Category Archives: THE EAST COAST

Back to Bloomsburg, PA – same good west end ale house, better motel (quality inn), Fog and flame coffee

Baseball practice outside motel

It’s still a long haul to get here in one day from Chicago, some 600 miles, about 10 hours factoring in a few irritating construction tie-ups on I-80. We had smooth sailing through most of Indiana and Ohio but then a 25 minute delay as the traffic piled up with a lane closure due to construction.

Pennsylvania’s wooded hills and wide river valleys are beautiful but driving up and down the Appalachian mountains, on the highway, sharing the road with big trucks, is a little hairy. Fortunately it wasn’t raining as as in the past and we only drove about a half hour in the dark.

The west end ale house kitchen in downtown Bloomsburg closes at 10 and we pulled in at 9:35. They couldn’t have been nicer, as was the case last year, and the cheeseburger was good. We met four nice young townies sitting outside next to us, thx to Millie dog talk, and they told us a bit about Bloomsburg University, which has 18,000 students and a party school rep, that has gone down a bit in recent years. (They seemed sad about that.) They were alumni in their later 20s. One was a stone mason, another a teacher with job corps. we drove around the campus which is high on a hill at the end of Main Street and has some pretty old buildings. (Fun fact: the gruff coach for the bad boy 1990s Detroit pistons is an alum. We passed Chuck Daley way on campus… the tip-off!)

Fog and Flame

We stayed at the Quality Inn which was hard to find – at the edge of a nondescript mall. A big bowl of dog biscuits awaited at the front desk and the place already seemed a step up from the Red Roof that we stayed at last year. The place was full of young baseball players (Williamsport, the little league World Series location is nearby). But our room was quiet. Coffee at fog and flame, the local coffeehouse was ok. Cute decor. Pastries lacking.

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Scenic route 116, Minifactory in Bristol, swimming hole search lands in Waitsfield, Honey road /Burlington, shelburne Farms – Vermont

Shelburne farms

99 degrees is highly unusual for Vermont but this is our lot yesterday and today. We drive south on scenes two-lane route 116 to the small town of Bristol where we had lunch at minifactory, a cool contemporary space: excellent food, very slow service. It took 45 minutes to get our food. I had a very basic entree- delicious flaky griddle buttermilk biscuit with homemade cream cheese and homemade rhubarb cherry jam. The restaurant’s odd name comes from its honey-based Jam-making minifactory. Noah and dirck had more complicated sandwiches but still… the place wasn’t that packed.

Microfactory

There were a few shops to wander in (vermont honeylights) and a pretty village green – less pristine than real and functional. We drove through nearby Middlebury college. In Bristol we also drove around the Tillerman, a 1797 farmhouse that is now an inn, restaurant and concert performance space. Looks great. It was closed on a Monday.

Honey Road

Our search for a place to swim in the river proved frustrating. I wasn’t willing to risk the huge slippery boulders leading to the enticing falls and flats. We watched teenage kids do crazy high drives from big rocks (and later learned a kid was killed in this area a day earlier.) We also got a $15 ticket for parking along the rural road, behind many other parked cars that also got tickets. Finally we ended up where we should Have begun- the perfect river entry spot in Waitsfield– shallow entry, sand not rocks or slippery boulders!

Dinner was inventive Mediterranean food at James Beard-nominated Honey Road. Very good. Reasonably priced.

On our last day we braved Shelburne Farms, a historic farm south of Burlington with surprisingly grand buildings that barely resembled barns – lots of heavy brick, wood, and copper. After a half hour of heat, we got back on the bus for the drive across fields with hay being harvested to the parking area. Next time I’d like to get to the Shelburne museum and house with an inn and gardens. The photos I took are crazy, like something out of a Gothic movie.

Although we were warned on Monday that our flight home on Tuesday was imperiled by possible thunderstorms in Chicago and advised to rebook, we found no great option so took our chances. The plane left on time but was stuck on the runway for maybe 20 minutes due to a thunderstorm…in Burlington. Then we were off, and arrived in Chicago on time. Noah also made it back to DC (a day late, after his flight was cancelled for no obvious reason.)

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Waitsfield, Warren, yurt-building in mad river valley, VT

I never feel like I’m in Vermont unless I visit a tiny small town so I took a brief break from helping my cousin build a yurt on his land outside Waterbury to visit two tiny and lovely small towns.

Warren general store

Warren has a handful of pristine white 19th century classic Vermont buildings – church with a steeple, general store with worn floors and pricey goods, from vermonty things (maple syrup ) to imported French ceramic chickens, and the lovely Pitcher Inn (which locals report has a very good restaurant). The general store also has baked goods, fried chicken, sandwiches (soup of day: vichyssoise.) Its also home to Warren Falls, one of Vermont’s favorite swimming holes. A small waterfall with water cascading down boulders runs behind the inn and general store.

