchyard. Big juicy grilled. I ate it with a spicy topping of sauteed peppers and celery (that has an Italian-sounding name starting with a “g”)  It was dubbed “mild” but had quite the kick.

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London (Florentines) – takemewithyou

FLORENTINES!

Yes, I have other work to do but instead I’ve been trying, for almost a day now, to remember the name of a pastry that I first had at Louis Patisserie in Hampstead in, um, 1980.  Finally, after too much thinking and googling, it just came to me:  Florentine –  a round, thin chewy chocolate-coated biscuit covered on one side with nuts and dried fruit.  Yum.  So if you’re at Louis, the famous old Hungarian tea house, try one.  Other London pastry shops will no doubt have them. Or you can  settle, happily I hope,  for a Cadbury chocolate bar with fruit and nuts (one of my favorites.)

If you haven’t noticed by now, I tend to eat “bad” food in London – something my kids immediately picked up on during our first trip there together when they were in grade school. (Is this heaven? No it’s London.) They couldn’t believe I was letting them drink orange soda and eat chips (i.e. fries), crisps (i.e. potato chips, preferably salt and vinegar) and chocolate (Cadbury bars and Maltsers, far better than our malted milk balls, although I prefer U.S M&Ms to the British Smarties) – rather than their usual forced diet of fruit and vegetables.  As I pointed out to them, it all had to do with the price of the food. And, of course, we were “on vacation.”

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Filed under DINING, London, Uncategorized