Category Archives: Europe

Mitte South, Potsdamer Platz, Alexanderplatz, gendarmenmarkt, artemisia

Greetings from Berlin where my biggest frustration has been trying to get Internet access on my iPad. I had the same issue in London at my friends house but finally got it. never had any issues in Peru, when I last used it in a foreign land. I did go to a computer store nearby and the guy pressed one button and charged me 15 euros. I thought he was joking. But no.

Anyway, I walked myself silly today and although I made several wrong turns, after awhile I started to understand the lay of the land, literally, and how the various u Bahn and S Bahn trains connect, plus the 100 and 200 Buses, which are cross town buses, doubledecker no less, that offer a great respite from walking long straight streets and some terrific scenery.

I am still trying to work out where “the wall” ran and what is east vs. West Berlin. But it was intriguing to see bits of the wall here and there – the bits by the now super modern Potsdam Platz appear to be covered not only with graffiti but wads of chewing gum. A lot of Berlin requires a better imagination than I have so you can see ugly wall where there are now huge modern buildings and Hitlers bunker where there is now what appears to be an apartment block. ( Right across the street from the other women only hotel I was thinking of staying at, Intermezzo.) while Berlin has its imposing older monuments, the Brandenburg Gate, the post WW2 communist architecture and the 21st century monuments, most notably the Holocaust memorial (which got me choked up as I found myself wandering deep inside the maze of bar slabs of grey stone, laid out in a dizzying number of fluctuating heights) are really the most captivating. Anywhere else, say Chicago and its Cabrini Green housing complex, these bleak concrete slab buildings might be knocked down. But here they are a source of fascination, maybe even pride, a historical record of the brutality of communism. This seemed particularly the case around Alexanderplatz, with its famous bizarre Jetsonesque tv tower and strange mosaics and painted murals on occasional communist era buildings. I also find myself looking at the graffiti differently, as another historic artifact. So that is interesting because architecture I would gave dismissed and graffiti I would have disdained at home, is here in Berlin a surprising source of fascination.

So far, I am enjoying staying at this women only hotel. As I type outside on the fifth floor rooftop overlooking the Charlottenburg-Wilmersdorff area, three women in their sixties, from Canada, Germany and Australia are talking about life, carrying for elderly parents, their adventures as retirees, where to eat dinner, which U and S bahn stations have the most stairs.

I did have my fix of grilled Bavarian coarse fried sausages, mashed potatoes and sweet cooked cabbage that I remember eating in Munich and even had a midday (Augustiner Hell) beer at Augustiner Gendarmenmarket, a lovely reconstructed square. When in Rome. But I cannot seem to bring myself to eat curry wurst…which looks even worse than I thought: sausages served with curry powder and then, even worse, ketchup. Ick.

Other interesting sights: a guy juggling while riding a unicycle in front of traffic stopped at a busy intersection (when the traffic started, he put out his collection hat and got out of the way);eight or so tourists riding some awkward contraption that they sat atop in a circle and peddled; tons of cyclists and tourists on bikes, which seems the best way to see everything. Hope to do that!!

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Thoughts on leaving…

Clockwise:Charlottenburg Palace, Fernsehturm Berlin, Reichstag building, Berlin Cathedral, Alte

So as I’m rushing around trying to do all the last-minute errands  and tie up  work projects before leaving on a three-week trip to Berlin and beyond, I find myself feeling surprisingly sentimental about the calm, comfortable, everyday life I’m shelving briefly. Maybe that’s an unexpected bonus of travel, suddenly appreciating what you’re leaving behind and will soon return to!

Des Moines, Iowa
—  City  —
City of Des Moines

Clockwise from top: 801 Grand (Principal Financial Group), Greater Des Moines Botanical Garden, Kruidenier Trail bridge, and the Iowa State Capitol

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Lessons learning while buying train tickets for Eastern Europe

Deutsche Bahn AG
Db-schild.svg

Who would have thought it would be easier to buy train tickets online for  Peru than for Germany  and  Eastern Europe? Okay, I’m not willing to say that’s true yet. But buying tickets online for train trips this summer through Germany, Poland and the Czech Republic was harder than expected. I managed to find some of the train schedules on the DB Deutsche Bahn website (a German company http://www.bahn.com) but the site didn’t always list  the fares – or indicate when or if the tickets could be purchased online. (In some cases, it looked like I’d have to buy them by making a phone call to Europe.)

