Category Archives: 4) DESTINATIONS — not in U.S.

bye bye Bocas

Bye Bye Bocas

By betsyrubiner

Having a knowledgable generous b&B owner is a great thing – and that’s what Douglas, the owner of  the lovely Cocomo on the Sea B&B in Bocas del Toro was like.  He not only patiently answered my questions about where to eat and what to do – but took the time to really fill us in, giving us several options. This morning, after a delicious breakfast with four other guests (three who were Russian, another from Connecticut), he invited us into his living room – of sorts, a breezy room overlooking the ocean filled with antiques and knicknacks from various adventures, put on a little Billie Holiday and discussed our options. Then he rode his bike into town to find us a water taxi driver and minutes later, the boat pulled up to the dock at the B&B and off we went speeding across the ocean to a neighboring island with the beautiful Red Frog Beach. There we met a trim enthusiastic yank in a golf cart who offered to drive us to the beach which was only an eight minute walk away from the marina (which had nothing but boats and a welcome desk where we gladly paid $3 entrance fee). She showed us another beach just beyond Red Frog (Turtle beach)  that was even lovelier than Red Frog – and we had all to ourselves for awhile. She was a former Minnesotan who now works at a resort on the island we were visiting – doing massages and yoga and she’s also a “fire dancer” who performed recently for Jimmy Buffet when his boat passed through. these are the kind of people you meet in places like Bocas and it’s fun – and of course makes you question your choices and in my case why I didn’t take the next big step after world wandering — by becoming a bonafide ex pat.

More later – we’ve just landed at a mediocre hotel in panama city that we picked because it was cheap and near the airport which we fly out of tomorrow to return home. But first, one last dinner in Panama City – at La Posta.

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Yes, we’re still in Panama

sorry for the gap in blogging – didn’t have internet access at our lodging in Boquete and just got it here in Bocas Del Toro. We spent three days in Boquete at a coffee plantation high high high on a mountain overlooking a gorgeous valley and adjacent mountain range. Will blog more when have more time. Today, within three hours drive, we were in a completely different world, the afro-caribean beach town of Bocas Del Toro. last night  I was cold when I went to bed. Tonight, I’m hot. Competely different scene as well.

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Chance encounters with young travelers in Panama City

We met two bubbly American girls last night outside the famous Panama City restaurant Tinajas and listening to their stories, told with smiles and laughter and a sunny self-asssurance, reminded me of myself at their age. Once, long long ago, I was a college junior on a  semester abroad (in London, not Panama City) and I knew, just knew, that this was not only one of my happiest chapters to date but would be one of my happiest chapters in my life to come.

The girls were both juniors studying to be port inspectors at the Massachusetts Maritime Academy – and had a one-month internship to work at the Panama Canal. They got to climb aboard huge freighters from Turkey and Russia and presumably see them through the canal – how cool is that? They were two of only four girls in a group of 12 doing this internship and apparently ports are still primarily staffed by men but they seemed completely unfazed by this and confident that they could do whatever they wanted. Good for them!

This morning, my stomach finally succumbed to whatever the Panamanian version of Montezuma’s revenge is. Maybe not that bad. I just had the runs and beyond that was dragging around with little energy in the intense heavy heat. Bit of a bummer since this was the morning for a guided tour of Panama City – but I made it and as expected really liked the faded glory of the Casa Viejo, the former colonial zone, which is undergoing a slow painstaking revamping. For every four or five crumbling building with peeling paint and sagging balconies, thereis an impeccably renovated colonial beauty – reminded me of how much fun New York City’s Soho neighborhood was in the 1970s when my mom took me there to meet artists she was scouting out to show in my parent’s gallery in suburban Detroit. There was a surprise on every other block – a great restored loft or cool boutique or gallery surrounded by rundown buildings. Now that element of surprise is way past in Soho and I hope that doesn’t become the case in Casa Viejo.

To my amazement, the sun has just come out in full force and everything is green and lush again, minutes after an intense rain storm that made the islands outside our hotel and the freighters lined up to enter the canal disappear into a grey and cloudy haze. I sat on the balcony and watched the storm roll in, listening to the sound of the wind blowing it past and couldn’t have been happier.

