Category Archives: Panama

Panama – from a cashew farm to Panamanian dancing

Very full day which began at 8 a.m. in a minibus full of game-for-anything Iowa farmers, who set off to visit some Panamanian farms about 120 miles west of Panama City on – as Panamanians would say – “the Pacific side.” The ride was bumpier and longer than expected – almost three hours – but we did get to see stuff your everyday tourist doesn’t. In this case, first stop was a cashew “factory” – a very small operation. We learned that cashews grow on trees, in the form of a fleshy, fist -sized creamy yellowish-orange fruit with a cashew-shaped shell-encased nut growing out of the bottom. Very strange. Our host – who owns the company – picked one of these fruits for us to taste – and then we walked through a very small rudimentary “factory” where we watched a few young men working to shell the cashews, using a foot-pedal operated machine, almost like a vise, to crack open the oily shell and pick out the nuts. These guys do this for hours on end for pay that, if I understood the guide correctly, amounts to $1.25 per hour. Yeesh.

From there we went to a sugar cane operation – driving our bus down rutted dirt roads with high fields of leafy sugar can stalks on either side and the occasional field of onions. As a fire burned in the distance – sugar cane fields are best harvested after they’ve been set afire, we learned – we watched a guy operate a combine-of-sorts to cut the cane. And our guide took what looked like thick sticks, shaved them with a knife until they were a yellowish core which – amazingly enough – tasted wonderfully sweet with odd woody texture. Sugar in the raw!

We stopped on the way back at a remarkable restaurant that was an homage to horses – I’ll try to get the name – and sat in big wooden chairs at long wooden tables with a vaulted ceiling made of rough-hewn wood beams and what looked an awful lot like thousands of pieces of sugar cane but probably wasn’t. We had ceviche, rice and a creamy chicken dish (always these heavy dishes on very hot days) and salad.

Tonight we went with another couple into Panama City to the famous Tinajas Restaurant – okay very touristy but such fun. We ate ceviche (can’t get enough of the stuff) and jumbo shrimp in coconut sauce and drank pina coladas and Balboa beer and best of all, watched a floor show of Panamanian dancers accompanied by percussion players (bongos, maraches, accordion, a tiny female singer who could really belt out those traditional songs.) Great performers – one of whom pulled me up to dance with him, which was a kick – and interesting that the crowd included not just American tourists but what appeared to be many Panamanians and/or people from other Latin American countries.  At the end of the evening,we met two adorable college girls from the Massachusetts Maritime Academy who are doing an intern here  – working at the Panama Canal. They’re studying to work for the port authority – and have gotten to board some of the massive vessel, one from Turkey, another from Russia, that crawl through the canal. How cool is that? Makes me feel like a young carefree explorer again – which isn’t something I’ve felt in some time.

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Panama at last!

Sorry it’s taken me a few days to blog – been on the run nonstop and didn’t have internet access until just now. We’re having an incredible time. Spent first two days based at the Gamboa Rainforest Resort – set in a lush steamy tropical jungle along a muddy river with gorgeous grounds. Went on a guided trip to the Embera Indian Village – which we got to via dug out canoes with outboard motors where we were greeted by scantily clad native people who served us fish and plantains wrapped in a banana leaf, performed some dances and explained their culture. Today was a daylong visit to the Panama Canal – starting with breakfast overlooking the miraflora locks and a presentation by U.S. Embassy Ag staff, then a ride – very long and slow but fascinating – down about 1/2 of the 50 mile canal. Behind us – and i mean right behind us when we got to the locks – was an absolutely enormous freighter (pretty spooky to have that gaining behind us) and in the channel and lock beside us an enormous cruise ship. Tonight we had a lovely dinner at Cafe Barko on the Amadeor Causeway. Now we’re happily settled at our latest incredible hotel – the Intercontinental Playa Bonita Resort on the Pacific, about 20 miles west of downtown Panama City. I could get use to this!!!

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When in Panama…

I’ve been sorting through various restaurant recommendations for Panama City – and think I’ve settled for one touristy but classically Panamanian restaurant, Las Tinajas, that also has Panamanian dancers – and one upscale restaurant, La Posta, that’s not particularly Panamanian but more international in flavor and “Panamanian jet-set” crowd. Figure that will give us a variety.