Rail Europe Logo

Meanwhile, on the site that I could buy at least some tickets online – Rail Europe (www.raileurope.com) – I couldn’t always find schedules or fares. I finally had to call Rail Europe and pay a $15 fee for phone assistance – which turned out to be worth it, even if I had to leave my name on an answering machine and wait for  an hour for Rail Europe to call me back (better than lingering on hold I guess.) Here are some things I learned through this process:

– If you can find a train schedule but NOT the price or when/if the tickets can be purchased via DB Bahn, email their help line (Sales@bahn.co.uk) and you will get some if not all the information. (This is helpful especially if you’re trying to see if it costs more to take the train or fly.)

– If you can’t figure out how to buy the tix online via Rail Europe, call and pay the additional fee ($33 all toll when you add the processing fee, which includes the cost of mailing the ticket – which are paper and not available for online printout.)  I was told that it would have been very hard  to do-it-myself online because the three train trips I needed to book are unusually complicated. They’re not the typical Yank tourist routes (Berlin-Gdansk anyone? Not to mention Gdansk-Krakow and Krakow-Prague). And they involve three different countries with varying ways of selling train tickets. (The Poles, for example, won’t let you buy your ticket more than a month in advance but I could buy the tickets involving Berlin and Prague about two months in advance.) I also found help by emailing service@raileurope.com.

– Figuring out the price and booking a sleeper for an overnight train is tricky because the countries we’re visiting – unlike some others, apparently – require that you buy two separate items for each journey (a ticket, which  gets you on the train, and a reservation, which specifies a seat or compartment on the train, – as I understand it.)

– A Eurail  pass, which   we’ve used in the past, didn’t work for this trip because of our particular schedule and because we’re taking two overnight trains. Oh well. I liked the ease of the Eurail pass – but then I was traveling for months, not weeks, when I used one on several occasions.

– Read the fine print – especially to see how many stops the train makes! There’s also various classes/speeds of train. I never really figured this all out.

– The Polish Rail website wasn’t much help.

– Rick Steves’ website also has some good information on train travel http://www.ricksteves.com/rail/

– Trains vs. Planes: Sometimes flying is comparable in price to riding the train (ex: Gdansk-Krakow) but not always (example Krakow-Prague where flying was much more expensive.)  Planes of course are a lot faster – for Gdansk-Krakow flying takes 1.5 to 2.5 hours (direct vs. connecting flight) while the direct overnight train takes  11 hours. But we went with the train 1) because we so seldom get to ride a train, especially an overnight train and still find this romantic (that may change.) 2) the times of the direct planes didn’t work well with our schedule  – one was 6:30 a.m. and the other 5:30 p.m.   3) It’s often a hassle to get to the airport vs. the train station. 4) we  do save money by taking an overnight train and not paying for a hotel that night, for what that’s worth.

– I did opt to fly (EasyJet) from London to Berlin rather than take trains. (way too complicated…)

– Paper tickets. Apparently I can’t print tickets out online. And the paper tickets won’t be mailed out until a few weeks before our departure date (even though I bought them two months in advance) because the Polish ticket can’t be issued until a month before we travel. Grrr… Here’s hoping it all works out.

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Highlights of County Cork (Ireland)…Ballydehob, Schull, Mizen Head and beyond!

Happy Birthday Myra! This  is for you! (But others are welcome to enjoy!)

My friend Myra and her family are traveling to County Cork, Ireland (and beyond) this summer so, as promised, here are highlights from our 2004 trip there, culled from entries hastily scribbled in my journal (journal #44 to be precise.) Please excuse any misspellings – chalk it up to tricky Gaelic spelling and my hard-to-decipher handwriting!

Another good resource: http://www.schull.ie/index.html, (complete with a sound track of fiddlely-dee music – as our English friend Francine refers to Irish music).

