Category Archives: 3) DESTINATIONS — in the U.S.

Greetings from bentonville,ar–crystal Bridges museum. Wow!

We were not disappointed by Crystal Bridges museum here. We were bowled over. It is not like any museum I have been to. The museum is a series of dramatic copper,stone, wood and glass buildings built over a ravine deep in the woods.Everything about it is  impressive. The architecture, modern American art collection, the stunning landscaped trails adorned with sculpture and gardens, the gorgeous museum restaurant with sophisticated  but affordable food, the innovative children’s area (which we adults learned from too). Did I mention it’s all free, including the shuttle that took us from a nearby park to the museum’s dramatic entrance –a tower with a wide view of the museum’s spread out grounds. The collection is varied, impressive and beautifully displayed in well laid out spaces. I saw both familiar and unfamiliar artists work.

We also poked around the very spiffy town square, including the Walmart visitors center, disguised as an old five and dime. It’s where Sam Walton’s first store was and we were surprised to find the displays interesting. Dinner was at aq chicken in Springdale, full of photos of bill Clinton from his chicken eating days. We are staying at a refreshingly nice microtel, a major step up from the awful days inn we stayed at last night in butler,mo. Also had good frozen custard at Andy’s down the road in Rogers,Ark.  Oddly, there is another one in Evanston,Illinois where our son goes to college. Anyway, this is my first post via iPad. Cool. And we had a really nice 22nd anniversary today.

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Off to Arkansas for the weekend

Eureka Springs
Eureka Springs
Eureka Springs
Eureka Springs
Eureka Springs

Arkansas? Yes. Arkansas. I’m surprised by how surprised my fellow Iowans seem that we’re going to Arkansas for Memorial Day weekend (and to mark our 22nd wedding anniversary). True, it is a long drive  for a three day weekend – about 6.5 hours to Bentonville. (Bentonville? Yes. Bentonville). But we like road trips and stopping along the way at whatever grabs our attention. And we like Arkansas. We haven’t been there in over, um, 22 years, come to think of it, but Eureka Springs (where we’ll be staying on Sunday night) is a pretty old Ozarks resort town with old hippies and avid Christians, as I recall.

We’re staying overnight at bare bones motel in Butler, Mo; then driving to Bentonville on Saturday, where we’ll visit the new Crystal Springs, a new American art museum  created by a Wal-Mart heiress that’s designed by Moshe Safdie.  (The museum showcases a reportedly impressive art collection and also has a sculpture garden and nature trails that wind through 120 acres of forests, gardens and ponds.) We’ll eat at AQ (“Arkansas Quality”) Chicken in nearby Springdale/

On Sunday we’ll explore Eureka Springs and splurge on non-motel accommodations, staying at Rock Cottage Gardens, a spruced up former motor court. Dinner options include Gaskins Cabin (for steak) or Ermillios or DeVito’s (Italian.) Several restaurants aren’t open on Sunday including Bubba’s which looks like it has good bbq. Not sure if Mud Street Cafe is open.

We may also stop in Joplin, Mo. en route to see how the city is recovering from the horrendous tornado that leveled a large part of the city a year ago. (We’ve been driving for several years through Greensburg, Ks. and watching it rebuild after a tornado several years ago.)

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Oregon greatest hits (from our 2010 trip there)

My sister-in-law and brother-in-law are going to Portland, Oregon and driving down to Sonoma, Ca. Don’t know their route but here are some greatest hits from our visit there two years ago. For more details, click on the “Portland” and “Oregon” categories on my blog:

Portland:

We stayed at Cafe Deluxe (fun, funky, reasonably priced).  Cafe Lucia is sister hotel, more centrally located, place where masseuse accused poor Al Gore of groping her awhile back. Or some such.

Columbia River Gorge: well worth the drive. Columbia River gorge, old observatory, Multnomah (sp?) Falls, crossing the bridge to Stevenson, WA.

Restaurants, starting with the best on down (all good): Pok Pok (strange Thai place – book way ahead); Kenny and Zuke’s deli; Clyde Commons, Portland Farmer’s Market.

Oregon coast:

Newport:  Sylvia Beach Hotel (homage to writers, quirky place) and Saffron Salmon (probably our best meal in Oregon and we wouldn’t have found it without strong recommendation from locals) Check out nearby Salishan Lodge and Yakina Head Lighthouse

Manzanita: pretty beach; stayed at good place

Cannon Beach: too manicured

Astoria: didn’t get there. next time!

