Category Archives: 3) DESTINATIONS — in the U.S.

Things to do in Hawaii – advice from a friend who lived there.

 

 

Here are recommendations on things to do in Hawaii from a friend who used to live there:

 

Big Island

Akaka Falls

Volcano Nat’l Park

CUTE LITTLE ZOO ON HILO SIDE

BAY WHERE CAPTAIN COOK DIED –  NEAR TOWN OF CAPTAIN COOK

CITY OF REFUGE – ON THE WATER; STATE PARK;  GOOD  SWIMMING AROUND IN NEARBY BEACH

Honolulu

Bishop Museum

Academy of Art  — (GOT TO MAKE RESERVS IN ADVANCE FOR LUNCH THERE)

Iolani Palace

Chinatown

Waikiki Aquarium  ( very small,  right near/on the beach)

Hanauma Bay

The drive from Hanauma Bay to wherever the road turns away from directly by the water – before Waimanalo

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Dining in Honolulu and on the Big Island

We’re starting to make some advance reservations for dinners in Hawaii. Here’s what’s on tap:

– Alan Wong’s – a gourmet splurge in Honolulu and favorite of our foodie first family in the White House

– Merriman’s – in Waimea on the Big Island

– Kilauea Lodge in Volcano, Hawaii (Big Island – we’re also staying at the lodge.)

Also on our list but no reservations:

In Honolulu:

Duke’s

Helena’s Hawaiian Food (on School Steet and Houghtailing.) Very crowded and only open Tues-Friday from 10-7.

MALASADAS AT LEONARD’S Bakery (malasadas are a portugese doughnut-like pastry)

JIMBO’S (1936 S King St Ste 103 Honolulu)  – HOME-MADE SOBA NOODLES AND MOCHI; HOLE IN THE WALL BUT “ONO”  (delicious)

ZIPPY’S –  (for “PLATE LUNCH”) –  is a fast food/diner type of place that’s been around for ages – multiple locations. (Also heard about Rainbow drive-in for plate lunch; another alleged Obama favorite.)

 

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The connection between Cornwall, Connecticut and Hawaii’s Big Island: who knew?

In preparation for our upcoming trip to Hawaii, I’m reading Sarah Vowell’s book  Unfamiliar Fishes which traces the history of the U.S. annexation/Americanization of  Hawaii  in 1898, which began with the efforts of  New England missionaries in the 1820’s to Christianize the islanders.

To date, I’ve learned that some of the Yanks who arrived, full of Christian fervor, in 19th century Hawaii – first landing their boat on the Big Island’s western shore, where I will be landing in a plane in January –  had spent time in Cornwall, Connecticut, a sleepy little village in the state’s bucolic northwest corner where my husband and I happened to stop en route to the Berkshires in September.  Small world.

There’s even a plaque in  Cornwall marking the former grave site of  Hawaiian Henry Opukahaia – credited with helping bring the Yankee missionaries to his homeland – who was originally buried there in 1818.  An orphan, he found his way to New Haven where he converted to Christianity, got swept up in the missionary fervor, and went to a school run by missionaries in Cornwall. He ended up dying at 26 in Cornwall before he could return to Hawaii to spread the Good Lord’s word. His remains were transferred to Hawaii in 1993 where they’re in a vault facing the seat at Kahikolu Church in the town of Nao’opo’o, Kona on the Big Island. (Might be worth a visit.)

Overall, I’m finding  Vowell’s book a good preparation for Hawaii (both in understanding Hawaii’s  history and culture and in figuring out what to see  there) and a good read, although it is definitely not your typical historical tome, punctuated as it is by Vowell’s  rambling digressions, oft-witty asides and commentary linking the past and present, plus her apparent disdain for organizing her dense copy into chapters.  (I’m half way through and so far the book is one very long chapter.)

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Hints for Hawaii – Big Island and Oahu!

This from a friend in the know…

On the Big Island, we really liked the west coast area around Kona. It’s very different from anything else I have ever seen: black sand beaches, lots of black lava rocks, etc. You can see the place where Captain Cook was killed, too. Hilo is a dump, in my view. Rainy and bad hotel options. The national park is cool, and there is a good chance you will see lava flowing. We felt we pretty much saw the park in one full day. We are big Maui people. It’s our favorite island.