COUNTY CORK

  • We rented a 200-year-old stone house in the countryside with a tiny pond, outside the small village of Ballydehob. (I wish I knew exactly where.  Below are some family photos. We shared the house with friends from London.)
The kids (Morgan, Lily, emma, Noah) and Russ after a run, outside "our house" in Ballydehob, 2004

The kids (Morgan, Lily, Kate, Noah) and Russ after a run, outside “our house” in Ballydehob, 2004

Noah and Morgan outside "our house" in Ballydehob. 2004

Noah and Morgan outside “our house” in Ballydehob. 2004

  • We spent much of our time in the larger village of Schull (pronounced “Skull”) where we visited the Sunday morning farmers market. (Of course!)  We bought some  locally-made Gubbeen cheese (my favorite on this trip; the mature, non-smoked version is best!),  sausages and bread for a picnic by the water; visited the ruins of a church with a famine (?) graveyard; and had a drink at The Courtyard, which we ended up visiting several times. We watched local musicians play during a traditional sing-along. We also ate one of our better meals at the pub – which, oddly, was Thai food. At the Sunday market,  I also bought  a hand-knit sweater (which I still wear). Here’s a photo of the kids exploring the ruins by the water in Schull.

The kids exploring the ruins along the bay in Schull

In Scull, we also went to a ceilidh (pronounced kaylee) at the village hall – which is not to be missed. It was a cross between a square dance and a talent show, where locals and visitors (from all over including Germany, France and, oddly, the Canary Islands) danced reels and line dances to live accordion music, as well as performed ad hoc. (Francine got up and sang a song. So did a weather-beaten  old man sitting beside us who didn’t say a word otherwise. He sang beautifully; Some young girls did Irish stepdancing, a la Riverdance.  A little boy played a tin whistle. ) Then we all broke for tea and biscuits (of course!

In Schull the kids also went sea kayaking. One of our best meals was home-cooked – we brought back fresh mussels and salmon that we bought along the water in Schull.

DAY TRIPS FROM SCHULL:

#1) We drove about 45 minutes southwest to Mizen Head, a very dramatic slab of sculpted rock jutting out into the ocean (or so I wrote). We toured the lighthouse station, stood on a suspension bridge above a deep slash in the rock   (shades of Ithaca!) and saw several seals. From there we drove to the small fishing village of Crookhaven (see photo at top), where we ate  crab sandwiches and seafood chowder at O’Sullivans Bar, sitting at an outdoor  picnic table overlooking a narrow channel full of sailboats.  A few brave souls (not me among them) tried swimming in the ice cold sea (or “paddling” as the Brits call taking a dip.)

Mizen Head: the most south-westerly point of Ireland.

#2) We took a day trip via ferry to “Clear Island”  (see photo below; AKA Cape Clear or Cléire), a wild, largely uninhabited small slab of craggy land which we will forever refer to as “UnClear Island” since the little isle was shrouded in dense fog. But it was a fun trip. During a long hike in the fog, mist and “soft rain,”  I completely lost sight of Emma – who I was pretty sure was ahead of me – but when I called out to her, she answered back. Phew!Clear Island.jpg  I also had my first ever Irish coffee in the pub by North Harbor, where we caught the ferry back. (see photo below). It really hit the spot since we were chilled from our long slog  in the fog. The ferry ride aboard the Karycraft took about 45 minutes and was very amusing, thanks to our skipper, Kiernan Malley, who not only told stories about the area but sang a song or two while playing the accordion and ,presumably, steering the boat (We later spotted him working in a car garage in Schull. A man of many talents!)

Betsy drinking her first Irish Coffee in a pub with Noah on "Unclear Island" outside Schull

Church at Gougane Barra – built on island near monastery/well site at end of 19th century.

#3) Another great day trip:  Bantry Bay to the seaside villages of Glengarriff and Castletownbarre (where we ate seafood chowder at MacCarthy’s Pub), around the Beara Peninsula and stunning Cod’s Head cape.

