Category Archives: 3) DESTINATIONS — in the U.S.

February 15, 2017 · 5:10 pm

Nashville restaurant recommendations from a Pinewood Social server.

Our young server at the trendy Pinewood Social restaurant/fun house was so enthusiastic about her new hometown – Nashville – that she eagerly offered us a handwritten list of her favorite places to eat in town, even broken down by category.
Here it is: (I couldn’t always read her handwriting so some of these may not be correct spellings…)

Italian: Rolf and Daughters, Moto, Mafraoza’s
Breakfast: Fenwick’s, 300, Sky Blue (which we went to in East Nashville!)
Deli/Sandwich: Duke’s (also a bar), Mitchell
Mexican: Mas Tacos, Rosepepper, Sait Anejo
Ramen: Twoten Jack
Dessert: Five Daughters (we went there too – pricey rich donuts); Jeni’s (ice cream)
Bars: Patterson House, Bastion

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February 9, 2017 · 4:32 am

Nashville farmers market, Arnold’s Country Kitchen, original Barista Parlor and unexpected trip home via Kansas City 

Hanging at our Airbnb Lilypad.

Hanging at our Airbnb Lilypad.

Arnold’s Country Kitchen looked slightly swollen compared to my first visit three years ago. Turns out it is in the middle of an expansion. Fortunately it was open and still serving terrific meat and three sides, albeit in an lighter, less cramped space. Everything was delicious – fried chicken, roast beef, trout, kielbasa mains and sides including mashed potatoes, cauliflower casserole etc. The chess pie with meringue was too sweet for all of us. I guess one sign of nashvilles popularity is the fact that two of the places I visited three years ago have expanded (on site like Arnold’s or new location like the Family Wash).

WHile the rest of the gang went to the Country Music Hall of Fame, I explored neighborhoods some more, stopping at the farmers market in Germantown which has an indoor food court with a cool store called “Batch” that sells small batch food makers’ goods and a jam-packed international foods market. We ended up at the original Barista Parlor coffee house in east Nashville, playing scrabble and dealing with screwed up flights home. OUr flight was messed up by air traffic control issues in LA, of all places, that led our plane to arrive late and leave late from Nashville, too late for us to make our connection in St. Louis. Which is how we ended up flying unexpectedly to Kansas City and driving a rental car through the dark and fog ack to Des Moines.

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February 7, 2017 · 3:33 pm

Road trip to Franklin, Leiper’s Fork, Arrington Vineyard – Pucketts, two locayions

We got lucky  with the weather for our road trip south into Tennessee walking horse country. Following winding two lane back roads in and out of hollers, often along roads lined with fences, past Confederate battle sites, gracious old southern horse farms and garish McMansions, we stopped for a great lunch at Puckett’s – outstanding mufaletta sandwich with dirty rice, fried catfish poboys, gumbo, key lime pie in a fun old space full of music triangle memorabilia. The Sunday brunch for $17 was more than all but one of us could manage. Quite a deal.

We walked around the square (more like a circle) in tony downtown Franklin and found a few stores open (with some good sales) and Civil War sites. Also stopped in the visitors center where we got a helpful map of back roads to quaint Leiper’s Fork which was much more lively on a Sunday than when I visited on a weekday. The general store, also owned by Puckett’s, is wonderfully scruffy, with shelved lined with large cans of collard greens and bags of black eyed peas. Well heeled bikers on bicycles and motorcycles) sat at outside tables, enjoying the sun and warm temps (low 60s). A little girl walked a baby pig on a leash in a little store beside the market. Four guys on guitars played oldies inside the market by the front counter.

Onto Bailey Road south (gorgeous) and a few other roads east to Arrington Vineyards, a beautiful spread atop a hillside with great views of horse farms nearby. PLace is owned by a country singer (Kix Brooks). Good wine too. Such a fun day!

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February 6, 2017 · 12:07 am

Pinewood Social, The 5 Spot, edleys BBQ, Parnasis Books, Hattie B’s, Germantown, The Family Wash

img_0906Somehow I got to talking with An owner/manager of the trendy Pinewood Social, a “scenery” space inside an old trolley car barn that has a restaurant, retro bowling alley, pool and lively bar and he ended up sending over a birthday whiskey to Dirck and free appetizers to our table, which was a nice touch. Next stop, the 5 Spot, an east Nashville club where we found ourselves at a mad 1980s dance party full of mostly young women dancing exuberantly to the music of my youth.img_0912

In the morning, Dirck and emma shelled out a stunning $27 for six donuts at Five Daughters Bakery which was outrageous. They were good but not that good and most were not only topped with frosting but frosting filled too. Way too sweet. The best one was simply sprinkled with sugar and flakey doughy inside. We walked around our Lockeland Springs neighborhood past more renovated bungalows and new interesting very modern homes. Also lots of small entrepreneurs including a homemade chocolate corner store around the block.img_0913