Jacksonville: Rouge River Valley wine tasting, beautiful area near Medford

Ashland: Again near Medford – excellent Shakespeare, shopping, restaurants.

Crater Lake: gorgeous

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whither The Carmelcorn Shop in Easton PA? It’s alive!

I STAND CORRECTED. The Carmelcorn Shop LIVES! My friend C. reported that it was closed when she dropped by but is open otherwise. Phew!

C.  emailed me this photo of  the candy shop that I loved to go to as a kid when I visited my Grandma in Easton, Pa.  C. was in town on a college visit to Lafayette College.  She also reports that Jimmy’s Hot dogs  – another Easton hot spot – is still around. Last time I was in Easton, a few years ago, it had survived but was no longer across the Delaware in P-burg N.J. but in a strip mall in Easton. Not quite the same atmosphere but good dogs still!

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Archie Bunker’s chair! Ben Franklin’s Walking stick! American Stories exhibit at D.C.’s Smithsonian!

Fairmount Fire Company volunteer firefighting outfit

One of the more entertaining ways to soak in history is to study the history of things – so a new Smithsonian exhibit that presents history through a timeline of artifacts, including pop culture junk,  is right up my alley. The National Museum of American History’s new exhibit includes over 100 “iconic items” dating back to the Pilgrim’s arrival in 1620 (iconic item #1: a piece of Plymouth Rock.). Other items include a slave ship manifest, Dorothy’s ruby slippers from the “Wizard of Oz”,  and a Barack Obama campaign button written in Hebrew. (Hey, I have a Bill Clinton campaign button written in Hebrew!) There’s also a mobile app for the exhibit with more info on each object – in English and our new second U.S. language, Spanish. The exhibit is called American Stories and to see more of what’s in it (including the hat above) see: http://66.147.244.104/~amerifl5/americanstories/

I’ll be in DC in June and this is definitely on my list! I remember an exhibit at the Iowa State Historical Museum that took a similar approach to the sixties – that made me feel a bit like an relic myself as I pointed out to my then-little kids such once-familiar items as “hot pants.”

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Roanoke Island in Outer banks – maybe it’s fate?

So when I googled “quaint, historic, duck, outer banks” (or something like that) to find a place to stay with our English friends, google sent me to some sweet cottages in Manteo on Roanoke Island, which as fate would have it turns out to be  the site of The Lost Colony –  a 16th century colony of 117 Brits that disappeared mysteriously. So perhaps this is the perfect place to visit with our British friends (a little re-colonizing perhaps) or not?

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Filed under North Carolina, Uncategorized

Contemplating a fall trip to North Carolina’s Outer Banks: initial pros/cons

A pal from London is attending a conference in early October in Baltimore and I promised to meet her for a road trip. One early option – visiting the Outer Banks, which I’ve never been to – and long wanted to see. After some initial scrutiny of maps, airline websites and guidebooks, here are my initial pros and cons:

PROS:

  • – Fall is ideal for a visit to the Outer Banks, especially since the summer gets so crowded. The weather and even the water, often, remains warm in late Sept/early October. (see hurricanes below under CONS)
  • – There appear to be lots of good options for renting a cottage or staying at a b&b for a few days (if not a full week) – which would be good if our spouses join us.
  • –  Gorgeous seashore (175-mile ribbon of sandy islands plus national seashore with sand dunes and old lighthouses) , lots of history (including English history, plus hiding place of the everyone’s favorite pirate, Blackbeard, where the Wright brothers learned to fly and site of many shipwrecks – hence its reputation as “the graveyard of the Atlantic), quaint fishing villages, stunning beaches, things to do/see and places to eat (Carolina BBQ for the meat-eaters among us. local seafood – clam chowder, crab cakes, deep-fried hush puppies.)
  • – About that English history: Near the Outer Banks on Roanoke Island is the site of Sir Walter Raleigh’s “lost colony.”  In 1585, this was England’s first permanent foothold in the “New World” – a colony of over 100 Brits (men, women, kids). This was the location of the birth of the first child of English parents on what later became U.S. soil. The colonists appeared to disappear and history vague on details although there’s some talk of a horrific drought. (More reading advised.)