The Pitcher Inn, Warren

A little further north on route 100 is Waitsfield, which has a good artisans gallery, a covered bridge and a popular river swimming and tubing spot. A flatbread place serves good pizza. This is the Mad River valley near sugar bush ski area. Very lush green fields, winding roads, gentle mountains.

Waitsfield river swimming

We came here to help my cousin build a yurt on his land in Duxbury, in the woods high above a refreshing pond. It’s hard and unfamiliar work, lugging wood planks, sawing, drilling, hammering, but fun to be working along side other family and friends. I’ve learned how to use an electric drill to insert screws and how to plane wood boards (smoothing down the sharp edges.) and how to team up to pull a tarp over the rising yurt during a sudden downpour.

I emerge from the woods with a damp saw-dust-flecked t-shirt. There’s been 10-20 of us, from vermont, Montreal, Connecticut, DC, Chicago; kids playing in the woods and pond;, dogs demanding to be thrown sticks; communal meals where we rest, eat surprisingly well, gaze out at the green field, pond, woods, sometimes threatening clouds, and get to know each other.

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Autumn First, myer’s bagels, “Vermont-y Things”(Common Deer, Belleville bakery, frog hollow), Henry’s diner – Burlington, VT

Autumn First turned out to be the perfect spot to meet my sister and her husband for an early lunch before they drove north to Montreal (only 2 hours away.) I gather it may be cheaper to fly and drive from Burlington than to fly to Montreal; I also gather crossing the border in this age of hostility toward Im/migrants isn’t a hassle..at least for people not of color.

Autumn First

A bakery, cafe, and coffee shop with a casual, warm, independent, alternative and earthy vibe Autumn First offered vegetable-forward breakfast and lunch ( avocado toast, mushroom toast with ricotta and a fried egg..a little too sweet flavored), grain bowls either protein options, blts and turkey sandwiches. And blueberry muffins,, koughin-ammans, baguettes. Excellent maple lemonade too. And located downtown but not on the pedestrian corridor.

In downtown Burlington, which is beset by road construction, we found some excellent vermont maker shops around the Church Street Market place: common deer for maple syrup to posters and jewelry; frog hollow for pottery, watercolors, glasswork by Vermont artists, Belleville bakery for excellent croissants, and soft cookies (peanut butter, ginger without the snap).

Burlington facade

We met Burlington friends at Henry’s diner, celebrating its 100th bday and I can see why. Cool old train car atmospheric, classic breakfast fare, good quick service.

We picked up fresh out of the wood-fired oven, Montreal style bagels at Myer‘s. Good chewy consistency but surprisingly flavorless. Maybe a little salt in the batter would help?

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Zero Gravity brewpub, Ben and Jerry’s – hello Burlington (Vt)

I don’t think I’ve ever flown into vermont before today. We always arrived after long car rides from Michigan (when I was a kid. My mother loved this state). Two years ago we drove to Burlington from Ithaca (after driving from Chicago to Ithaca).

Morning in Vermont

The Vermont airport was pleasantly small and we had our quickest rental car procurement ever. Five people behind the Avis counter. no line.

Zero gravity dining

We drove our goofy white Kia soul (a box on wheels) to zero Gravity, a brewpub downtown to meet my cousin and his friend for a late lunch. Excellent fried chicken sandwich, “dirty fries“ (w/ bits of pork), Caesar salad and a grapefruit cider (from vermont). With rain in the forecast, I needed a coat and found one for $19.99 at sierra outfitters, a discount store next to tjmaxx with remarkably cheap outdoor wear.

Dirck and Ben and Jerry

Dinner tonight was at Ben & Jerry’s – yes, ice cream for dinner! When in vermont…the ice cream shop is downtown on the pedestrian corridor (aka Church street). I’ve only eaten this ice cream from small store-bought tubs. It was fun to go into a shop with big tubs of 15 or so flavors (chocolate therapy is one fav.) and exceedingly friendly young scoopers offering samples.

We walked along the Burlington greenway, a paved two lane trail through woods hugging shimmering lake Champlain, with the Adirondacks in the distance. Bikes zipped past us on what I assume was a former rail line. The trail goes right past my cousins condo, which has a sweeping view of green lawn and grass and sun breaking through the clouds onto the lake. Tonight we had drinks with old friends from our Des Moines Register days (30 years ago), sitting on the lovely front porch of their stately 1917 house on Union street.