In Honolulu, I would recommend the royal palace. Jackie and I both toured it and found it very interesting. It’s basically in downtown. The area where you are staying in Honolulu will be busy and crowded, but also fun. We like a restaurant called Duke’s that’s right on the strip. Basic food at reasonable prices, and a good salad bar. Climbing up to the top of Diamond Head in Honolulu is also fun, and not that hard. We really like a place called the Side Street Inn in Honolulu. Great, local asian food that only the locals know about. It’s in a bit of a spotty neighborhood, but very good food. Go early, so you have a better chance of getting a table. If you want to see the apartment where Obama grew up, it’s pretty easily found, too. Just a couple miles from where you will be staying.

The island hops on Hawaiian Airlines are really easy and usually on schedule, if that’s how you are getting between places.

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Yes we can…bike in Hawai’i Volcanoes National Park

I found a place that has half day and full day bike tours through Hawaii Volcanoes National Park – for $99 vs. $129 per person. Kinda pricey but includes bike rental and some other handy things like a guide and sag wagon. More details below and at: info@bikevolcano.com

The next question is if we can just rent a bike – and not take the tour….

 

BIKE VOLCANO SUMMIT TOUR SPECIALBIKE VOLCANO SUMMIT TOUR SPECIAL – {Half Day Tour}

Our Summit Tour Special is the perfect way to be introduced to the Hawaii Volcanoes National Park. The short duration of this tour allows you ample time to explore other beautiful areas of the Big Island of Hawai’i.
{10am – 1pm daily; 1pm – 4pm b.o.d.}

 

HAWAII VOLCANOES NATIONAL PARK & WINE TASTING BIKE TOURBIKE HAWAII VOLCANOES NATIONAL PARK & WINE TASTING – Full Day Tour

A day tour of the Hawaii Volcanoes National Park followed by an optional wine tasting session at the Volcano Winery.

{10am – 3pm daily}

 

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Following in my parents’ tire treds – in Hawaiʻi Volcanoes National Park

I often end up going places – from the Dordogne region of France to Grafton, Vermont and Columbus, Indiana (an unlikely architectural hotspot) – because my parents went before me.   I  am driven not only by vague memories of their travel tales but because I inherited their tastes and sensibilities (if not their budget.)

Soooo, when I was trying to figure out where to go in Hawaii, the main reason I  settled on visiting the Big Island and its Hawaiʻi Volcanoes National Park  is a vague memory of my parents’ story about riding a bike into a dormant volcano there. Sure enough, here’s my dad’s  recollection of  that trip – which makes me want to go all the more…and on a bike! (Note to self: find out if/where we can rent bikes at the national park.)

We did a bike trip around the big island many moons ago. There is one road that circles the island at the high level…it goes thru several kinds of climate from rain forest to barren lava beds. We would stay at hotels near the water, ride up the big hill to get to the road, ride down to have lunch by the water, ride up again and then ride till the end of the day and come back to the water. The only change was when we got to the volcano where we stayed overnight in the hotel right next to the volcano mouth. Some hardy soles actually rode their bike up the hill but mom and I opted for a sag-wagon ride. In the morning we could then walk out onto the volcano which still had some small smoking holes. The next morning was the culmination of the trip. We rode our bikes down the mountain, coasting for almost 2 hours without peddling once. The final miles were down the route of the Ironman marathon, which was run uphill in the opposite direction. There was a town near the base of the volcano that was famous for being the home of the hippies…more pot smoke came up from the town than from the volcano. Don’t neglect buying macadamia nuts while you are there…they are the single most caloric food possible. Also, the Kona coffee is a major tasting.

My dad adds:  It was an organized bike trip, either VBT or another like it.While there I bought a tee shirt that said I did the Iron Man…people looked at me differently when I wore it. Same result as when I wore the Ragbrai jacket.

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Where to stay on Hawaii’s Big Island: can the mags/books/websites be trusted?

