Category Archives: England and U.K.

Maggie Maggie Maggie – Memories of Thatcher’s England

Hard to believe that Margaret Thatcher has died, although she has been long gone from the public stage and eye. I wasn’t a fan of her policies – I worked for the rival Labour Party in 1980 as an intern for a young MP named Jack Straw who went on to become a household name himself. And back then, we used to march through the streets during one rally or another  chanting ” Maggie, Maggie, Maggie, Out, out, out.” But I did admire her courage and determination. And this photo (below) of Maggie berating Jack has hung on my office wall for some 30 years.

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Tips from a friend who just returned from Scotland and Ireland!! Bring your rain gear

Glenfarg Green

Our friends Kathy, Doug and  Conor just returned from a two week trip to Scotland and Ireland and kindly sent along their highlights/recommendations to share!

Kathy adds: If anyone is planning to go this summer, I’d be sure to bring layers of clothes and rain gear, since they’ve been having torrential rain and predicting it is going to be a “summer without a summer.” So saying, even though the weather was generally cool and rainy, we had some nice days and the weather was never so bad that it prevented us from doing what we wanted.) 


SCOTLAND

Edinburgh:  

Bed and breakfast: We stayed at Priestville Guest House [10 Priestfield Road, Edinburgh EH16 5HJ], a nice bed and breakfast with a friendly host, near the University of Edinburgh about a 20-minute walk from the Royal Mile and a short walk to Holyrood Park, which has plenty of walking and hiking trails.
Restaurants: 

* Salisbury Arms, a classy but casual restaurant and bar near the guest house with a nice patio area. 
* Anna Purna, a vegetarian Indian restaurant that was one of the best meals we had on the trip.
* Ciao Roma, a nice Italian restaurant downtown. Had a great pizza for lunch.

Pubs:

* Leslie’s, a “real ale” bar and traditional Victorian pub. 

Sights:

* National Museum of Scotland: Highly recommended, huge and free. Everything from mummies to dinosaurs and quirky timepieces. You could spend all day here, especially if it is raining.

Glenfarg: A tiny village about an hour north of Edinburgh and Glasgow. “The gateway to the Highlands.” There isn’t much in town but the Glenfarg Hotel, a small (16-room) private hotel with a restaurant and several bars that is obviously the place to be in the area. The Saturday night we stayed there the local soccer team was having their annual “disco night” in the basement bar, another group of locals was watching European championship soccer in the first-floor bar, some senior citizens were having dinner in the dining room, and we camped out in the lobby bar to watch the action. 


Drymen: About an hour north of Glasgow in the beautiful Loch Lomond national park area. A nice little village with several pubs and restaurants that would make a low-key base for several days of hiking, walking and touring. We stayed at the Winnock Hotel on the town square, a nice old hotel that catered to tourists (it hosted a traditional music “céilidh” one night we were there), and had a restaurant and a busy bar. We also had drinks and dinner in several restaurants and bars on the square.

Within driving distance:

* Doune Castle: “Monty Python and the Holy Grail” was shot in this well-preserved 14th-century castle. A fun, funny self-guided audio tour narrated by Python Terry Jones addresses both the actual history and the filming. We agreed that it was one of the best castle tours we’ve taken. 

IRELAND

Howth: Scenic fishing village a nice day trip north of Dublin on the transit system. After wandering all over town, we ended up eating fish and chips at a tiny pierside seafood tapas bar called Octopussy, where we had literally the best meal of the trip. We are still talking about the light, flaky smoked fish.
Waterford: We stated at Dooley’s, an old hotel on the waterfront, which had large rooms, a nice bar and the best buffet breakfast we have ever had. Waterford crystal is made here, and there is a display room and tours available. 




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Edinburgh: “scottish hog roast rolls” (no haggis), Stockbridge, Portobello, Dean Village, Water of Leith

A storefront in Stockbridge

Friends are visiting Edinburgh this summer so here’s some finds, as requested, from my trip to Scotland in 2009:

–  My English pals and I  stayed with friends in their 1820 stone house  overlooking the sea in the pretty suburb of Portobello  – a town where Findlay’s butcher shop boasts that it has  world’s best haggis. We didn’t try it.

