Category Archives: Iowa

How good bread and coffee revived Des Moines’ food scene!!

Des Moines restaurateur/entrepreneur George Formaro samples a challah loaf as he displays the many types of artisan breads that are made at his South Union Bakery, which is located in the basement of the Gateway Market, 2002 Woodland Ave.

Interesting story today by Jennifer Miller, who has been doing a terrific job of covering the burgeoning food and dining scene in Des Moines and Iowa, about the advent and progress of artisanal bread making in Des Moines since the 1990’s.

My theory – – not yet substantiated but that hasn’t stopped me from sharing it with many a visitor and newcomer to DSM  — is  that finally getting excellent bread and coffee ushered good food/dining into Des Moines. The restaurant/grocery store scene was pretty dismal when my husband (then boyfriend, I guess)  arrived here in 1990 but the emergence of not only decent bread (Pain Pane) but later terrific bread (South Union), as well as good coffee/coffee houses (even before Starbucks) gradually led to better places to eat and shop and finally find things like a good cheese selection.

George Formaro (the South Union guy)  first made sandwiches and soup to sell with his bread at little shop behind the Register (that I visited almost daily when I was a Register reporter during the 1990s) and then onto pizza and one restaurant after another and, of course, Gateway Market. It was interesting to learn from Jennifer’s story that George’s quest to perfect the burger bun  led to George’s latest successful restaurant, Zombie Burger in Des Moines’s East Village. (I rest my case.)  I’ve watched the Logsdons’ progress (most recently with the terrific La Mie Restaurant in the Roosevelt Shopping Center) in a somewhat similar fashion.

Of course, work remains – DSM still needs a decent bagel!

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Filed under Des Moines, DINING

Zumba by Gray’s Lake in June in Des Moines!

First there was Yoga in the Park at Gray’s Lake in Des Moines – now there’s Zumba by the Lake (same location on the southeast lawn) this summer on Saturday mornings in June for 45 minutes starting at 8:15 a.m. (followed by Yoga from 9-10 which runs May 25 through Sept. 28). This might get me to return to Zumba, for a month at least.  Although I love the 9 a.m. Saturday morning Body Jam class (another dance-based cardio workout class) the Walnut Creek Y, it kind of conflicts with our Saturday morning trips to the farmers market in downtown Des Moines because the market is really crowded when we get there at about 10:30-11 a.m.

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Filed under Agritourism, Des Moines

Beautiful Adair County (Iowa) in Greenfield and beyond

The Iowa Aviation Museum celebrates Iowa’s

Never realized how gorgeous Adair County, about 55 miles west of Des Moines is, especially on a perfect spring day. Classic Iowa farm country, driving along a rollercoaster two-lane highway past lush green pastures with grazing cows and shadows from the clouds moving across the land; a hawk soaring high above a tidy farmstead; the kind of drive where you seriously contemplate what would be better to have – a red or a white barn? (I’m still torn.)

En route to Greenfield just off Interstate 80, I not only stopped at the famous Freedom Rock but there was the artist painting his annual ode to veterans – just in time for Memorial Day. This year the huge boulder is home to a graveyard with fallen soldiers, white stones on a green lawn, a soldier kneeling beside one stone, a woman laying down in front of the stone. Interesting to read the names of all the people driving by from all over the country who have signed the guestbook in a little overhang nearby.

From there onto the incredibly lovely recently restored Hotel Greenfield – gorgeous early 1900’s structure with lots of original fixtures and moldings, vintage photos, nice combination of antique furnishings and contemporary art. Well done. Equally well done is the newly restored opera house, now known as the Warren Cultural Center, a red brick corner building with a turret at the edge of the tidy public square surrounding a red brick Romanesque courthouse. All very pristine. Enjoyed the crafts by Iowa artisans inside Ed and Eva’s, a shop on the ground floor of the cultural center and a nice woman took me on a tour upstairs of the pretty little opera house, which begins with a contemporary blond wood and glass stair case leading to a surprisingly light and airy concert hall with light pink walls with the original stencils restored. Must return for a concert sometime – word has it the acoustics are amazing. So nice to see these buildings restored to their former glory.

Also stopped at the Iowa Aviation Museum – a little hanger off a dirt road by Greenfield’s tiny airport that has a mighty impressive collection of vintage aircraft collected and then donated by a local couple. Old gliders and two seaters (one with wicker seats) and word has it, you can go flying in one of the two seaters once the one little pup plane to do this is back in action. A very nice woman kindly took me around the hanger, inviting me to sit in the planes (I was afraid I wouldn’t get out once in – kinda cramped quarters) and proudly showed off all kinds of aviation legends with Iowa roots (who knew) from the Wright Brothers, whose father had land in the Adair County area, to a woman who taught Amelia Earhart how to fly (Amelia spent time in Des Moines.) Well worth a visit!

