Category Archives: 2) Frequent Destinations

New Le’s Chinese Bar-B-Que in Des Moines – not, alas, Honolulu’s Char Siu House

  • Le's Chinese Bar-B-Que

Wandering around Honolulu’s Chinatown in January 2011, I chanced upon an amazingly good Chinese BBQ (known in Chinese as Char siu, meat seasoned with five spice, honey and other things that turn the outside skin or meat bright red)  at a hole in the wall aptly named Char Siu House (photo below), with a small counter and butcher’s block and maybe three card tables for people who want to eat in rather than carry out (like me.) I had some delicious pork, moist, full of flavor, crispy red skin. As I was eating, a food tour suddenly arrived and the guide noted that this was the Honolulu’s best Chinese BBQ place, or some such.

With this memory in mind, I finally tried New Le’s BBQ here in Des Moines (photo above)- in what passes for a Chinese ,or more accurately, an Asian,  neighborhood – on Second Avenue. (The street has  a popular Asian market, Double Dragon, that I go to every once in awhile for hard-to-find-elsewhere items and just because it’s an interesting place full of unfamiliar foods. There’s also a few Thai and Vietnamese Po restaurants.)  Le’s  has been around for years and an Asian friend recommended it. But it looked so uninviting from the outside that I passed it by – until yesterday.  I was surprised to find it was far more cheerful inside. Instead of a drab butcher shop, I found a slightly less drab restaurant with lots of empty tables (midday on a Saturday), a lit-up display on the wall of the Chinese entrees available and a case full of bbq-ed meat that left little to the imagination (still-intact ducks with spindly necks and heads, dangling from hooks,  looking like they’d been flattened by a  steam-roller; a pigs head). I ordered some duck, pork and ribs – and we tried them last night. The red crispy ribs were best – moist well-seasoned meat, tasty-edible skin.  The pork was first runner up – moist meat with a smokey flavor but lots of fat and crispy skin that wasn’t as edible as it looked. Even more of the same with the duck. Oh well.

Picture of Char Siu House, Honolulu Chinatown

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Filed under Des Moines, DINING, Hawaii

Los Angeles hot spots thanks to Delta Sky magazine!

It’s time to start collecting tips on Los Angeles which is back on my personal map-of-the-world (after 24 years or so) thanks to my brother, who has just moved there with his wife and love-her-to-pieces baby. So here’s a start, thanks to Delta Sky Magazine.
The magazine also has some recommendations from the actress Judy Greer who I didn’t realize is a fellow Detroiter. (You may not recognize her name but you’d recognize her distinctive face – she was in The Descendants (the wife of the guy who had an affair with George Clooney’s wife.)Los Angelesstarstruck

1 City 5 Ways

Marukai

Stop at Marukai in Little Tokyo. Photo by Andrea Bricco.

The sum of Los Angeles’ neighborhoods equals one hot melting pot. For an eclectic taste, head to Little Tokyo, Little India, Chinatown, Boyle Heights and Glendale and sample their bakeries, cafés, temples, curio shops, galleries and more.

TANVI CHHEDA, February 2013

A delicious Phoenix Bakery creation. Photo by Andrea Bricco.  

CHINATOWN
Morning // Phoenix Bakery
Dating back to 1938, this downtown bakery and pastry shop offers sponge cakes and butterflies (fried won tons glazed with honey) that have a cult-like following.

Midmorning // Wing Hop Fung Ginseng
The place to load up on loose teas (the blend of jasmine and green tea is a must-try), dried herbs, Yixing clay teapots and more.

Afternoon // Thien Hau Temple
This Taoist temple is dedicated to Mazu, the goddess of the sea; Guan Yu, the god of wars and brotherhood; and Fu De, the god of the earth, wealth and merit.

Midafternoon // Broadway Street
From curio shops to jewelry stores, this street adorned with tiled murals is perfect for ambling and discovering hidden gems.


Courtesy of Los Feliz Lodge.

GLENDALE

Where to Stay // Los Feliz Lodge
Sure, we love the cozy vibe and kitschy design at this bungalow-style lodge, but it’s the well-stocked kitchen, garden patio and laundry facilities that had us at hello. Plus, it’s three miles west of Glendale.

Lunch // Sasoun Bakery
This casual spot draws crowds for its lahmajoun, Armenian-style pizza made with ground beef, fresh tomato, parsley, onion and garlic.

