Category Archives: Hawaii

Following in my parents’ tire treds – in Hawaiʻi Volcanoes National Park

I often end up going places – from the Dordogne region of France to Grafton, Vermont and Columbus, Indiana (an unlikely architectural hotspot) – because my parents went before me.   I  am driven not only by vague memories of their travel tales but because I inherited their tastes and sensibilities (if not their budget.)

Soooo, when I was trying to figure out where to go in Hawaii, the main reason I  settled on visiting the Big Island and its Hawaiʻi Volcanoes National Park  is a vague memory of my parents’ story about riding a bike into a dormant volcano there. Sure enough, here’s my dad’s  recollection of  that trip – which makes me want to go all the more…and on a bike! (Note to self: find out if/where we can rent bikes at the national park.)

We did a bike trip around the big island many moons ago. There is one road that circles the island at the high level…it goes thru several kinds of climate from rain forest to barren lava beds. We would stay at hotels near the water, ride up the big hill to get to the road, ride down to have lunch by the water, ride up again and then ride till the end of the day and come back to the water. The only change was when we got to the volcano where we stayed overnight in the hotel right next to the volcano mouth. Some hardy soles actually rode their bike up the hill but mom and I opted for a sag-wagon ride. In the morning we could then walk out onto the volcano which still had some small smoking holes. The next morning was the culmination of the trip. We rode our bikes down the mountain, coasting for almost 2 hours without peddling once. The final miles were down the route of the Ironman marathon, which was run uphill in the opposite direction. There was a town near the base of the volcano that was famous for being the home of the hippies…more pot smoke came up from the town than from the volcano. Don’t neglect buying macadamia nuts while you are there…they are the single most caloric food possible. Also, the Kona coffee is a major tasting.

My dad adds:  It was an organized bike trip, either VBT or another like it.While there I bought a tee shirt that said I did the Iron Man…people looked at me differently when I wore it. Same result as when I wore the Ragbrai jacket.

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Where to stay on Hawaii’s Big Island: can the mags/books/websites be trusted?

So I’m elbow deep in thick guidebooks trying to figure out the best (my “”best” definition: the most interesting/authentic, least expensive/resort/chain-like) place to stay on Hawaii’s Big Island and fine myself torn about two B&Bs in Volcano, Hawaii (right by the National Volcano Park).

I’ve gone to the websites for each and watched the videos and slide shows and scanned the maps and read the testimonials. I’ve looked at one room after another, even one B&B’ s  floor plans. Does it really make a difference if the proprietor was born and raised in Volcano – or a relatively recent transplant from Oklahoma?  Do I care that one serves a hot breakfast, the other a cold; one serves organic fruit, the other fruit not billed as organic? And to think I used to just travel without booking a place to stay – let alone the absolutely perfect place to stay, whose every crevice I am familiar with in advance.

This researching also raises the question of whether to trust the opinion of various travel magazines and guidebooks.  Having written for both, I sometimes wonder what their criteria is for choosing “the 25 best” or “the 10 places we love” etc.  (A recent example – Forbes Magazine recently selected the Des Moines neighborhood I live in as one of America’s 12 prettiest. It’s nice enough but one of the top 12? Looking closer, I saw that a Des Moines magazine editor helped do the picking.)

Back to Hawaii: B&B#1  appears to be the darling of the travel mags (two have given it a major thumbs up) and it is the cheapest. But judging from the websites of each, it  looks rather drab compared to B&B #2 which is more cheerfully decorated, gets respectful reviews in two guidebooks (as does B&B #1) ,  has its share of local “Best of” awards, and was selected as a stopover by a respected walking tour company. True it’s $70 more a night, which one guidebook says is a “con” because it’s overpriced for the area.  But I may just have to go with my gut on this one.

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Walking the Big Island in Hawaii

I’m starting to think we should visit the Big Island during our trip to Hawaii in January, which will start with a conference in Honolulu.  I’ve gotten some suggestions from VBT’s walking tours catalog – including visiting Pu’uhonua o Hanaunau,  Hawaii Volcanoes National Park, Hamakua Coast/Wilamea/Anna’s Ranch , Kohala Coast, Hilo and staying at: Kilauea Lodge, Hilo Hawaiian Hotel, Hapuna Beach Prince Resort.