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Panama – from a cashew farm to Panamanian dancing

Very full day which began at 8 a.m. in a minibus full of game-for-anything Iowa farmers, who set off to visit some Panamanian farms about 120 miles west of Panama City on – as Panamanians would say – “the Pacific side.” The ride was bumpier and longer than expected – almost three hours – but we did get to see stuff your everyday tourist doesn’t. In this case, first stop was a cashew “factory” – a very small operation. We learned that cashews grow on trees, in the form of a fleshy, fist -sized creamy yellowish-orange fruit with a cashew-shaped shell-encased nut growing out of the bottom. Very strange. Our host – who owns the company – picked one of these fruits for us to taste – and then we walked through a very small rudimentary “factory” where we watched a few young men working to shell the cashews, using a foot-pedal operated machine, almost like a vise, to crack open the oily shell and pick out the nuts. These guys do this for hours on end for pay that, if I understood the guide correctly, amounts to $1.25 per hour. Yeesh.

From there we went to a sugar cane operation – driving our bus down rutted dirt roads with high fields of leafy sugar can stalks on either side and the occasional field of onions. As a fire burned in the distance – sugar cane fields are best harvested after they’ve been set afire, we learned – we watched a guy operate a combine-of-sorts to cut the cane. And our guide took what looked like thick sticks, shaved them with a knife until they were a yellowish core which – amazingly enough – tasted wonderfully sweet with odd woody texture. Sugar in the raw!

We stopped on the way back at a remarkable restaurant that was an homage to horses – I’ll try to get the name – and sat in big wooden chairs at long wooden tables with a vaulted ceiling made of rough-hewn wood beams and what looked an awful lot like thousands of pieces of sugar cane but probably wasn’t. We had ceviche, rice and a creamy chicken dish (always these heavy dishes on very hot days) and salad.

Tonight we went with another couple into Panama City to the famous Tinajas Restaurant – okay very touristy but such fun. We ate ceviche (can’t get enough of the stuff) and jumbo shrimp in coconut sauce and drank pina coladas and Balboa beer and best of all, watched a floor show of Panamanian dancers accompanied by percussion players (bongos, maraches, accordion, a tiny female singer who could really belt out those traditional songs.) Great performers – one of whom pulled me up to dance with him, which was a kick – and interesting that the crowd included not just American tourists but what appeared to be many Panamanians and/or people from other Latin American countries.  At the end of the evening,we met two adorable college girls from the Massachusetts Maritime Academy who are doing an intern here  – working at the Panama Canal. They’re studying to work for the port authority – and have gotten to board some of the massive vessel, one from Turkey, another from Russia, that crawl through the canal. How cool is that? Makes me feel like a young carefree explorer again – which isn’t something I’ve felt in some time.

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Panama at last!

Sorry it’s taken me a few days to blog – been on the run nonstop and didn’t have internet access until just now. We’re having an incredible time. Spent first two days based at the Gamboa Rainforest Resort – set in a lush steamy tropical jungle along a muddy river with gorgeous grounds. Went on a guided trip to the Embera Indian Village – which we got to via dug out canoes with outboard motors where we were greeted by scantily clad native people who served us fish and plantains wrapped in a banana leaf, performed some dances and explained their culture. Today was a daylong visit to the Panama Canal – starting with breakfast overlooking the miraflora locks and a presentation by U.S. Embassy Ag staff, then a ride – very long and slow but fascinating – down about 1/2 of the 50 mile canal. Behind us – and i mean right behind us when we got to the locks – was an absolutely enormous freighter (pretty spooky to have that gaining behind us) and in the channel and lock beside us an enormous cruise ship. Tonight we had a lovely dinner at Cafe Barko on the Amadeor Causeway. Now we’re happily settled at our latest incredible hotel – the Intercontinental Playa Bonita Resort on the Pacific, about 20 miles west of downtown Panama City. I could get use to this!!!

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When in Panama…

I’ve been sorting through various restaurant recommendations for Panama City – and think I’ve settled for one touristy but classically Panamanian restaurant, Las Tinajas, that also has Panamanian dancers – and one upscale restaurant, La Posta, that’s not particularly Panamanian but more international in flavor and “Panamanian jet-set” crowd. Figure that will give us a variety.