CONS:

  • – The Outer Banks are a bit of a pain to get to (which is of course, part of their attraction) and pricey to get to. The nearest airport is Norfolk, Va. which is expensive to fly to from here in Des Moines and not so easy from Baltimore (it appears that a connecting flight is necessary) – haven’t check into London. Even when you get to Norfolk the Outer Banks are still 80 miles away. Nor does there appear to be train service from Baltimore to anywhere near the Outer Banks (although I have not done exhaustive research on this.)
  • So the best bet appears to be: for me to fly from Des Moines to Washington (much cheaper than flying to Baltimore) and we meet up either in DC or Baltimore and drive – about 5/6 hours. Long, especially by English standards, but we’ve survived these drives before (including a five hour drive from London to the Lake District with five kids in tow.)
  • – The possibility of hurricanes

HOTSPOTS:

  • – Duck, Cape Hatteras National Seashore, Ocracoke Island, Beaufort (Kitty Hawk to Nags Head sound overdeveloped), Nags Head architecture tours of old beach cottages;
  • – Edenton (nearby colonial waterfront town
  • WHERE TO STAY:
  • When I looked for oceanfront rentals, I found large modern beach houses – some very pricey. When I looked up “quaint cottage duck north carolina) I found some sweet looking cottages including http://www.vrbo.com/334384#rates (Midgett House in Old Town Manteo on Historic Roanoke Island)
    Neva Midgett House corner of Uppowac and Budleigh
    Neva Midgett House corner of Uppowac and Budleigh – Manteo, North Carolina Vacation Home Near Restaurants and Shops
  • Duck b&B: Advice 5 cents. (strange name, I know) wwwadvice5.com; Cottage rentals in Duck: sun realty, Carolina designs realty, duck’s real estate (www.outerbanksrentals.com) http://www.twiddy.com

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Another sight to see when in Bentonville Arkansas

So this isn’t technically open for tourists in Bentonville, but the house owned by the director of Crystal Bridges – the new museum of American art founded by a Walton heiress – sounds definitely worth a drive-by, if I can find it when we visit Bentonville in late May.  There’s a story about the house in the April 1st  NYTimes’ Sunday T Magazine and it looks fantastic – a glass and limestone-brick home designed in 1954 by Cecil Stanfield, the same “Modernist” architect, the Times reports,  who gave a “Jetsons”-esque touch to Oral Roberts University in Tulsa (which I’ve visited twice – when Oral was holed up in his “prayer tower” during the late 1980s. Wonder if the architect designed the tower – or the strange sculpture of giant clasped hands nearby on the campus).

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searching for a low-key decor b&b in eureka springs, arkansas

My eyes are blurry after looking at so much floral wallpaper, flowery bedspreads, dark heavy drapery, thick overstuffed couches, beds adorned with stuffed bears and walls with garish art, after searching online for a bed and breakfast to stay at in Eureka Springs. A hotel may be the way to go. I found several more low-key even hip options in “The 100 Best Small Art Towns in America” which I picked up at a used book sale last summer in Southampton, N.Y. I figure if they’ve got good art, they’re worth staying at (I am, after all, the daughter of art gallery owners.) I’ve reserved a room at the Basin Park Hotel (much cheaper rates if you do online although you can’t guarantee you’ll get a nice view or quiet room online.) Other options include  the Cottage Inn and the New Orleans Hotel.

So far, the best b&b options, decor-wise, appear to be Rock Creek Gardens – a cool old motor court motel with the outside walls made of dozens of small rocks – and inside relatively low-key tasteful decor; or 11 Singleton House, which I’ve read is also fairly low-key and run by a very knowledgeable local. I also spoke to the operator of 11 Singleton who books other B&Bs in town – and is a great resource for travel in the area – and she has put me on her list for a “maybe” single night stay during Memorial Day weekend. (Most proprietors, not surprisingly, want to book all three or at least two of the nights; She also said that people aren’t booking ahead as much as they used to – could it be in part because some places don’t allow cancellation without a penalty fee?) The Treehouse cottages – newly built wood tree houses in actual trees – also look pretty cool although again, I’d appreciate more low-key furnishings, but they’re all booked. Book a one night stay on memorial day weekend may also be a challenge.

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vivace pizza, biking along the rillito trail near St. Phillips square Plaza, chopped (now choice greens) and zin burger

It was cold last Wednesday so we braved a bike ride along the wash near St. Phillips Plaza at Campbell and River, riding west. Nice level ride but it was cold riding into the wind. For lunch we ate at the former Chopped, now Choice Greens, or some such. As good as ever. That night we ate at Zin Burger – big juicy rare burger but pricey. Tuesday night, we had a good meal – pizza and salad at Vivace Pizza (in st. Phillips Plaza) Best part of Tucson: Being with my dad!

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Filed under Arizona, Tucson, Uncategorized