Any other suggestions welcome!

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Hints for Hawaii

Time to start gathering string for our trip to Hawaii in January. YES!

A friend emailed from there the other day with these suggestions: this is my fifth time here. I love it. Oahu, Maui and the Big Island are my favorites. Lots to see on Oahu: Pearl Harbor, Diamond Head, North Shore where the waves are much bigger, Dole plantation. You will have a blast. Stay as long as you can because it’s a long flight. We are on Kauai, Maui and Oahu on this 10-day trip. Aloha!

Also read in AAA magazine that it’s possible to find low key interesting b&Bs on the Big Island for about $150 a night. I’d love to find something akin to Panama’s laid-back hippish Bocas Del Toro in Hawaii.

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Cheap airfare to Hawaii

If I buy a plane ticket now for our January trip to Hawaii, I probably will save a bundle since I just found tickets from Des Moines to Honolulu for about $550. But I can’t quite bring myself to buy them yet – since lots of things could change between now and then. So I’m posting this now – as a reminder in November when I’m searching for reasonable fares, of what might have been….Granted the $525 fare is a three-flight trip (DM to Minneapolis to Seattle to Hawaii). The $700 or so ticket is a two-flight trip.  And it’s important to look at where the flights connect. Some of the three flight trips take you all the way to Georgia and then back to Des Moines. Not good. The best options appear to be two-flight trips from DM to Denver to Hawaii….

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Oahu here we come

I haven’t gotten the geography of Hawaii in my head yet – but there’s time. we don’t go there until next January. The NYTimes did have some recommendations for Oahu in yesterday’s paper so here they are:

– For hiking, Waimea Valley on Oahu’s North show – includes guided hikes. The less strenuous Ala Ki Hike takes you to the top of Kalahee Ridge, on a switchback trail through mixed forest of exotic and native plants. More challenging is Diamond Head Crater with stunning views of Oahu’s southern shoreline.

There’s a farmers market (Kapiolani Community College farmer market across from the crater on Saturdays – with Oahu fruit/veg, handmade past, goof breakfast.

Other dining options: Orchids at the Halekulani Hotel in Honolulu (seafood, local produce and banana macadamia pancakes and pork omelets with Lomilomi toatos; or for dinner Kahuku shrimp ravioli, or kona lobster.

More casual dining like Chai’s Island Bistro in neighborhoods like Kapahulu or Haleiwa neighborhoods.

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Dreaming of…Oahu

We’re hoping to go to Hawaii a year from now – when my husband has a conference in Oahu. So time to start gathering some string on Oahu and beyond starting with this mention in the NYT’s recent list of 41 places to go in 2011. (Hope that still holds true for 2012.).

Disney is opening a resort in Oahu called Aulani – part of the Kolina Resort and Marina – that will emphasize Hawaiian culture rather than Mickey Mouse and Co.  This culture apparently includes hula lessons and lei making. Not sure this will be my thing….

But…there’s also a new boutique hotel opening – the Waikiki Edition, a Marriott concocted by Ian Schrager. IT’s not on the each but five minutes a way and includes a restaurant by Iron Chef Masaharu Morimoro; yoga; and a surf-and-bikini bootcamp (whatever the heck that is.)

Perhaps my best bet is the new visitors center and museum at Pearl harbor – with interactive exhibits about the famous attack told from both the American and Japanese perspective.

And then maybe I need to hightail it to Maui and rural Kauai…

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Hawaii – things to remember

D.  may have a biz trip to Hawaii in two years and I hope to tag along.    From a recent NYT article comes these suggestions (the more economical, interesting ones) when visiting the Big Island:

– Kaawa Loa Plantation guest house – kaawaloaplantation.com – doubles from $125.

– Shipman House B&B – with weekly hula lessons. (can’t miss that.)

Coffee trail stops: Bong Brothers Coffee; Hilo Coffee Mill, Kona Blue Sky Coffee, Mountain Thunder Kona Coffee

Beaches – Hapuna Beach (sunbathing); Kaunaoa Beach (hotel resort beach but all these are open to the public, surprisingly) Kealakekua Bay (snorkeling) Papkolea Beach (green sand? green sand.)

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