So I’m elbow deep in thick guidebooks trying to figure out the best (my “”best” definition: the most interesting/authentic, least expensive/resort/chain-like) place to stay on Hawaii’s Big Island and fine myself torn about two B&Bs in Volcano, Hawaii (right by the National Volcano Park).

I’ve gone to the websites for each and watched the videos and slide shows and scanned the maps and read the testimonials. I’ve looked at one room after another, even one B&B’ s  floor plans. Does it really make a difference if the proprietor was born and raised in Volcano – or a relatively recent transplant from Oklahoma?  Do I care that one serves a hot breakfast, the other a cold; one serves organic fruit, the other fruit not billed as organic? And to think I used to just travel without booking a place to stay – let alone the absolutely perfect place to stay, whose every crevice I am familiar with in advance.

This researching also raises the question of whether to trust the opinion of various travel magazines and guidebooks.  Having written for both, I sometimes wonder what their criteria is for choosing “the 25 best” or “the 10 places we love” etc.  (A recent example – Forbes Magazine recently selected the Des Moines neighborhood I live in as one of America’s 12 prettiest. It’s nice enough but one of the top 12? Looking closer, I saw that a Des Moines magazine editor helped do the picking.)

Back to Hawaii: B&B#1  appears to be the darling of the travel mags (two have given it a major thumbs up) and it is the cheapest. But judging from the websites of each, it  looks rather drab compared to B&B #2 which is more cheerfully decorated, gets respectful reviews in two guidebooks (as does B&B #1) ,  has its share of local “Best of” awards, and was selected as a stopover by a respected walking tour company. True it’s $70 more a night, which one guidebook says is a “con” because it’s overpriced for the area.  But I may just have to go with my gut on this one.

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Walking the Big Island in Hawaii

I’m starting to think we should visit the Big Island during our trip to Hawaii in January, which will start with a conference in Honolulu.  I’ve gotten some suggestions from VBT’s walking tours catalog – including visiting Pu’uhonua o Hanaunau,  Hawaii Volcanoes National Park, Hamakua Coast/Wilamea/Anna’s Ranch , Kohala Coast, Hilo and staying at: Kilauea Lodge, Hilo Hawaiian Hotel, Hapuna Beach Prince Resort.

Any other suggestions welcome!

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Hints for Hawaii

Time to start gathering string for our trip to Hawaii in January. YES!

A friend emailed from there the other day with these suggestions: this is my fifth time here. I love it. Oahu, Maui and the Big Island are my favorites. Lots to see on Oahu: Pearl Harbor, Diamond Head, North Shore where the waves are much bigger, Dole plantation. You will have a blast. Stay as long as you can because it’s a long flight. We are on Kauai, Maui and Oahu on this 10-day trip. Aloha!

Also read in AAA magazine that it’s possible to find low key interesting b&Bs on the Big Island for about $150 a night. I’d love to find something akin to Panama’s laid-back hippish Bocas Del Toro in Hawaii.

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Mass MOCA – for huge art!

Last week, we thoroughly enjoyed a visit to the Massachusetts Museum of Contemporary Art (aka Mass MOCA) in the old factory town of North Adams, near Williamstown. It was raining, which made it easier to spend a September day inside – and we were impressed not only by the exhibits but the building itself – a huge sprawling weathered old factory. The show on oppressed workers (see description below) was engrossing – as was the semi-permanent (“on view through 2033” according to the website) retrospective of bold colorful Sol LeWitt wall paintings (especially engrossing was a video of young people creating  these paintings, following LeWitt’s instructions.)

I thought the Tate Modern in London was huge – but Mass MOCA is even huger and the enormity of some of the art installations (by Nari WArd and Katarina Grosse) is astonishing. The museum also has a good cafe (Lickety Split) with large well-done salads and sandwiches. And if it had not been raining, would have been fun to poke around town a bit, especially some of the galleries that have sprung up in the wake of Mass MOCA.

THE WORKERS exhibit: “What does work look like today in a global economy marked by outsourcing, rapid migration, disruptive economies, and a state of labor that seems fractured, precarious, and almost invisible? With video, sculpture, photography, and performance art from 25 artists, this exhibition examines the way labor is represented today (and how some contemporary workers choose to represent themselves). “

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