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The junction of Main Street, North Road and the pier in Castletownbere

OTHER PLACES WE VISITED IN IRELAND:

Picture for category Romantic Gifts

COUNTY KILKENNY

We stayed in the pretty and welcoming  Oldtown Farmhouse b&b  in the village of Stoneyford, outside Thomastown.  We really liked the city of Kilkenny, with its medieval castle and cool Kilkenny Design Centre with great crafts (where I bought celtic-design earrings that I also continue to wear!) The Centre has a collection of work by the now world-famous Dublin-born designer Orla Kiely (who has had a recent gig in the U.S. with Target stores). We also visited an amazing 12th century monastic ruin outside Stoneyford (where we stayed at a farm b&b).
By the water in Schull
Emma in Co. Kilkenny at a monastic ruin

Mountain view from Oldtown Farmhouse

DUBLIN

We stayed in Howth, a small village outside Dublin (we commuted into the city) with a cool cliff walk over looking the ocean. We stayed at a very low-key  b&B called Gleann-na-smol B&B (where we found some other visitors from….Iowa). Very nice host family.

  • Gleann-na-Smol B&B
  •  In Dublin we did the typical stuff – walked around Trinity College, St. Stephen’s Green, Grafton Street, at pizza at the Badass Cafe at Temple Bar, walked over the Ha’Penny bridge.Image

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the Ha’penny Bridge

 

Go dté tú slán (which means safe journey in gaelic – but who knows how to pronounce it!)

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Poland (Gdansk, Krakow) and Prague bound! Maybe Berlin too.

Gotyk HouseIt looks like we’re going to Poland in July – yes, Poland. Three years ago, two Polish teenagers from Gdansk stayed with us in Des Moines and our son later stayed with one teen’s family in the northern seaport of Gdansk. They were a lot of fun and we promised we’d visit some day. So when my husband got word that he’ll be going on a business trip to tour farms in the Ukraine-Moldova-Romania, we looked at map to see where I could meet up with him after his trip and there was POLAND! We’re very excited to see our friends and the gorgeous city they live in – which we’ve heard so much about. We’re also going to Krakow – which was one of our son’s favorite places when he visited Poland. And on to Prague – where we hope to rendezvous with friends from London. I may also throw in a solo trip before all this to…another place I’ve never been: Berlin. (We went to Munich and Bavaria to visit American friends living there in 1989 and I distinctly remember taking a train on a day trip to Saltzburg that was later going on to Prague. Prague! That sounded interesting but it wasn’t an option back then because this was just before the wall came down and as I recall we still needed some special documents to travel to Eastern Europe. No more.)

So far I’ve found two good small hotels, reasonably priced:

Gotyk House in Gdanska small  b&b in what’s reportedly this seaport city’s oldest house, built in 1541.  (see illustration above)

Karmel hotel in Krakow – in Kazimierez, the former Jewish quarter/ghetto dating back to the 1500’s. (I should feel right at home…although the Jewish ghetto has been replaced by what is now a trendy area, I’m told. And of course, the vast majority of the 60,000 Jews in the ghetto were murdered by the Nazis.) In addition to Auschwitz, we plan to visit Oskar Schindler’s factory. Apparently the nearby concentration camp Birkenau is even worse than Auschwitz. We visited Dachau years ago in Munich.

Royal Capital City of Kraków
Stołeczne Królewskie Miasto Kraków

Main Market Square, Wawel Castle, Barbican, St. Mary’s Basilica, St. Peter and Paul Church, Collegium Maius

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Delights in Turkey

The Gate of Salutation (Bâb-üs Selâm), entrance to the Second courtyard of Topkapı Palace

A friend is visiting her son who is spending a college semester in Istanbul so it’s got me trying to remember my adventures there some 30 years ago. I traveled differently (don’t think she wants to stay at the youth hotel I stayed at) and it was a different time but many highlights remain the same, I’d guess:

The souk and shopping for Turkish carpets and spices while tea served in little cups dangling from a silver tray;  Topkapi palace; The mosques; the antique book shops – and meeting a famous dervish who ran one and gave me as a gift page of the Koran which I promised I’d honor (and I have – it hangs framed high on the wall in my house in Des Moines); the boat ride up the Bosphorus to the Black Sea. Here are a few more cutting edge places from a recent NYT story:

Munferit – Turkish restaurant; Mangerie for breakfast; Anjelique (a nightclub); boutiques around Galata including Nicol and the Grand Bazaar.