I had a light sophisticated  lunch at the beautiful Henry A. Wallace Country Life Center – the farm house/home of the former Vice President under FDR. I’d eaten Friday dinner at the Gathering Table, the center’s restaurant (see photo of barn below), but not lunch – it was equally good. Salad of greens, a vegetable tart made with fresh asparagus from the center’s garden (as well as mushrooms, carrots, all top a thin crisp but buttery wedge of baked pastry dough). And the perfect dessert: homemade ginger yoghurt with chocolate curry truffles. Yum.wallace.jpg

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Filed under Agritourism, Iowa

Cabins to stay at in Decorah Iowa

We were hoping to stay in Decorah at what looks like the lovely Fern Hollow Cabin but alas it was booked the dates we wanted. Here are some other options!

1. Trout River Log Cabin
2336 Trout River Rd., Decorah, IA [map »] (see photos below)

2. Pepperfield Project, 

next door to Fern Hollow Cabin, run by  the original gardener and orchardist for Seed Saver’s Exchange, and is a teacher on all things garden. Guests stay in home with him and share the kitchen.

1575 Manawa Trail

(563)382-8833

http://www.pepperfieldproject.org/

3. Loyal Rue

563)382-2593

Loyal has a restored log cabin 11 miles N of Decorah.

Trout River Valley

welcome to Trout River Log Cabin, a 19th century Norwegian-built log house nestled in the rolling hills of Northeast Iowa.

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Filed under Agritourism, Iowa, LODGING

Air B&B options and the newTrout Run Trail in Decorah Iowa

I finally got around to joining Air B&B and found two good options in Decorah, including Fern Hollow Cabin, (they’re both in old log cabins), where we hope to go this weekend to ride bikes on the new Trout Run Trail which looks incredibly cool. Opened in September 2011, the trail is  an 11-mile loop around this outdoorsy northeast Iowa city, snaking along the Upper Iowa River (our favorite canoeing river in Iowa) and adorned with public art/sculptures. It runs past Luther College, the Decorah Trout Fishery (home of the famous Decorah eagles, whose nesting via webcam captivated a worldwide audience last year…word has it the eagles have moved on. We saw a spectacular eagle in flight near a nest in Gray’s Lake Park in Des Moines yesterday!)

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May 3, 2013 More Snow

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Filed under Iowa

May 2, 2013 Iowa snow

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Fun Summer Flicks (free on the lawn) of the Des Moines Art Center

Des Moines Art Center.jpg
Established 1948

Feels like spring for a change today in Des Moines. Keep It Coming! With warmer weather approaching, here’s an update on the Des Moines Art Center’s “Summer on the Hill” free film series, which has some good flicks the first Thursdays from June through September (except in July when they’re a week later due to the July 4th holiday):

My Dog Skip – June 6

The Philadelphia Story – July 11

Breakfast at Tiffany’s – August 1

Vertigo – September 5.

Also up this summer are First Friday gatherings – with live music, light bites, cast bar, form 5-8 p.m. in the Art Center’s lovely courtyard from 5-8 p.m. (only exception is July – which will be held on July 12, aka the second Friday.)

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Signs of spring on a drive through Iowa’s Madison County

John Wayne
John Wayne - still portrait.jpg
circa 1965
Born Marion Robert Morrison
May 26, 1907
Winterset, Iowa, U.S.

On a not-quite spring day, we set off on a drive through the backroads of Madison County south of Des Moines – and found a few signs of spring – green (green!!) rolling farmland, ducks bobbing in water-filled ditches along the two-lane Cumming Road (aka county road G4R), some  blossoms and buds here and there.  In Winterset, we had lunch at one of our favorite spots – the Northside Cafe, an old-fashioned country cafe that’s gotten a new infusion of hipness (but not too much hipness) and improved cuisine thanks to its new owners, who used to own the long-gone-and-lamented Chat Noir in Des Moines.

The Northside looks much the same – a long high-ceilinged storefront whose pale linoleum corridor is bordered  on one side by a long wooden counter/bar with round swivel stools  and on the other by a row of booths with somewhat sagging vinyl seats and fake-wood formica tabletops. The ceiling is stamped tin. The  weathered clock on a shelf along the bar – with the sign that flips business adverts for local realtors and car mechanic – remains.  The walls have old photos of the cafe and a hand-drawn Union Township map spelling out who owns every patch of land in the area (from Vernon Goodwin to Alice Anderson). In the adjoining room are huge colorful wall maps of the world pulled down from their wooden rollers  for full display – the kind that used to hang in 1960s school classrooms.