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Reposting: museum of the American revolution, independence hall,liberty bell, Frieda, Pesto – Philadelphia

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Museum of the American Revolution, Independence Hall, liberty Bell, Frieda — Philly

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March 14

Indy hall
Revolutionary museum

Beautiful weather at last, the wind and cold is gone, the sun and blue sky remained. Perfect day to be a tourist in this, America’s first capital city. The Brits were particularly keen on visiting the attractions commemorating their country’s historic loss of territory and so we went to the well-done museum of the American Revolution, which has lots of mini-films with re-enactments of battles and other significant moments and hands on stuff for kids.

Frieda’s

Lunch was light, delicious and convenient at Frieda’s (thank you to our favorite Philly public school teacher for that recommendation.) good salads, sandwiches, pastries and rugalach in bright cheerful space. onto independence hall where we missed our timed entrance ny five minutes and fortunately got on a later tour. (Tix were sold out for the day by 3 pm.) The guide was excellent.

The bell

Very dramatic presentation and pretty cool to see the room where it happened with George Washington and Ben Franklin et. al. Across the street we caught the liberty bell in a rare tourist-free moment where we had it all to ourselves..dinner was in south Philly, Italian of course, a red sauce (actually “rose” or creamy red sauce place) called Pesto where our server talked the teacher from south Philly on Abbott Elementary.

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Philly post reposted —-Barnes Foundation, city center, Reading Terminal market, kalaya Thai in Fishtown – Philadelphia

Somehow this post didn’t land on my blog site so reposting it for posterity!

March 12

It’s not everyday that you get to vacation with three of your closest friends who live far away and far from each other but here we are in Philly. How great is that?!

We’re staying in a very old red brick row on a narrow one-block lane in center city, mid-1800s we think. Charming, centrally located Airbnb. With narrow planked wood floors, a tight twisting, low ceiling wood staircase, small pretty rooms, a tiny back yard with a flowering tree of some unknown sort with pink blossoms.

A 25 minute walk in a blustery cold and blindingly bright sunny morning took us through graceful old Rittenhouse Square to the fantastic Barnes Foundation. Fascinating place. I feel like returning today.

The museum is in a very contemporary building with a Japanese feel. The art is uniquely displayed, as prescribed by the original collector. Each room has a mishmash of work carefully arranged (Renoir, cezanne, Monet, among the heavy hitters and lots of unfamiliar names and some no name folk art plus textiles, African sculptures, a micro rug…) symmetry and all, plus interesting metal utilitarian objects that when hung on the wall call attention to their decorative features. Old Pennsylvania Dutch hand painted chests and other antiques are also displayed in each room, just so.

It may sound precious but it’s more ingenious and mysterious. After awhile I gave up trying to see everything or trying to figure out the thinking behind the odd juxtapositions and just let my eye wander to whatever caught my eye. Literally. Apparently I am a Rousseau and Modigliani fan. And folk art, which is no surprise. 

To each their own. Myra’s eye for example was caught by completely different work. It was fun to watch docents and teachers in action with young school kids. Oh and there are no informational labels. You can take a photo of a work on your cellphone and a description will pop up. The app also lets you keep a record of the work that most grabbed you. Cool!

Lunch was at very busy Reading terminal food hall. Tons of stalls and a bit overwhelming at first but a great local scene. We planted ourselves at a central food cart table and took turns foraging. The beef brisket sandwich was even better than the sliced pork with broccolini sandwich that was recommended to me by a local. Excellent German sweet chocolate cake.

Dinner was at Kalaya, a lively fun scene-y place in fishtown that is well regarded nationally. I found the Thai food a bit too complicated (and pricey.) I should have learned by now that the NYTimes annual list of innovative American restaurants plucked is not always a sure thing.

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Wilkes-Barre PA, mist in the Poconos, Poughkeepsie Walkway over the Hudson

There was rain and mist in the mountains as we left our unlovely motel and drove further north and east, stopping for coffee in what turned out to be the interesting city of Wilkes-Barre. It reminded me a little of Easton, my mom’s hometown with old redbrick row houses with white wood railing. But Wilkes-Barre had surprisingly grand old buildings, some banks or fraternal organizations, and two small colleges with pretty old buildings. A bridge over the river with eagle sculptured pediments, worthy of Europe. A memorial to fallen coal miners. Seemed a faded, once mighty industrial city on the rebound.

The most spectacular and unexpected building was a mosque with four minerets that could have been in Istanbul. Apparently it was a Shriners temple, built in the early 1900s. Abandoned, with some busted windows but perhaps slated for restoration.

Wilkes-Barre

We found good coffee and pastries at Abide, which welcomed Millie, our dog, inside. Another nearby coffeehouse, Pour, looked like a good option too.

