Category Archives: 4) DESTINATIONS — not in U.S.

Machu Picchu – still trying to figure out HOW to buy advance tickets

 

The ruins viewed from the Guardian’s Hut

I have never – ever – had such trouble figuring out how to buy tickets for a place in my life. It’s maddening. I have not been able to get  clear answer on 1) if I need advance tickets in November to visit Machu Picchu? 2) If there is any way to get advance tickets?

The Peruvian government has a website to reserve the tickets but because you can no longer use a credit card of any type to pay for them (due to problems with credit card fraud, apparently) it’s highly unclear how the reservation system works. There are all kinds of stipulations that frankly don’t make much sense. Below is the latest missive I got from the Peruvian government website folks. Clear as mud….(My concern is that we’ve spending a lot of time and money to go to the site – we’ve booked planes, trains, a hotel etc – and apparently there is a limit on how many tourists can visit so I certainly would prefer to reserve or buy tickets in advance. But maybe I don’t need to – because we’re not in the peak tourism season. Or maybe I just plan cannot!)

Dear Betsy

We are so sorry but Visa had so many problems with stolen  and cloned cards that they preferred to cancel the payment system from abroad, all foreign card payments are suspended due to the high level of fraud presented.
We don’t accept any other kind of payment.

Probably visa won’t accept the payment until the next year.


If you have already employed a hotel o some service in Cusco they are able to help you to purchase your ticket.

Another option is to contact to some travel agency.

On our website 
www.machupicchu.gob.pe – Consultas (Queries)- agency, you can see the list of the travel agency.
Remember that you have 6 hours to make the payment or your reservation will be cancelled. 


However if you want to visit only Machupicchu City, you can buy your tickets with 3 to 2 day in advance, if you want to visit Machupicchu and Huaynapicchu you need buy your tickets with 2 weeks in advance.


In Perú: 

You can make your reservation on our website 
www.machupicchu.gob.pe and pay Any office of the Banco de la Nación it is necessary to bring the printed RESERVATION FORMAT; Hours of Availability: Monday to Friday from 8:00 – 17:30 hrs and Saturday from 9:00 – 13:00hrs. Only you can pay in cash and Soles (Peruvian currency).  

In Cusco:
In our authorized offices located on Av. De la Cultura Nº238 Condominio Huascar Wanchaq. Hours availability from Monday to Saturday  07:15 – 18:30. you can book and pay
The AATC (Association of voyages and travel agencies) located on Calle Nueva Baja N º 424, Cusco –  Peru Phone: (084) 22-2580. Hours of availability: Monday to Friday from 9:00 – 16:00hrs.  you can pay just with Visa Card     

Remember that 
you have 6 hours to make the payment or your reservation will be cancelled.       

Thanks for your understanding.


Sincerely,
 

CALL CENTER
DIRECCION REGIONAL DE CULTURA CUSCO
Facebook, Skype y Twitter: DRC Cusco Ministerio de Cultura Call Center
e-mail: callcenter@drc-cusco.gob.pe
Telefono: (51) 84 236061
Direccion: Av. de la Cultura Nº238 Condominio Huascar Wanchaq – Cusco, Perú

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Delights in Turkey

The Gate of Salutation (Bâb-üs Selâm), entrance to the Second courtyard of Topkapı Palace

A friend is visiting her son who is spending a college semester in Istanbul so it’s got me trying to remember my adventures there some 30 years ago. I traveled differently (don’t think she wants to stay at the youth hotel I stayed at) and it was a different time but many highlights remain the same, I’d guess:

The souk and shopping for Turkish carpets and spices while tea served in little cups dangling from a silver tray;  Topkapi palace; The mosques; the antique book shops – and meeting a famous dervish who ran one and gave me as a gift page of the Koran which I promised I’d honor (and I have – it hangs framed high on the wall in my house in Des Moines); the boat ride up the Bosphorus to the Black Sea. Here are a few more cutting edge places from a recent NYT story:

Munferit – Turkish restaurant; Mangerie for breakfast; Anjelique (a nightclub); boutiques around Galata including Nicol and the Grand Bazaar.

Interior view of the Hagia Sophia, showing Islamic elements on the top of the main dome.

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Easiest way to buy a plane tix in Peru – IN Peru

Visa Inc. logo.svgMy son quickly solved our flight dilemma – where we could not buy a ticket online with a credit card for a Star Peru flight from Lima to Cusco – by going to the Star Peru office in Lima and buying the ticket with his debit card. Of course this option isn’t available to those of us who aren’t in Lima but it was nice to know that he could actually get the dang thing. Meanwhile we’re contemplating getting a Visa card since we’re hearing that Visa is more widely used in Peru than Master Card. I don’t know why. For example, I cannot use my Master Card to buy tickets online to Machu Picchu. After finally figuring out how to use the government website I discovered during the third or fourth click that they only take Visa.