I’ve never had Panamanian food – which I’ve heard resembles Cuban food, which I have had – so I figure when in Panama, eat like Panamanians which at Las Tinajas includes:  ropa vieja (spicy, shredded beef over rice), carimañolas (yuca rolls stuffed with meat), ceviche, and creole-style sea bass. At La Posta, food prepared by an american-trained chef  and served in a Havana-style dining room sounds a tad Italian, which is always good: yellow fin-tuna ceviche with capers; mero (a high-quality grouper) carpaccio; or fried polenta with Gorgonzola and portobello mushrooms plus thin-crust pizzas, risottos, seafood  such as jumbo prawns with passion fruit and rice pilaf. Also on my list is Madame Chang’s – which I wouldn’t ordinarily consider because it seems odd to eat Chinese food in Panama but apparently it’s some of the world’s best Chinese food.

 

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Dreaming of: Panama

What better way to spend a gray, snowy, very cold January day in Iowa than reading up on Panama, where we’ll be in less than a month. I’ve got most of the itinerary nailed down except the last day or so when we have to somehow get from Boquete in the western highlands to the Bocas, del Toro, the Caribbean town to the north and west. Driving our rental car appears to be out since there’s no drop off. So we’ll either take a bus or hire a driver. It’s the one place I’m not sure we’ll really like so won’t be there that long – only one night – but am curious to see.

I did find about that with the rental car, buying the agency’s insurance is mandatory – unless your credit card company covers. Which I think ours does. But need to check.

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Take me to: Istanbul

No big surprise that the NYTimes reports that its readers most want to visit: Istanbul. It’s one of the cities I’d most like to re-visit, having enjoyed my first and only trip there in 1982. Someday.

I didn’t plan to go to Istanbul when I was wandering around Europe but my plans changed when I arrived in Athens to visit an American friend living there. Looking through her photos to decide where to visit in Greece, I kept picking out photos that were in Turkey instead. So I took the Magic Bus from Athens to Greece with a newly acquired Australian friend named Lyndal and we not only went to Istanbul but roamed around the country for several weeks, exploring to the north with a ride along the Bosporus to the Black Sea; the other-worldly central Turkey area of Cappadocia, the “Turkish Riveria” to the south and  the remarkable ruins at Ephesus on the western coast. Lots of adventures.

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Other issues when picking a hotel in a foreign land…beyond cost and location

Other issues beyond the more pedestrian ones of cost and location when trying to pick, from a great distance (say the distance between Des Moines, Iowa and Boquete, Panama),  a hotel/inn/B&B to stay at in a foreign country:

– SIZE  – Is it a better bet to stay somewhere with 16 rooms then somewhere with one room? Or three rooms? That’s the options we’re looking at for the moment in Boquete.

– AMBIANCE – Do we want the relatively bustling-with-people-and-activity “eco-lodge” or the secluded inn that bills itself as perfect for honeymooners (which we are not)?

– AUTHENTICITY – Do we want the hotel that seems to be run by locals rather than the inn run by expats who have set up shop in paradise? Do we want  the perhaps more authentic experience of staying at a hotel where we have to struggle to communicate (thanks to our inability to speak the local language) or the relative ease and comfort of staying with hosts who speak our language? Do we want to be travelers or tourists?

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Boquete, Panama – where to stay

This tends to happen – I narrow down our choice of lodging to two options, then am completely torn on which to pick.  And I’m left parsing guidebook descriptions and over-analyzing website photos. My choices in Boquete boil down to two places – one a little more upscale and expensive than the other.  Do we go for the small inn – only three bungalows spread out across a six-acre coffee farm – for $145 per night, with gorgeous grounds or the larger livelier less-secluded eco-lodge/old farm-house w/16 room on a 500-acre coffee farm-  for $99 a night, not quite as gorgeous grounds but still stunning views, with more people around and an on-site nature guide? Oh and one more thing – we’re running up against the non-refundable deposit issue. With the inn, if we have to cancel we’re out $145 (our first night’s stay); the other place doesn’t have that kind of penalty.

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