  1. Lunch was at Edleys BBQ in the 12south neighborhood, across from Reese Witherspoon s clothing store, which is uber preppy, sort of a cross between Talbots and LIly Pulitzer and seems to attract a lot of Reese lookalikes who pose for photos beside a wall mural on the side of the building.Good brisket at edleys. No ribs at lunch, only dinner. We explore the Germantown neighborhood north of downtown which has more cool old homes, these ones often brick and historic, plus new condos and small independent pricey shops with names like”rich hippie.” I wandered into one seemingly abandoned old brick building in a desolate spot by between the river and railroad tracks and found myself in this cavernous shop Peter Nappi, selling incredibly expensive Italian leather shoes.
    Germantown store

    Germantown store

    Also went to a very high design coffee place called Barista, co-owned by then Black Keys’ drummer and finally found the restaurant Rolf and Daughters inside an old factory. Such is life in Nashville.

    Germantown coffee

    Germantown coffee

TOnight we tried the hot fried chicken at Hattie B’s in midtown which was fun and faster than Prince’s. MIld was hot enough for me. DIrck had medium heat and Noah dared rather hot which was too much for me. We ended up at the Family Wash, another music place which had us confused at first because it’s in a different location than when we last visited 3-4 years ago. They  specialize, oddly, in Shepards pie.

Hot chicken

Hot chicken

And low key live music. we found the original local on greenwood near The Porter Street Bistro where I had. Good brunch during my last trip here.

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February 3, 2017 · 10:57 pm

lilypad, Sky Blue Cafe, Art & Invention Gallery, the Pharmacy – East Nashville 

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Very fun day with all six of us here in East Nashville to celebrate Dirck’s 60th. We are staying in a sweet little two-bedroom Airbnb cottage on Lillian Street (aka the “lily pad”) with a foldout couch and air mattress for the two youngest in the living room.  The place is cozy with hipster cool decor, lots of old accents, thin wood slat floors, exposed brick and white subway tile and funky light fixtures in the neat little kitchen.

img_0409We walked east along Fatherland Street (kinda creepy name) lined with small fixed up bungalows and Victorians to Sky Blue Cafe, a little neighborhood corner spot with hearty creative brunch entrees (delicious  pancakes, omelettes, home fries bowls) and then walked over to the 5 Points area and visited a few shops I remember fondly from my last trip here several years ago, including Arts and Inventions, a crafts gallery (where I first discovered the fanciful birds painted y local Vicki Sawyer, who has gone on to major merchandizing…I spotted her products last month in Pasadena!) img_0897Other highlights include a few vintage clothing stores in the area, 5 Points pizza, the turnip truck market and a coolly named hotdog truck “I dream of Weenie” in an old VW camper. img_0411Last night I had an excellent brat at The Pharmacy, which also serves very fresh tasting and hefty burgers and sweet potato fries. We got birthday cupcakes at Nashville Sweets. Also visited a small shopping area with inviting small shops along Fatherland, including the wonderful Her Book Store, which was not exclusively for her…I bought a book  for a him.)img_0407

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January 14, 2017 · 3:21 pm

la Cocina, Old Town Artisans, Pima Canyon Trail – Tucson

Hiked on a perfect morning on Pima Canyon Trail yesterday (Oracle Rd. to Magee Rd east until the road ends), with my neighbor from Iowa who is on sabbatical in Tucson, then had a really nice lunch at La Cocina with Dad in the courtyard at Old Town Artsans downtown, near the art museum and EL Charro  (the famous Mexican restaurant serving carne secca). We had delicious small grilled artichokes at La Cocina and I bought a 1960s  (we think) suit (jacket and skirt) for $23 (yes $23) at a vintage clothing store on the courtyard. Also restocked my girl-gift supply with some Thai silver rings.

We also drove by a store called Bon and next door Five Pointe marketplace and cafe, which I need to check out next visit, and mid-century architecture near Broadway and Country Club/ Euclid. Next trip!

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January 12, 2017 · 6:11 am

Rillito Wash bike trail, Teresa’s Mosaic cafe – Tucson

For future reference (and to prevent a repeat of today’s long search), the stretch of the Rillito Wash bike trail in west Tucson that we rode started at the Ted  Walker park trailhead just south and a little west of the Ina exit of Interstate 10. Dad and I rode 9 miles (which is great considering that dad is rebounding after some major health issues) north from the small park on a trail that began somewhat unpromisingly, with quasi industrial scenery but quickly became more scenic, bordering a small creek lined with palo verde and other desert trees, with the mountains off on in the distance to the east and west. I was impressed by how well tended the trail was and the artwork adorning it including several mosaic panels.