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Buying tix to Machu Picchu?

My son has just returned from Machu Picchu and I’m figuring out how to get there! Along the way, I’m beginning to understand why people do package tours to places like Peru. I’m usually pretty good at arranging my own trips – flights, hotels, restaurants, trains, cars et.al. but Peru in general and Machu Picchu entrance tickets in particular have been a challenge.  For Machu Picchu I figured out the train tickets (after sorting through three different rail services, each with several options of trains) and the hotel to stay  in  Aguas Calientes,  the town nearest MP. But  figuring out whether and how to buy the tickets online ahead of time has been tricky.

The official government website http://www.machupicchu.gob.pe appears at first to be useless – thanks to an off-putting advisory translated into barely understandable English that pops up on the first page that suggests you can’t buy tickets online. (There was a problem with fraudulent credit cards, apparently.) The key is to click past this first page to the next page which does offer more hope – even if it’s also hard to navigate. For navigation purposes, I used another  website http://www.machupicchutickets.com  which offers no less than 10 pages worth of instructions on how to buy the tickets.

From what I’ve read, buying tickets ahead is a good idea in general because the number of visitors allowed per day is 2500 (This was done in 2011 to protect the site.) One unanswered  question is whether I need to buy tickets in advance if I’m going off-peak in November. Some people say I don’t. But I also don’t want to make the long trip there (which involves a train trip, bus trip, and overnight stay in a town I would otherwise not visit) and not get into see the glorious Machu Picchu (witness my son’s photos adorning this post.)

View of Machu Picchu from Huayna Picchu, showing the Hiram Bingham Highway used by tour buses to and from the town of Aguas Calientes

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Best Peru restaurants and a Boston-led food tour of Peru!

Pachacamac.jpg the temple of Pachacamac

I met the head chef at Taranta, a wonderful Peruvian restaurant in Boston’s North End and he had lots of suggestions for our upcoming trip to Peru, in part because he leads what looks like  fantastic food tour of Peru. (for more info see: http://www.tarantarist.com/adventures/)

At his restaurant I had some Cusqueña beer (brewed near Cusco, I believe) which was excellent.

These are the restaurants he recommended (and I’ve made reservations at several!)

Lima:
– Mercado
– Central
– FIESTA
– Cala
– La Mar
– Las Brujas de Cachiche
– Malabar
– Astrid y Gaston
Cusco
– La Cicciolina
– Pacha Papa
– Limo
Ollantaytambo
– El Huacatay

– In Arequipa, we need to try these dishes: Rocoto Pelleno (stuffed red peppers made with a fiery hot pepper called rocoto – not the bland red bell pepper) and Chupe de Camarones (Shrimp and Potato Chowder.)

– In Cusco, he said we’ll receive coca leaves when we arrive on the plane and should use them right away to try to avoid altitude sickness. It’s a big no-no to spit out the leaf onto the ground but okay to spit it out discretely into your hand.

– In Urubamba in the Sacred Vally, at El Huacatay  restaurant he said we should say hi to the chef Pio who is his friend.

– He recommended the north of Peru including Trujillo area.

– A good day trip from Lima: the temple of Pachacamac, an archaeological site 40 km southeast of Lima, Peru in the Valley of the Lurín River. Wikipedia reports that most of the common buildings and temples were built c. 800-1450 CE, shortly before the arrival and conquest by the Inca Empire.

–  For info on Inca terracing (a farming method) he suggested looking up a National Geographic on the topic. The technology is called Borai (?)

– He also recommended a Peruvian restaurant in London – Lima London!

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Sending my son off to Peru…without a smart phone

 

 

One of the hardest things about dropping my son off at the airport in Omaha this morning is that he didn’t take his smartphone with him (he won’t be able to use it in his destination city: Lima). So of course right after we exchanged our last wave, just before he went through the x-ray machine, – me crying, him looking a little concerned – I thought of something I wanted to tell him. And I couldn’t. Soon enough he’ll be somewhere that he can email us from but not having the ability to text is tough. It’s not like we text that much – I try not to. But not having the option stinks.  It makes me wonder how my parents coped when I flitted off to Europe and the Middle East for months on end, just roaming without  much of an itinerary, and there was no email or texting option. Back in 1982, our only option – beside very expensive phone calls and not-very-timely postcards – was telegram and I do remember once sending a telegram to my dad for his birthday from Istanbul (when I almost forgot it was his birthday). I made the mistake of wishing him Happy Birthday in  Turkish  – which he of course didn’t understand so I may have unnecessarily alarmed him and my mom. This was only a few years after the movie “Midnight Express” came out…

Anyway, I hope to get an email from my son sometime tomorrow just telling me he’s arrived in Lima safely. Then I’ll be fine. I think.