Dinner // Carousel Restaurant
Snag a patio table at this lively restaurant and sample a blend of Lebanese, Armenian and Greek cooking. Start with the hummus followed by falafel, shawarma and kebabs galore.

Evening // Alex Theatre
Catch an Armenian concert at this historic theater that opened in 1925 as the neighborhood vaudeville and movie house.


Breed Street Shul photo by Andrea Bricco.

BOYLE HEIGHTS

Morning // Breed Street Shul
This synagogue, set in a stunning 1922 Byzantine revival building, is being restored and is a testament to the Jewish community that once called Boyle Heights home.

Morning // Lupe’s Tortilleria
It may not look like much from the exterior, but at Lupe’s, handmade corn tortillas are legendary. Lupe sells tortilla flour, too, so you can make them at home. 2710 Cesar E. Chavez Avenue.

Lunch // Manuel’s Original El Tepeyac Café
Order the Hollenbeck burrito stuffed with pork, rice, beans, guacamole and topped with chili verde at this local institution.

Afternoon // Mariachi Plaza
Come here on Saturday afternoons and be serenaded by mariachi players in charro suits. Along with the vibrant murals, their music completes the neighborhood’s rich portrait. East First Street and Boyle Avenue.


Jain Temple photo by Andrea Bricco.

LITTLE INDIA

Morning // Jain Temple
At this domed temple and cultural complex in Buena Park, you’ll enter into a marble-clad shrine with 47 idols that are anointed and adorned during festivals and holy days.

Lunch // JayBharat
This diner specializes in Gujarati snacks such as khandvi—thinly rolled sheets of garbanzo flour with shredded coconut, cilantro and mustard seeds.

Dinner // Udupi Palace
At this South Indian café, order the kancheepurum idli—steamed rice paddies studded with bits of ginger, coriander and cashew.

Evening // Saffron Spot
Finish at this ice cream parlor and snack bar with rose falooda, a milkshake-like drink of rose milk and vermicelli noodles topped with soaked basil seeds.


Shin-Sen-Gumi photo by Andrea Bricco.

LITTLE TOKYO

Where to Stay // The Standard
This downtown favorite from hotelier André Balazs combines 207 sleek rooms with a heady dose of whimsy.

Morning // Walking Tour
The Japanese American National Museum offers a monthly tour, stopping at a WWII Japanese American veterans monument, the Higashi Hongashi Buddhist Temple and the garden at the Japanese American Cultural & Community Center.

Lunch // Shin-Sen-Gumi
Devotees of Hakata-style ramen swear by this restaurant where the thin noodles are topped with scallions, red ginger and sesame seeds.

Afternoon // Marukai
Pick up edible souvenirs (and nonedible ones) such as green tea KitKats, plum wine and everything sushi imaginable at this beloved Japanese market.

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Get your tickets to Carmina Burana in Des Moines April 13-14, 2013!

Cover of the score to Carmina Burana showing the Wheel of Fortuna

The choir I sing in – the Drake University Community Chorus – has been painstakingly practicing “Carmina Burana” in great anticipation of our performance of the famous piece with Drake’s crackerjack student choirs and the Des Moines Symphony on April 13 and 14.  One and all are cordially invited.

Here’s some more details:

Masterworks 6: Carmina Burana – Celebrating All Things Drake!

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Performance Information:

Purchase Season Tickets

Location: Civic Center of Greater Des Moines

Description:

Joseph Giunta, conducting
Gregory Oakes & Clarence Padilla, clarinets
Carrie Ellen Giunta, soprano
Christopher Pfund, tenor;  Robert Orth, baritone
The Drake Choir, The Drake Chamber Choir & The Drake University/Community Chorus
Aimee Beckmann-Collier, Director
The Drake Chorale
Linda Vanderpool, Director
Heartland Youth Choir
Barbara Sletto, Director
Drake University Orchestra+
Akira Mori, Director

BRAHMS  Academic Festival Overture
KROMMER  Concerto for Two Clarinets & Orchestra in E-flat Major
ORFF  Carmina Burana

The Des Moines Symphony began in 1937 as the Drake/Des Moines Symphony and with these concerts, we celebrate that important partnership and honor the Orchestra’s rich history with Drake University. You’ll experience Orff’s monumental and provocative Carmina Burana with double choirs—musical grandeur and power that will raise the roof of the Civic Center! These concerts are presented by EMC Insurance Companies. Concert Prelude Talks begin 45 minutes prior to each Masterworks concert in the East Lobby.

+Joining the Des Moines Symphony for Brahms’ Academic Festival Overture.