Confirming Pennsylvania’s swing state status in the upcoming presidential election, we saw a Harris Walz sign near the Jewish center of King’s College and a nasty “ F—k Biden” sign in the window of a faded apartment building. Another window in the building had a “Catholics for Trump” sign.

The sky began to clear as we drove though the Poconos to the Hudson River, crossing into Poughkeepsie, enough so we could sit outside at the Palace diner, old school with shiny aluminum siding, and eat brunch while passing customers made a fuss over Millie. We had one mishap. Millie balked at climbing the metal grated steps leading up to the dramatic walkway over the Hudson, fashioned from a former rail bridge. We found a hill she could walk up to get on the bridge and walked about half the bridge span, soaking in the spectacular river views, and then took the handy elevator down and walked uphill the to our car.

Walkway over the Hudson

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Ohio Turnpike, Milan (Ohio) Melon Days, West End Ale Haus (Bloomsburg, PA) – Driving from Chicago to the Hudson Valley (NY)

As a kid driving from suburban Detroit to eastern Pennsylvania with my mom, I was excited when we first crossed the Ohio border into western Pennsylvania, only to soon discover (or remember) how long Pennsylvania is. Still, as we drive on I-80 today, decades later, I’m happy to leave the flat straight Ohio turnpike behind, in favor of a mountainous stretch of I-80 lined with trees (although preferably not driven in the rain).

Great dog-Friendly find

Unlike Iowa I-80 rest stops which have many appealing amenities (trust me), the Ohio turnpike rest-stop west of Cleveland offered no picnic tables or outdoor spaces to eat our picnic fare, let alone with a dog. Grrr. So we ended up taking a brief detour to the small town of Milan, west of Cleveland, which we learned is the home of Thomas Edison. We didn’t see his house, that we know of, but we saw many stately wood Victorian and 19th century red brick homes.

The town was packed with people attending the annual Milan Melon Days (as the street banner we drove under informed us). We found a public park with many picnic tables under a shelter, old playground equipment, and a pleasant view of a grassy slope lined with willow and pine trees. Worked.

Why does it always rain on highway 80 along the scenic but scary stretch through the mountains of western Pennsylvania? At least this trip, the rain was intermittent and Dirck was driving. (I had a much scarier ride years ago while driving solo with the kids in a downpour. Lots of trucks, curving road.)

We got lucky with a terrific dog-friendly pub (thanks Bringfido.com) m, the West End Ale Haus, in the small town of Bloomsburg, where we showed up just before the kitchen closed at 9 p.m. The server couldn’t have been nicer and the cheese burgers were perfect. We were the only diners outside on a Saturday night, with the occasional souped -up car dragging Main Street. Millie enjoyed her strawberry Greek yoghurt frozen treat.

Now we are at a somewhat grim but dog- friendly red roof inn a few miles east (Bloomsburg-Mifflinville).The woman at the front desk looked miserable and when I asked how she was doing, she said she had a headache and no Tylenol so I fished some ibuprofen out of the glove compartment for her.

No breakfast so I won’t get my on-the-road Raisin Bran fix. No carpet in our spacious but spartan room, disabled accessible, which was okay until about 1:45 am when people arrived above us in what I’m guessing was also an uncarpeted room. They sounded like a bunch of elephants dragging roller bags and rearranging the furniture for hours. Who needs sleep?

Milan, Ohio

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Adventure at sea(or in the sound) – Thimble islands, Connecticut

Damsels no longer in distress

I can perhaps be forgiven for humming the theme from Gilligan’s Island as we walked along the dock, returning safely to our sweet Branford abode. The old friends from Iowa set off on a one-two hour tour around the scenic Thimble Islands in the Long Island Sound, when the weather did not start getting rough but our small motor boat hit a hidden rock way out in the water. We kept going without incident, enjoying the scenery, the houses improbably perched on narrow slabs of rock and forest, until we got near the shore and our dock.

The motor crapped out.

We started drifting until it was wisely decided to drop anchor. Then we had about an hour to figure out a rescue plan before I needed to drive to Tweed airport in New Haven to catch my flight back to Chicago. A Sea Tow service couldn’t get there fast enough.

The rescue

Just when I began seriously contemplating swimming sans proper swimsuit to shore (about a 15 minute swim…), neighbors Max Roberts and Jeff Hoyt came to the rescue, towing our boat with their’s. We quickly made it to shore, I did final packing, Nell made me a delicious sandwich, and we added another tale to tell about our storied friendship. And here I am blogging on the plane home, thankful for good friends and good neighbors too.

Thimbles

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