Category Archives: Michigan

August 20, 2010 · 1:31 pm

Riding with the Ranger – Empire, Mi.

One of the best things we’ve done here cost no money – yesterday we loaded our bikes onto our car and drove about 15 minutes south to an old school house south of Empire where we met up with a young forest ranger – Ranger Ryan – and 9 other people for a bike ride and ranger talk. Beautiful morning and lovely terrain. We rode on gravel and sand roads (a mountain bike would have been handy but not essential) through deep woods, wide open meadows with the occasional perfect white farm-house and red barns and outbuildings, to the sandy shores of Lake Michigan (near a nude beach, we were told). we stopped occasionally for a talk by Ryan about the invasive species in the ecosystem (not good) and the local lore (pretty darned good) about a ghost town and hard drinking lumber boss with a great baritone.

Outside Empire we stopped at the Grocer’s daughter – a fancy hand-made chocolate shop started by a Danish woman who was indeed a grocer’s daughter in Denmark. Good price chocolates. Then back to our favorite farm stand just north of Empire and then home to Brook haven where we met up with the kids who had done some kayaking on the lake and eaten at the Foothills Cafe nearby (good). Returned to Empire beach where the waves were much calmer and had dinner at the cottage, followed by ice cream (still not Mooners but delicious and good scoops) at the Pine Cone in Glen Arbor. waiting now for the weather to clear

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August 19, 2010 · 1:42 pm

up a river w/out a paddle – platte river

Last time we tubed in Boulder Colorado it was terrifying and the water was freezing. This time, tubing in the Platte River near Honor, Mi, it was boring and the water was warm. I’d love something in between. We debated tubing vs. canoeing beforehand and the Platte River vs.Crystal River and ended up on a three hour very very slow float (it was supposed to be two hours) along a pretty narrow river that leads into Lake Michigan that was full of canoers, tubers, and kakakers. There was even one guy swimming or snorkeling, since he wore a face mask. Oh well. I do remember tubing on the Delaware River in Pennsylvania Years ago and it was a lot of fun – speedy but no sharp rocks and swirling gullies like in Boulder.

We had a picnic on windy Empire, Mi. beach – which also has a small inland lake South Bar Lake. We again chose Lake Michigan, where the beach was busier than north bar Lake but a sandy not rocky bottom and great waves and warm water. fun. Onto Laker Shakes, a gourmet market near Burdickville along Big Glen Lake that specializes in yes, milk shakes. I had some Hudsonville (michigan brand) double chocolate almond on a cone – the scoopers around here do not skimp on the scoops. This is the second ice cream stand we’ve visited in the area where the scoops are really more like three scoops. My mother would be pleased.

We had friends over for a cookout – very good homemade brats from IGA Anderson in Glen Arbor; fresh produce (tomatoes, corn, herbs, from a farm stand just north of Empire; smores at a fire we built with our neighbors on the beach. Nice.

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August 18, 2010 · 1:33 pm

Sleeping Bear – Doing the Dunes

The breeze  died down yesterday morning and we were left with sunshine and a slight wind so perfect day to explore Sleeping Bear Sand Dunes National Park. We started at the Dune Climb – a wide wall of sand bordered by brush. At the top we kept climbing on narrow sandy trails until we got to a spot with a spectacular view of thepale turquise  waters of Little and Big Glen Lakes to the east and the dark navy blue waters of Lake Michigan to the west..

onto Pierce Stocking Scenic Drive (great name) just south – a seven-mile one way loop along the coast where we stopped for a picnic on Picnic Mountain and for another spectacular view – this time atop a high sand dune that dropped steeply into the lake. Lots of other tourists but not oppressive.

Thanks to my willingness to ask park rangers questions, we found a gorgeous beach that was somewhat hidden off a dirt road just south of the drive. North Bar Lake is more like a gentle little pond, separated from Lake Michigan by a tiny strip of sand. Perfect for families with little kids. My teens opted for the wild beach of lake Michigan where we body surfed in the big waves and hunted for petosky stones. no luck yet. water was remarkably warm – again.