 

 

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Take me back to Stratford (Ontario) in 2013! (The Who’s Tommy, Othello et. al.)

Looks like we need to make a return visit next year to Stratford Ontario, home of the famous Shakespeare Festival (and yes, Justin Bieber.) We used to go to Stratford a lot when I was growing up in suburban Detroit – which is a few hours drive away – but it’s been at least ten years since we’ve returned. The 2013 season includes a production of the “Merchant of Venice”  (starring veteran Stratford actor Brian Bedford as Shylock) AND “Tommy”, the rock musical based on The Who’s rock opera.   I saw a ballet set to “Tommy” when I was in high school in Detroit – and am pretty sure I can still sing most of the lyrics to the opera. Actor Brian Dennehy will star in Beckett’s “Waiting for Godot” which I haven’t read since high school.  Also on tap: “Romeo and Juliet”  and “Othello.” The NYTimes travel section recently had a story about Stratford and it looks like there’s a lot more there than there was 40-some years ago when I started going to plays there with my parents.

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places to visit in peru – Huaca Juliana, Caral, El Carmen,

Pucllana, Huaca Juliana[1] Pucllana with statues of Lima culture priestsPucllana with statues of Lima culture priests

Yes, you could say I’m living vicariously as I read about all the cool places my son will be going during his upcoming semester abroad in Peru. But I may get to visit some of these places too, when we visit him in Lima and beyond. So here are some ideas (with a little help from wikipedia) from the latest itinerary sent by his Peru study abroad program:

  • The Huaca Juliana, or Huaca Pucllana’, is a great adobe and clay pyramid located in the Miraflores district of central Lima, Peru, built from seven staggering platforms. It takes its name from the Quechua word “pucllay,” meaning “game,” which in its entirety can be translated as “a place for ritual games.” It served as an important ceremonial and administrative center for the advancement of the Lima Culture, a society which developed in the Peruvian Central Coast between the years of 200 AD and 700 AD.With the intended purpose of having the elite clergymen (whom politically governed several valleys in the area) express their complete religious power and ability to control the use of all the natural water resources (saltwater and freshwater) of the zone, a Great Pyramid was constructed in the Huaca. As a whole, the structure is surrounded by a plaza, or central square, that borders the outer limits, and by a large structured wall dividing it into two separate sections. In one section there were benches and evidence of deep pits where offerings of fish and other marine life took place in order to attain the favor of the gods. The other section is an administrative area. This area contains various small clay structures and huts made of adobe–with some walls still standing–whose function seemed to be to act as the courtyards and patios of the enclosure which is over 500 meters in length, 100 in width and 22 in height.Other remains have been uncovered belonging to the Wari Culture (500 AD-900 AD), which was a direct influence on the Lima Culture society towards the ends of its time period. Of particular note are the remains of the “Señor de los Unkus” (The Lord of the Unkus), which belonged to the first tomb within the ceremonial center to have been discovered completely intact. This tomb holds three separate burial shrouds containing the remains of three adults–two of which have masks–and those of a sacrificed child.
  • Caral, or Caral-Supe, was a large settlement in the Supe Valley, near Supe, Barranca province, Peru, some 200 km north of Lima. Caral is the most ancient city of the Americas, and is a well-studied site of the Caral civilization or Norte Chico civilization.
  • El Carmen,  the (Afro-Peruvian) district which is predominantly black, with all its cultural manifestations. It is the center of the (Chincha) province of folklore, romantic people happy, boisterous set in a large valley Chincha. It is the bastion of black genre, since the first settlers were blacks of Angola and Mandingo.  Afro-Peruvian culture has thrived in Chincha Alta, and the Afro-Peruvian residents of El Carmen district practice many traditional dances. The use of the Cajón drum, maracas and other traditional instruments figure prominently in Afro-Peruvian music, which is popular throughout the region. Here’s a blog with good information on all things Peru: http://enperublog.com/2011/04/30/perus-african-side-chincha-el-carmen/

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Tips from a friend who just returned from Scotland and Ireland!! Bring your rain gear

Glenfarg Green

Our friends Kathy, Doug and  Conor just returned from a two week trip to Scotland and Ireland and kindly sent along their highlights/recommendations to share!

Kathy adds: If anyone is planning to go this summer, I’d be sure to bring layers of clothes and rain gear, since they’ve been having torrential rain and predicting it is going to be a “summer without a summer.” So saying, even though the weather was generally cool and rainy, we had some nice days and the weather was never so bad that it prevented us from doing what we wanted.) 