Tickets start at just $15 for adults and $7.50 for students and are available through the Civic Center Ticket Office and Ticketmaster.

Bust of Carl Orff in the Munich Hall of Fame (2009)

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the interplay between fashion and impressionism – at the Met in NYC

Impressionism, Fashion, and Modernity

Looks like I will not make it to New York City until the summer – or late September – which unfortunately means I won’t get to go to an exhibit at the Metropolitan Museum of Art that sounds great.    Impressionism, Fashion, and Modernity, running through May 27, combines paintings by artists including one of my favorites Edouard Manet with the fashions of the artworks’ time, illustrating the role of fashion in the  work of Impressionists and others of the period.  Great idea and from the reviews I’ve read, the exhibit works!
I have two Manet posters in my bedroom – see below – in The Balcony,  two women and a man stand on an outdoor balcony wearing markedly beautiful clothes;  in the other, Olympia is famously unclothed.)

Artist Édouard Manet

Here’s more on the exhibit. Can hardly bear to read – I so long to go!
Impressionism, Fashion, and Modernity at The Metropolitan Museum of Art presents a revealing look at the role of fashion in the works of the Impressionists and their contemporaries.  Some 80 major figure paintings, seen in concert with period costumes, accessories, fashion plates, photographs, and popular prints, highlight the vital relationship between fashion and art during the pivotal years, from the mid-1860s to the mid-1880s, when Paris emerged as the style capital of the world.  With the rise of the department store, the advent of ready-made wear, and the proliferation of fashion magazines, those at the forefront of the avant-garde—from Manet, Monet, and Renoir to Baudelaire, Mallarmé, and Zola—turned a fresh eye to contemporary dress, embracing la mode as the harbinger of la modernité.  The novelty, vibrancy, and fleeting allure of the latest trends in fashion proved seductive for a generation of artists and writers who sought to give expression to the pulse of modern life in all its nuanced richness. Without rivaling the meticulous detail of society portraitists such  as James Tissot or Alfred Stevens or the graphic flair of fashion plates, the Impressionists nonetheless engaged similar strategies in the making (and in the marketing) of their pictures of stylish men and women that sought to  reflect the spirit of their age.

Artist Édouard Manet
Year 1868

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Don’t miss the Des Moines Art Center’s “Transparencies” show of glass artwork

Jim Dingilian fills liquor bottles with smoke and then, using custom-made tools, scrapes away the soot to create astonishingly detailed scenes. “Missing Sentinels among Halted Construction” is from 2012. (McKenzie Fine Art/Special to the Register)

When I lived in, and later visited, upstate New York, I used to enjoy going to the Corning Museum of Glass in Corning, N.Y. which became increasingly sophisticated in its exhibits over the years.  We got a glimpse of some cutting-edge glass artwork yesterday, near my present home, at the Des Moines Art Center.  We  thoroughly enjoyed an exhibit of work by 10 artists from around the world who do some remarkable things with glass – and I’m not even talking about Dale Chiluly here (whom some think is overexposed but I still like his work.)

Among our favorites from the show is the work (above) by Jim Dingilian (U.S.)  who somehow manages to create paintings inside of old liquor bottles – apparently filling the bottle with smoke and then somehow removing portions of the smoke stains to  create very intricate images of old cars and couches and landscapes. I still don’t quite get how he does it. Judith Schaechter, another American, does eery but gorgeous Medieval-type stained glass windows (see below) with characters that look like they walked out of a Tim Burton movie. How fun would it be to go to a church with her windows! (Don’t think that will happen anytime soon.)

There’s also (see further below) a mesmerizing  installation by Ray Hwang (from Korea) in a darkened room that almost defies easy description – but I’ll give it a go. It combines light, video and the image of a chandelier created by thousands of crystal beads upon a plexiglass panel  – to create the sensation of a chandelier that gradually lights up during   a rain storm. Okay, I didn’t do it justice. You have to see it.

Judith Schaechter creates stained glass using centuries-old techniques from medieval churches. But the stories her windows tell, as in “Mad Meg” from 2010, are the products of her own imagination. (Judith Schaechter/Special to the Register)

The DSM Register also has a good  slide show and story about the exhibit. See: http://www.desmoinesregister.com/article/20130218/LIFE/302180015/Eye-candy-Art-Center-showcases-glass-art-from-around-world

The Transparencies show was small so we spent another hour or so wandering around the rest of the museum, admiring old favorites (by Edward Hopper, John Singer Sargent, Anselm Kiefer, Grant Wood) and catching some new views – including an interesting installation by Ai Weiwei, the dissident Chinese artist/activist, and a crazy video of a McDonald’s during a flood, slowly filling up with water (complete with poor Ronald bobbing in the waves), as well as work I’d never seen before  by Alex Katz, Cindy Sherman and others.