Dad was a good sport to go with me for Mexican food, which he doesn’t like. We tried Teresa’s Mosaic Cafe in west Tucson off grant road west of I 10. It’s a peculiar looking place, a round greenish-blue building behind a McDonald’s that looks a bit like a spaceship or an import from the Jetsons. Inside the restaurant is more traditional festive Mexican with colorful paper banners, ceramics and paintings and a nice mountain view out the curved window. The food was pretty good although to be honest I think my carnitas are better. Their’s were big chunks with considerable fat (and not the promised crispiness). They were in light green sauce that was tasty. The homemade tortillas were as soft and fresh as advertised (we didn’t get to see them being made in the open oven area in the middle of the big curved dining room.) We were also impressed with the guacamole. The horchata (my new drink – a milky looking sweet rice and nutmeg drink) wasn’t as good as the one I had at the barrio cafe in Phoenix. (Nor was the pork, come to think of it.) but I would give this place another chance because it is colorful and has potential. Their huevos rancheros is supposed to be good.

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January 11, 2017 · 1:04 am

Catalina State Park, Tohono Chul, North Restaurant- Tucson

Always nice to have a hiking buddy and because my dad’s bum knee rules him out for this trip, I was especially pleased to hike with my neighbor Amahia from Des Moines who happens to be here on sabbatical. She hadn’t been to Catalina State Park about a mile from my dad’s house in Oro Valley so I showed her the Loop Trail, an easy and lovely scenic hike into the valley dotted with saguaros and bordered by high jagged mountains.

We had a really nice lunch outside in the garden at Tohono Chul, the lovely estate and desert garden nearby. For the first time ever, in my experience, we waltzed right in and were seated — perhaps a benefit of being here in January rather than our usual February or March. The weather was perfect, high 60s and low 70s, although quite cool at night.

Lunch yesterday with my old friend from London, Mary, who is a longtime U of Arizona professor, at a good Italian place called North in the ritzy Encantado shopping  center. Excellent grilled artichoke, bruschetta with asparagus, cheese and proscuitto and even better company!

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January 9, 2017 · 6:50 am

Public Market Cafe, Roosevelt Row – Phoenix./ Acadia Market – scottsdale

Gorgeous morning in Phoenix so I walked around on a Sunday morning near our hotel downtown. Very quiet and not many people around, except for occasional street people and farmer/conventioneers. I did find a lovely little pocket of urban pioneer hipness at the Public Market Cafe, just north of the convention center area.

The place was bustling with a mixed crowd, families, millennials, older folks, all drawn to a place with good hearty comfort food (and what looked like great bloody Mary’s.) How great was it to sit on the open air patio under a tin roof by a fireplace, estimg a light breakfast. Later  I walked a little further north to the Roosevelt row art district which is still in process, with stucco bungalows in various stages of restoration or recreation as galleries or little shops and new modern loft complexes.

The development is still spotty — at that attractive stage where you sense change is happening and you feel a sense of discovery.

Early SoHo, I call it, harkening back to the days in the 1970s when I used to visit artists with my mom in the emerging soho district of New York, long before it became overrun with artists and over commercialized.

Dad and I stopped briefly for lunch in Scottsdale at a pretty place called Arcadia farms, again eating on the outdoor patio. 79 degrees today! nice change from subzero temps in Iowa.

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January 8, 2017 · 5:45 am

Quick trip to Phoenix- Barrio Cafe,Detroit Hussle, Hyatt Regency

A very quick trip to Phoenix but long enough to try some creative Mexican food at the Barrio Cafe north of the Hyatt (where D. has a meeting this week.) The place was fun, lots of interesting people including a woman sitting at the bar who has written a book about fixing up a house in the “west village” neighborhood of Detroit. She and her husband moved to my hometown from Brooklyn, so I guess this Detroit renaissance is really happening. The book is called Detroit Hussle. We also met a cute young couple from Australia (Perth, as it happens, which I have a soft spot for because I had two friends from Perth at my kibbutz years ago who I ended up traveling with in Greece.) Interesting to hear the places they are visiting during a month-long trip to “see America.” They were in Phoenix because they went to the Grand Canyon. Next stop Vegas. All other stops were on the coasts.

The food at rhe barrio cafe was interesting. We liked the guacamole (made with pomegranate seeds) and the long cooked pork, the margaritas and horchata (a light milky drink that came in a pop bottle). The chicken mole and corn appetizer were too rich for me. Slow service, as forewarned but a good live band playing what sounded like merenge not Mexican music.

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