SCOTLAND

Edinburgh:  

Bed and breakfast: We stayed at Priestville Guest House [10 Priestfield Road, Edinburgh EH16 5HJ], a nice bed and breakfast with a friendly host, near the University of Edinburgh about a 20-minute walk from the Royal Mile and a short walk to Holyrood Park, which has plenty of walking and hiking trails.
Restaurants: 

* Salisbury Arms, a classy but casual restaurant and bar near the guest house with a nice patio area. 
* Anna Purna, a vegetarian Indian restaurant that was one of the best meals we had on the trip.
* Ciao Roma, a nice Italian restaurant downtown. Had a great pizza for lunch.

Pubs:

* Leslie’s, a “real ale” bar and traditional Victorian pub. 

Sights:

* National Museum of Scotland: Highly recommended, huge and free. Everything from mummies to dinosaurs and quirky timepieces. You could spend all day here, especially if it is raining.

Glenfarg: A tiny village about an hour north of Edinburgh and Glasgow. “The gateway to the Highlands.” There isn’t much in town but the Glenfarg Hotel, a small (16-room) private hotel with a restaurant and several bars that is obviously the place to be in the area. The Saturday night we stayed there the local soccer team was having their annual “disco night” in the basement bar, another group of locals was watching European championship soccer in the first-floor bar, some senior citizens were having dinner in the dining room, and we camped out in the lobby bar to watch the action. 


Drymen: About an hour north of Glasgow in the beautiful Loch Lomond national park area. A nice little village with several pubs and restaurants that would make a low-key base for several days of hiking, walking and touring. We stayed at the Winnock Hotel on the town square, a nice old hotel that catered to tourists (it hosted a traditional music “céilidh” one night we were there), and had a restaurant and a busy bar. We also had drinks and dinner in several restaurants and bars on the square.

Within driving distance:

* Doune Castle: “Monty Python and the Holy Grail” was shot in this well-preserved 14th-century castle. A fun, funny self-guided audio tour narrated by Python Terry Jones addresses both the actual history and the filming. We agreed that it was one of the best castle tours we’ve taken. 

IRELAND

Howth: Scenic fishing village a nice day trip north of Dublin on the transit system. After wandering all over town, we ended up eating fish and chips at a tiny pierside seafood tapas bar called Octopussy, where we had literally the best meal of the trip. We are still talking about the light, flaky smoked fish.
Waterford: We stated at Dooley’s, an old hotel on the waterfront, which had large rooms, a nice bar and the best buffet breakfast we have ever had. Waterford crystal is made here, and there is a display room and tours available. 




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Notes for Peru

Before I return my Peru travel guides to the library, time to jot down a few notes:

From Fodor’s: (other good book: Cusco and Machu Picchu from Moon Handbooks)

– ESSENTIAL PERU ITINERARY: Day 1: Lima; Day 2: cusco; Day 3: sacred Valley; Days 4 and 5: machu Picchu; Day 6: cusco to Lima (my aunt has recommended day 2 in Sacred valley (to get used to the altitude) then days 3-4 in Cusco and day 5 in Machu Picchu; with Amazon River extension: Day 6: cusco; Day 7-10 Iquitos and Amazon Cruise. (We’ll also spend more time in Lima because our son will be living there.)

– Lima where to stay: Barranco neighborhood vibe “bohemain, historic atmosphere, appeas to younger people; pros: neighborhood vibe; cons plenty of fbars, restaurants, lovely architecture (methinks this was a tongue-in-cheek “con”). Second Home Peru!!

– Cusco, where to stay: Ninos Hotel – i.e. children’s hotel. Not only sounds like a lovely place but proceeds donated to are of local disadvantaged children. Sounds too good to be true. “immensely popular” so must book way ahead.

– Sacred Valley – Pisac market! (tuesday, thursday, Sunday) and town of Ollantaytambo and salt pans at Salineras (below)

File:030-Las Salineras.JPG

which remind me of the calcium-deposit waterfalls in Turkey’s Pamukkale (below).

Pamukkale, with pools of water from hot springs
Country Turkey

– When to go: Sundays are free for locals so busier in Cusco then.  “for near-ideal weather and manageable crowds, fall trip!”

– for altitude sickness: prescription drug acetazolamide/diamox; don’t drink alcohol or caffeine; mate de coca (team made from coca plant)drink lots of water. (bottled, even when brushing your teeth and order drinks with NO ICE  – traveler’s diarrhea sounds like no fun. One folk remedy is chamomile (manaznilla) tea))

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