Interior view of the Hagia Sophia, showing Islamic elements on the top of the main dome.

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Tips from a friend who just returned from Scotland and Ireland!! Bring your rain gear

Glenfarg Green

Our friends Kathy, Doug and  Conor just returned from a two week trip to Scotland and Ireland and kindly sent along their highlights/recommendations to share!

Kathy adds: If anyone is planning to go this summer, I’d be sure to bring layers of clothes and rain gear, since they’ve been having torrential rain and predicting it is going to be a “summer without a summer.” So saying, even though the weather was generally cool and rainy, we had some nice days and the weather was never so bad that it prevented us from doing what we wanted.) 


SCOTLAND

Edinburgh:  

Bed and breakfast: We stayed at Priestville Guest House [10 Priestfield Road, Edinburgh EH16 5HJ], a nice bed and breakfast with a friendly host, near the University of Edinburgh about a 20-minute walk from the Royal Mile and a short walk to Holyrood Park, which has plenty of walking and hiking trails.
Restaurants: 

* Salisbury Arms, a classy but casual restaurant and bar near the guest house with a nice patio area. 
* Anna Purna, a vegetarian Indian restaurant that was one of the best meals we had on the trip.
* Ciao Roma, a nice Italian restaurant downtown. Had a great pizza for lunch.

Pubs:

* Leslie’s, a “real ale” bar and traditional Victorian pub. 

Sights:

* National Museum of Scotland: Highly recommended, huge and free. Everything from mummies to dinosaurs and quirky timepieces. You could spend all day here, especially if it is raining.

Glenfarg: A tiny village about an hour north of Edinburgh and Glasgow. “The gateway to the Highlands.” There isn’t much in town but the Glenfarg Hotel, a small (16-room) private hotel with a restaurant and several bars that is obviously the place to be in the area. The Saturday night we stayed there the local soccer team was having their annual “disco night” in the basement bar, another group of locals was watching European championship soccer in the first-floor bar, some senior citizens were having dinner in the dining room, and we camped out in the lobby bar to watch the action. 


Drymen: About an hour north of Glasgow in the beautiful Loch Lomond national park area. A nice little village with several pubs and restaurants that would make a low-key base for several days of hiking, walking and touring. We stayed at the Winnock Hotel on the town square, a nice old hotel that catered to tourists (it hosted a traditional music “céilidh” one night we were there), and had a restaurant and a busy bar. We also had drinks and dinner in several restaurants and bars on the square.

Within driving distance:

* Doune Castle: “Monty Python and the Holy Grail” was shot in this well-preserved 14th-century castle. A fun, funny self-guided audio tour narrated by Python Terry Jones addresses both the actual history and the filming. We agreed that it was one of the best castle tours we’ve taken. 

IRELAND

Howth: Scenic fishing village a nice day trip north of Dublin on the transit system. After wandering all over town, we ended up eating fish and chips at a tiny pierside seafood tapas bar called Octopussy, where we had literally the best meal of the trip. We are still talking about the light, flaky smoked fish.
Waterford: We stated at Dooley’s, an old hotel on the waterfront, which had large rooms, a nice bar and the best buffet breakfast we have ever had. Waterford crystal is made here, and there is a display room and tours available. 




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About that Sufi sheikh I met in Istanbul…

About that sheikh I met in Istanbul – he was a Sufi Dervish (not exactly a whirling dervish but related, I think). Here’s some info I found when I googled him, including  a 1982 NYTimes story (It also refers to his followers’ mosque in Soho, which I visited. Wonder if it’s still there…).