Forgot to mention that we began the day at the Glen Arbor Farmers market which was small but good. Some good crafts too – made out of the raw materials of my youth. petosky stones and birch bark. Got good blueberries, tomatoes and corn.

we met my friend polly and her twins at Joe’s Friendly Tavern in Empire, which lived up to its name. Good burgers, fried smelt, sweet potato fries, oberon beer. like the town of Empire a lot. Then onto the Cherry Bowl, a drive in movie theater near the town of Honor. Chilly but lot of fun – real step back in time. kids were intrigued.

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August 16, 2010 · 10:33 pm

leelanau pennisula

It was very blustery and chilly this morning with intimidating white caps on our sweet Big Glen Lake so it was a good day to explore the Leelanau Peninsula just east of Glen Arbor.

We started with Suttons Bay, which was a pretty place albeit a bit touristy. Tried to visit Tandem Cider for some hard cider but it was closed. Dropped by the Black Star winery to try some cheese and found we had to pay $1 for a tiny plastic container of about seven 1/4-inch size cubes of racellette. Not impressed. They could learn a thing or two from the cheese places in Oregon – including Rogue River creamery near Medford which are far more generous with the samples, friendlier and a result we bought cheese from them!

We drove on M22 north to yes, Northport, a slightly more real-feeling town, and just north to the lighthouse – which looked more like a house with an observation tower atop. For five of us, it was too expensive to go in at $4 per person plus the $8 to get into the park where the lighthouse sits but we walked around the rocky point where the waves were ferocious.

Onto Leland – at a good light whitefish sandwich at The Bluebird, walked around Fishtown, the collection of old fishing shanties that now have some shops including Carlsons where i got more smoked whitefish and a tile place with UP-themed tiles (yes, i bought one.)

Also bought a warm cherry and raspberry pie at Covered Wagon Market bakery en route to Suttons Bay- smells good and better taste great for price $13.99. They know a “fudgie” (the name my friend who has a summer house here calls tourists…although we haven’t gone to a fudge shop yet) when they see one.

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August 15, 2010 · 3:08 pm

Glen Arbor, Mi. – Yes

greetings from our own little temporary slice of paradise.  Our two-room cottage just south of Glen Arbor at grey, aqua and dark blue bands of Big Glen Lake framed by birch trees. It’s breezy and sunny with white caps and I want to stay here forever. The rental agency has lived up to my expectations. Everything is as it should be and more at Brookhaven #4 – the place is clean, clearful, nicely decorated. The staff of visit up north were bright and cheerful on a sunday morning no less.

we ate dinner at a great place last night, trattoria funistrada, which served delicious pasta dishes in a cozy old house just south of where we are on big glen lake (maple city and burdickville are technically the town names). On the drive up we stopped in a little hamlet of Fennville for late breakfast at the blue Goose Cafe, which appeared to be the local hangout. Nothing fancy but good homemade food served by a plucky waitress. we’d been sent there by a guidebook to go to another restaurant down the street but it turned out to be more upscale and expensive, especially for five of us.

Woke up this morning to detroit bagels (the best) brought by my dad and his wife Barbara – and superb smoked whitefish from Carlson’s in Leeland and fresh blueberries and peaches bought at one of the many fruit stands near South Haven. Life is good.

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August 13, 2010 · 8:19 pm

and away we go…to northern michigan

With two hours to go before we roll out of town into the great unknown (not that great – just a cottage in northern Michigan that I choose from a vacation rental agency’s website)  my cell phone rings. I miss the call because I’m several rooms away but there’s a voicemail message. On comes the chipper voice of a woman who works at the vacation rental agency. She just wants to make sure we got this and that piece of information, to let us know the agency’s toll-free number, that they’re open seven days a week and we should call if we need anything.  I like that – and it’s good to hear as we start driving 11 hours to a cottage I don’t know much about other than a one-paragraph description and some photos on a website.  Hope it’s a good sign.