There  are a few new touches – an etched-glass sign in the front window and some spiffy graphics. But you can still picture Clint Eastwood stopping by for a bowl of soup – as he did while in character during the filming of “The Bridges of Madison County.” The  soup, though,  is much better now – and we made sure to have some.  It’s the thick creamy seafood bisque that used to be served at Chat Noir – full of crabmeat and shrimp. We also split a  muffuleta sandwich (another Chat Noir favorite) and some sweet potato fries.  (Although we were tempted by the chili – billed as “John Wayne’s favorite,” a tribute to a local hero whose humble birthplace is another Winterset tourist attractions. A portion of the proceeds from each cup of chili sold goes to supporting “The Duke’s” birthplace/museum.)

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Filed under DINING, Iowa

Catch today’s lusty Carmina Burana in Des Moines! Spring! In-the-Tavern! Love!

Marin Alsop conducts the Baltimore Symphony Orchestra in Baltimore in 2007.
One more chance to see/hear the excess and spectacle of Carmina Burana in Des Moines today! (And I get one more chance to sing in it.) The DM Register review (see below), which I largely agree with, was favorable. It mentions that the guys one-upped the women – which is true, in part because they had more parts to sing and sang them very well!!  (To my surprise, I found myself quite envious of the guys…call it “#14-envy” – #14 is a particularly challenging but way cool number the men sing.)

And check out this interesting 2012 NPR story by Scott Simon about Carmina Burana – http://www.npr.org/templates/story/story.php?storyId=6471891 – that includes some amusingly unorthodox Death Metal, Rap and Electronic versions – and a very interesting interview with Maestro Marin Alsop, music director of the Baltimore Symphony Orchestra (the first woman to hold this poisition with a major American orchestra, I gather.) Alsop conducted a new (2012) recording of Carmina Burana with the Bournemouth Symphony Orchestra on the Naxos label

DES Moines Register Symphony review: ‘Carmina Burana’

Symphony review: ‘Carmina Burana’

3:08 AM, Apr 14, 2013 | by Michael Morain |

The audience got what it came for Saturday when the Des Moines Symphony and a mass choir delivered a rousing performance of Carl Orff’s blockbuster “Carmina Burana.” The nearly full house at the Des Moines Civic Center felt the visceral blast of 330-some musicians singing, playing instruments, and pounding on a drum the size of a small car.

The bodies on stage outnumbered the populations of more than 400 towns in Iowa.

So it’s a good thing those bodies had talent. They produced both the steamroller power of the work’s signature song, “O Fortuna” – made famous in countless movies and advertisements – as well as the earthier delights in the other two dozens songs about spring and love and drinking. (Orff set the music to a series of 13th century Latin poems he found in a secondhand book store.)

The orchestra has performed “Carmina” before, with guest conductors, but this was maestro Joseph Giunta’s first crack at it. He pulled it together well, with a strong sense of pacing and polished bombast. The score isn’t as technically difficult as some, but it takes a steady hand to get 330 people on the same page.

He had help from Drake University orchestra conductor Akira Mori, who prepared his students to play with the pros, and Drake choral conductors Aimee Beckmann-Collier and Linda Vanderpool, who rehearsed four different university choirs, including one that includes community voices. Barbara Sletto coached the Heartland Youth Choir, which held its own even amid the roar.

The women’s voices produced a supple, lively tone in the early flirty passages (“Salesman! Give me colored paint to paint my cheeks”) but the men one-upped them with a precisely rendered round of drinking songs. Their unaccompanied section (“If a boy and girl linger together”) was especially good.

The dramatically gifted baritone Robert Orth carried most of the solos with natural ease, as if Latin was his first language. He struggled at times to be heard but still managed to make himself understood, even wobbling back and forth during his bit as a drunken priest.

The talented soprano Carrie Ellen Giunta, who happens to be married to the conductor, sang best during her highest and most exposed solo (“Sweetest boy”). And the tenor Christopher Pfund made the most of his brief appearance as a swan – or former swan – lamenting its life while roasting on a spit. It’s one of the tenor’s specialities; he’s sung the role more than 150 times on three continents.

“Carmina” was written in 1937, the same year the Des Moines Symphony began as a combined ensemble of Drake and the community at large. Saturday’s concert (which repeats Sunday) honored that connection further by opening with a performance of Brahms’ “Academic Overture,” again with a mix of students and pros. It sounded as sunny as anything on the university’s admissions brochures.

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