The wikipedia entry even mentions his book store in Istanbul! And I found several photos  and an interview with him on youtube http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=hAyD9awfQjY. (The internet is an amazing thing…)

wikipedia

Muzaffer Ozak (1916 – February 12, 1985) was one of the head sheikhs of the HalvetiJerrahi order of Dervishes, a traditional muslim Sufi order (tarika) from Istanbul (Turkey). In western countries he is well known because of his visits to Europe and the United States of America where he celebrated public dhikrs (Remembrance of God; in Turkish “zikrullah”) with his dervishes. He is also well known in Turkey for his “ilahis,” religious Sufi hymns. The Halveti-Jerrahi Sufi Order is named for him. Ozak also ran a bookstore in the Sahaflar Çarşısı in Istanbul.

MUSIC: THE SUFI DERVISHES

By JOHN ROCKWELL
Published: April 28, 1982

ANNUALLY since 1978 the priests, chanters, musicians and dancers of the Sufi dervishes of the Halveti-Jerrahi order from Istanbul have presented their communal ceremony of the ”dhikr” at the Cathedral of St. John the Divine. So popular have these admission-free mystical Islamic cermonies become, and so magnetic seems the order’s leader, al-Hajj Sheikh Muzaffereddin Halveti al-Jerrahi, that a mosque for the order has been established in SoHo, reflecting the strong appeal that this particular sect has for the city’s artists.

This spring’s visit – another tour is planned for October – was confined to one local performance. Despite a rainy night, several hundred people turned up Monday at the cathedral, and their participation was so eager that one wondered if the spacious floor of the cathedral could have comfortably accommodated many more.

The dhikr lasted two hours. There was some 45 minutes of music – a chanted prelude, the formal entrance of the main body of the dervishes, then chanting by the sheikh and solo cantors with communal responses from the 40 male dervishes (24 women huddled subserviently at the side). Gradually the music built in intensity and evolved into dance, with instrumental and chanted accompaniment, and finally members of the audience were invited to join, too, forming concentric circles around the sheikh and the dervishes, everyone spinning and swaying and chanting.

For veterans of participatory art events of the 1960’s, all of this seemed familiar. But it must be remembered that the 60’s communalists were inspired by ceremonies of this sort, rather than the other way around. On a purely esthetic level, the echoic vastness of the cathedral made an impressive setting for the ceremony. But this was a ritual that transcended pure art, or more properly restored to art its functional links to the spiritual life of the ”artists” involved, which in turn may explain this order’s appeal to artists, shaken in their faith in their own usefulness.

Perhaps that restoration is more imagined than real: the dhikr is a ”ritual of remembrance,” ostensibly of God but maybe also of the lost power of art literally to transform souls. Looked at this way, through secularized Western eyes, it takes on an unintended poignance. But poignance, too, can be the stuff of meaningful art.

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Gdansk again

The New York Times travel section seems to have discovered (rediscovered?) Gdansk in a big way. In January they included the northern Poland city in its “Where to Go in 2011.” Last Sunday, they plugged it again in response to a reader’s request for somewhere else to go after visiting Warsaw.

Gdansk has been on my list for the past two years since we hosted two students from there at our home here in Iowa – and my son visited them later that summer.  The NYT also recommends Sopot, as “the Hamptons” of Poland.  In 2012, Gdansk (formerly Danzig) will host the European soccer championship. Place to stay – new boutique-style Hilton (or Sofitel Grand in Sopot); Place to visit: Ergo arena (a symphony hall in a former power plant with a hip restaurant) and a beloved amphitheater in Sopot that’s reopening called the Forest Opera.

 

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Take me to: Istanbul

No big surprise that the NYTimes reports that its readers most want to visit: Istanbul. It’s one of the cities I’d most like to re-visit, having enjoyed my first and only trip there in 1982. Someday.

I didn’t plan to go to Istanbul when I was wandering around Europe but my plans changed when I arrived in Athens to visit an American friend living there. Looking through her photos to decide where to visit in Greece, I kept picking out photos that were in Turkey instead. So I took the Magic Bus from Athens to Greece with a newly acquired Australian friend named Lyndal and we not only went to Istanbul but roamed around the country for several weeks, exploring to the north with a ride along the Bosporus to the Black Sea; the other-worldly central Turkey area of Cappadocia, the “Turkish Riveria” to the south and  the remarkable ruins at Ephesus on the western coast. Lots of adventures.

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