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August 12, 2010 · 4:11 pm

Renting a cottage in northern Michigan – so far so good

It’s always a leap of faith to rent a vacation cottage sight unseen – although the Internet has helped a lot by offering at least some photos. But even if the rooms look clean and somewhat spacious – will they be when you arrive.?And will you have rowdy neighbors throwing a wild and crazy party in their ramshackle trailer? As in life, there are no guarantees on vacation.

But so far I’ve been impressed by the staff at Visit Up North.com who  helped me book our cottage. I’ve called ahead and made sure about a few things that weren’t spelled out in the contract – yes there are linens for the sofabed, no there are no laundry facilities (but I was given the name of a good laundromat nearby.) Some good signs:   the staff are personable and seem to  know the area well. Now the proof is in the pudding.

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August 9, 2010 · 6:52 pm

Traverse City: here we come

We leave Friday for Up North and I found a good website with info on things going on in and Around Traverse City …www.mynorth.com. Here are a few that popped out at me:

Leelanau County’s own celeb chef gives us simple, Italian-inspired recipes.—The Cottage Book Shop (Spend An Evening With Mario Batali on the front lawn of the Village at Grand Traverse Commons on August 14, 2010 from 5pm to 10 pm. Part of the Traverse City National Writers Series.)

http://www.mynorth.com/My-North/August-2010/Four-Northern-Michigan-Restaurants-with-Waterfront-Views/ (includes Glen Arbor restaurant Blu that my friend P recommends.)

Downtown Art Fair in Traverse City August 14, 2010 from 10am to 5pm – Downtown Traverse City annual juried art fair features over 90 Midwest and national artists. Open to the public free of charge. Organized by Downtown Traverse City | Type: art

Suttons Bay artist Neil Walling looks for the unexpected in the Leelanau landscape. The inspiration he finds there is the subject of a new group of oil paintings on display starting Aug. 13 at Center Gallery/Lake Street Studios, 6023 S. Lake St., Glen Arbor. Walling’s self-assigned challenge is to study many of the familiar Leelanau County scenes in search of something fresh to depict. “There are a great many scenes in the county, but I always look for something unexpected or overlooked by the casual observer,” he said. “Fish Town is a good example. It has been painted by many fine artists, so my goal is to see it from a new perspective.” A public reception opens the exhibition Aug. 13, 6 p.m. The show runs through Aug. 19. For more information, please call 231/334-3179.

Cherry Bowl – drive-in movies!:   only 18 miles southwest of Traverse City on US31 South, 7 miles from the Lake Michigan shore line and Sleeping Bear Dune National Park, and a stone’s throw from the Platte River.

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July 31, 2010 · 8:21 pm

Dreaming of: Northern Michigan

With two weeks to go before our vacation on Big Glen Lake near Glen Arbor, Mi., we’re starting to line up some things – including a restaurant to meet our relatives (who are staying at the Sylvan Inn) at on Saturday night. Trattoria Funistrada http://www.trattoriafunistrada.com/ comes well recommended so will try to book there – it’s only 9 minutes from our cottage.

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July 30, 2010 · 7:30 pm

the best b&b around Traverse City

We’re vacationing in Glen Arbor, Mi. in August and renting a cottage on Big Glen Lake that, alas, is not big enough to include relatives from suburban Detroit who we hope are meeting up with us.  So I’ve been looking online at the lodgings around the area, trying to find a nice b&b or inn that’s affordable, not too far from us, and has decor that’s not too goopy. My favorites so far – although some are too far  – (and this is just judging from website pix) are:

www.tesoroinn.com/ (too far, alas)
www.kornerkottage.com (recommended by NYT ; also too far)
http://www.windinthepinesbb.com/

Other options: The Homestead, The Sylvan Inn and Glen Arbor   Bed & Breakfast

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