I’ve never had Panamanian food – which I’ve heard resembles Cuban food, which I have had – so I figure when in Panama, eat like Panamanians which at Las Tinajas includes:  ropa vieja (spicy, shredded beef over rice), carimañolas (yuca rolls stuffed with meat), ceviche, and creole-style sea bass. At La Posta, food prepared by an american-trained chef  and served in a Havana-style dining room sounds a tad Italian, which is always good: yellow fin-tuna ceviche with capers; mero (a high-quality grouper) carpaccio; or fried polenta with Gorgonzola and portobello mushrooms plus thin-crust pizzas, risottos, seafood  such as jumbo prawns with passion fruit and rice pilaf. Also on my list is Madame Chang’s – which I wouldn’t ordinarily consider because it seems odd to eat Chinese food in Panama but apparently it’s some of the world’s best Chinese food.

 

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Dreaming of: Panama

What better way to spend a gray, snowy, very cold January day in Iowa than reading up on Panama, where we’ll be in less than a month. I’ve got most of the itinerary nailed down except the last day or so when we have to somehow get from Boquete in the western highlands to the Bocas, del Toro, the Caribbean town to the north and west. Driving our rental car appears to be out since there’s no drop off. So we’ll either take a bus or hire a driver. It’s the one place I’m not sure we’ll really like so won’t be there that long – only one night – but am curious to see.

I did find about that with the rental car, buying the agency’s insurance is mandatory – unless your credit card company covers. Which I think ours does. But need to check.

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Other issues when picking a hotel in a foreign land…beyond cost and location

Other issues beyond the more pedestrian ones of cost and location when trying to pick, from a great distance (say the distance between Des Moines, Iowa and Boquete, Panama),  a hotel/inn/B&B to stay at in a foreign country:

– SIZE  – Is it a better bet to stay somewhere with 16 rooms then somewhere with one room? Or three rooms? That’s the options we’re looking at for the moment in Boquete.

– AMBIANCE – Do we want the relatively bustling-with-people-and-activity “eco-lodge” or the secluded inn that bills itself as perfect for honeymooners (which we are not)?

– AUTHENTICITY – Do we want the hotel that seems to be run by locals rather than the inn run by expats who have set up shop in paradise? Do we want  the perhaps more authentic experience of staying at a hotel where we have to struggle to communicate (thanks to our inability to speak the local language) or the relative ease and comfort of staying with hosts who speak our language? Do we want to be travelers or tourists?

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Boquete, Panama – where to stay

This tends to happen – I narrow down our choice of lodging to two options, then am completely torn on which to pick.  And I’m left parsing guidebook descriptions and over-analyzing website photos. My choices in Boquete boil down to two places – one a little more upscale and expensive than the other.  Do we go for the small inn – only three bungalows spread out across a six-acre coffee farm – for $145 per night, with gorgeous grounds or the larger livelier less-secluded eco-lodge/old farm-house w/16 room on a 500-acre coffee farm-  for $99 a night, not quite as gorgeous grounds but still stunning views, with more people around and an on-site nature guide? Oh and one more thing – we’re running up against the non-refundable deposit issue. With the inn, if we have to cancel we’re out $145 (our first night’s stay); the other place doesn’t have that kind of penalty.

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Filed under Adventure travel, eco-tourism, Panama

Dreaming of Panama…pt. 2

So here’s what I’m thinking after reading a few guidebooks about our trip to Panama in February (yes, Panama. February!). We’ll stay in Panama City a few days then fly to David and stay in Boquete, an eco-tourism spot in the highlands near the Baru volcano in the western Chiriqui region, then onto the Bocas del Toro Archipelago, seven islands in the Caribbean – specifically Bocas Town on  Isla Colon for a few days. Yes!

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Dreaming of…Panama

My husband has a business trip to Panama City in February and I’m hoping to tag along for a few days (sure beats Des Moines in February). Thought maybe we’d go to Costa Rica afterwards but now thinking we can find some of  Costa Rica’s eco-tourism  in Panama – and save money and complications with flights between Iowa and Central America.  Just cracking open the books on this country but so far the places in the running to go to after Panama City are Boquete, an eco-tourism hotspot, and the San Blas Islands. Also heard good things about the Gamboa Rainforest Resort, outside Panama City, although we’re not really resort people.

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