Although it’s difficult to photograph, Ran Hwang’s 2010 “Garden of Water” shimmers with light from a video, projected onto Plexiglas panels pinned with thousands of crystal beads. (Leila Heller Gallery/Special to the Register)

TRANSPARENCIES
Contemporary Art & A History of Glass

February 22 — May 22, 2013
Anna K. Meredith Gallery


Above: Monir Farmanfarmaian (Iranian, born 1924)
Convertible Series, Group 10, 2011

Transparencies brings together a group of international contemporary artists whose work explores glass as both medium and as subject matter. Each creates contemporary art that connects with the history of glasswork, from luxury objects such as chandeliers and mirrors to household items like drinking vessels and light bulbs. Many forms of glass are represented, from delicate, hand-worked mirrors to industrial sheets of Plexiglas, as well as works that despite appearances, are not made of glass at all. The artists selected for Transparencies come from around the world, and vary widely in their art-making practices. Some have always worked with glass, both actually and conceptually, while others have only explored it occasionally. Combining sculpture, video, and installation with traditional forms of artisan techniques such as stained glass and blown glass, Transparencies explores the role of glass in today’s contemporary art world as well as our everyday lives.

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Dreaming of Ragbrai (July 21-27) on a sunny March morning

How amazing – the sun is shining today upon brown and muddy Des Moines. I can hear birds chirping and see squirrels racing across soggy lawns still littered with patches of melting snow.  Perfect morning to daydream about riding bikes through central and southern Iowa during Ragbrai this July. The DSM Register, conveniently, provided a detailed description of the route today and it looks do-able. It’s also very convenient for those of us living in Des Moines, since it passes through the city for the first time in many years. If the weather isn’t beastly hot – as it was last summer – I hope to do Day 3 (49.9 miles from Perry to Des Moines) and Day 4 (49.9 miles from Des Moines to Knoxville with highlights including mimosas at the Rosey Acres Winery, ice cream at Jersey Freeze in Monroe, beer at Peach Tree Brewing in Knoxville, as well as a visit to the home of the designer of Iowa’s state flag – that would be Dixie Gebhardt.)

You still game Anne??

DCGebhardt.jpg
Dixie Cornell Gebhardt in about 1917.

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check out Ernie Ruben’s “Portraits of Sound” exhibit at NYC’s Lincoln Center

I was the only kid I knew with an “Aunt Ernie” but I never really thought twice about it – Aunt Ernie was Aunt Ernestine Ruben, one of my parents’ closest friends and our two families(one in Michigan, the other in New Jersey)  had, and still have,  a close bond. Aunt Ernie is also an accomplished photographer and I wish I could see an exhibit of her latest work entitled “Portraits of Sound” now on view at Lincoln Center’s Avery Fisher Hall. Here are more details below from a NYTimes T magazine blog post. One of her nude photos from the mid-1980s hangs in my house here in Iowa.

Now Showing | Ernestine Ruben

Culture

By NATALIE RINN

March 7, 2013, 2:04 pm3 Comments

  • “ZERNA-1,” a piece from Ernestine Ruben’s “Portraits of Sound” project with the New York Philharmonic.
  • “ALLEN-1,” from “Portraits of Sound.”
  • Ernestine Ruben in her studio at Mana Contemporary art center. Vladimir Weinstein
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In 1981, the curator of photography at Bibliotheque Nationale in Paris, Jean-Claude Lemagny, discovered the American photographer Ernestine Ruben. Reviewing student portfolios, Lemagny was taken by a compilation of Ruben’s early, signature nudes. At the time, the artist was 49. “It was only later in life that I had the courage to do my own thing,” recalled the now 81-year-old Ruben from her Upper West side apartment. Dozens of stories below and across the street, her latest exhibit “Portraits of Sound” has just been installed at Lincoln Center’s Avery Fisher Hall, where it will be on view for the next two months. “You can see it’s easy to be inspired from up here,” she remarked of the sweeping view west from her living room window.

Ruben began her career shooting nudes, but she expanded the form by bringing her lens close to the flesh, morphing small sections of the body into sensual landscapes. Similarly, in “Portraits of Sound,” Ruben plays with the limits of portraiture. Following sessions with members of the New York City Philharmonic (in which, she said, she might crawl under a chair in pursuit of the right angle), Ruben manipulated the images in Photoshop to reflect the relationship between music and maker and the experience of performance: an image of the bassoon transforms into bundles of sticks to suggest the tone of wood; a triplicate of a double bass extends across space, communicating oversized sound and physical stature. (“He seemed to be everywhere,” Ruben remembered.) “They said, ‘that’s exactly how I feel about my music or my instrument,’” she recounted of some of the musicians’ reaction to her work.

Ruben’s parents were renowned art collectors, and she describes their trove of futurist art as among the largest outside of Italy. “I was filled with passion and energy, but frightened to have to compete with things like this,” she recalled, gesturing behind her to a cobalt and cream Picasso-designed textile that belonged to her mother. She finally got her start in 1978 when, by chance, a friend invited her to a photography class. After years of devoting herself to motherhood and teaching art, she felt the time was right. “I wanted to do something that was mine. I wanted to extend photography in as many directions as possible.” Today her images can be found in the permanent collections of the Museum of Modern Art in Paris and the Philadelphia Museum of Art.

In her ninth decade, Ruben continues to extend the reach of her camera. She is creating photographic three-dimensional environments and sculpture in a new studio space at Mana Contemporary and, she said, the ideas keep pouring out of her. “I think it’s terribly important not just to reflect the world around you but to penetrate it,” she declared. At Lincoln Center, Ruben’s photographs reverberate with that vision.

“Portraits of Sound” is currently on view at Avery Fisher Hall at Lincoln Center.

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Filed under New York City, THE ARTS

Brews along the bike trails in Des Moines

ebc-beerhall-4
 Farmer John's

Looks like there will be ample opportunity to try some fresh brewed beer along various Des Moines bike trails this year – although I’m not a big fan of that sort of thing. Brew pubs are bursting out all over the city including:

  • Exile Brewing Company, in a cool rehabbed building/”beer hall” (maybe they’ll have Weisswurst, those sickly grey-colored sausages I remember from Munich beer gardens. I do see “german food,” aka veal schnitzel, homemade country sausage, braised red cabbage, wholegrain mustard on the menu!) near Meredith in the western Gateway. 1514 Walnut Street.
  • Confluence Brewing (located just south of Gray’s Lake, presumably named for being near the confluence of two downtown rivers – the Des Moines and the Raccoon) 1235 Thomas Beck Rd. (Interestingly, you have to enter your birthdate to prove you’re over 21 to get on the brewpub’s website. Never seen that before.)
  • 515 Brewing (on University, just west of 73rd street,  along the Clive/Greenbelt Trail in Clive) 7700 University Ave. (see below)

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Fight for Air Climb in Des Moines and beyond – April 7

Stairclimb Logo

About Fight For Air Climbs

Not sure  I could climb one let alone three office buildings in Des Moines without fighting for air – but those are the options (1, 2, or 3 buildings – EMC Insurance, Hub Tower, The DSM Marriott Downtown) during the 2013 Fight for Air Climb in downtown DSM on April 7.  And maybe you can.  The event is a fundraiser for  the American Lung Association (geddit?)  Climbs are being held in high office towers across the country…For more info see: FightForAirClimb.org

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A good burger and shelter from a snowstorm – at University Library Cafe in Des Moines

I don’t know why it took me over 20 years to finally step foot in The University Library Cafe, a popular bar in Des Moines. (Maybe because I don’t go to bars much.) But I have heard for awhile lately that “The Library”, on University and 35th near Drake University, has good burgers and nachos. And there has been even more buzz since a successful restaurant group here, Full Court Press, bought the bar. So on a dreary Sunday that we spent mostly in the house due to rain, hail, sleet, snow, more rain, we escaped to The Library, which proved to be a good little shelter from the storm and has fresh grilled burgers and a wide beer selection. I particularly liked my cheese burger which had cheese from “The Cheese Shop” which I am assuming refers to the gourmet cheese shop nearby in the Roosevelt shopping center. The waitress wasn’t sure but the cheese was better than the American cheese slice on my husbands ordinary cheeseburger. My only complaint is that my burger was not rare, as promised, but judging from the sounds of sizzling coming from the grill, the burger was the real deal.

University Library Cafe, at 3506 University Ave.

 

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Filed under Des Moines, DINING