– Not far from the Royal Mile and Edinburgh Castle is a great take-away pork sandwich place called Oink (“delicious scottish hog roast  rolls”) that vegetarians will NOT enjoy since the pork is carved from a pig laid out in the front window. OINK is on Victoria Street in the old Grassmarket area http://www.grassmarket.net/grassmarkethistory.asp which is worth a wander.

–  There’s a  good pub, the Bailie, that we went to for lunch (good mussels in a whiskey/bacon sauce  and sticky toffee pudding) in an off-the-beaten track neighborhood with nice little boutiques and galleries called Stockbridge.

– From Stockbridge we stumbled upon a pretty country walkway along a small river  – right in the city – the Water of Leith that led to lovely old Dean Village and then to the Museum of Modern Art. (photo: Dean Village seen from the East side of the Water of Leith)

One of many Signposts

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London’s East End adventures

My dear friend Suzette and her family are house swapping with a family in London’s East End (the English family gets San Francisco in exchange – not so shabby) so here’s some East End recommendations: (borrowing heavily from the NYTimes travel section)

– Walking tour of the (former) Jewish East End. I don’t know if this is still available. We did it, um, 20 years ago and there was little Jewish stuff left but what was there, often nearly hidden, was fascinating – including the remnants of an old temple (as I recall) and a still operating kosher restaurant. Look in TIME OUT for walking tours. OR check this out: http://www.londonjewishtours.com or http://www.contexttravel.com/city/london/walking-tour-details/east-end-sunday-market-walk

– Brick Lane – this is now lined with East Indian and Bangladeshi restaurants. It used to be a Jewish area and there still is – or was as of three years ago – a beigel (cq) restaurant (as in bagels…Not Detroit quality but not bad at all.)  This is also the place to get a “salt beef sandwich” (aka a corned beef sandwich.) see: http://www.london-eating.co.uk/2687.htm

– Can’t remember the Bangladeshi restaurant we went to. This street and area nearby also has some funky vintage shops and galleries. This is the setting for Monica Ali’s novel “Brick Lane” (which is a decent movie too.) more info see: http://www.nytimes.com/2006/08/05/arts/05bric.html

– And then there’s all the new Olympic stuff to check out. for more details see: http://travel.nytimes.com/2012/01/29/travel/touring-londons-east-end.html?pagewanted=all

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Well I didn’t “sleep with Wright” but still…check out my travel story in the Star Tribune

HOT OFF THE PRESS/WEB:

Here’s a story I wrote that ran in the travel section of the (Minneapolis) Star Tribune last weekend. For the record,  I didn’t sleep with (Frank Lloyd) Wright (I’m not that kind of girl…or writer. And he is no longer with us…) but I did enjoy visiting the hotel.

http://www.startribune.com/lifestyle/travel/135314803.html#

In Iowa, sleeping with Wright

  • Article by: BETSY RUBINER , Special to the Star Tribune
  • Updated: December 10, 2011 – 9:21 AM

In Mason City, the Frank Lloyd Wright-designed Historic Park Inn gets a multimillion-dollar face-lift.

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London riots – not the city I love.

Just heard from two dear friends in London that they’re safe but very rattled by the rioting that has been raging across England. Makes me think back to 1981 when the Royal Wedding (Charles and Di) was followed by riots in London’s Brixton neighborhood  and Liverpool’s Toxteth neighborhood  (I was sent up to cover the Toxteth riots as a cub reporter, equipped with a notebook, pen, pen knife  and a banana. Yes, a banana given to me by a famous newspaper columnist who was visiting the London Bureau when I worked there. Fortunately I met a very nice magazine photographer on the train who was a riot veteran and we roamed the scary streets together.)

My pal F. reports that one of my old stomping grounds – the first place I lived in England, in 1980 – Ealing Broadway was heavily damaged by rioting and my pal M reports that she almost got caught up in rioting in Tottenham last weekend when she was going to a football match.  YouTube is full of disturbing riot scene videos. And one does wonder how this will affect attendance at the 2012 olympics hosted by London.

This from F.:  Just to let you know – we are okay here in war torn London. Very nasty scenes in the last few nights. Disaffected youth apparently organised by gang leaders are causing mayhem…mostly in inner city areas but sad to say -central Ealing near Ealing Broadway was pretty much destroyed last night by maurauding gangs.  I am pleased to say Mortlake has been untouched! All quiet in London so far but central Manchester and Birmingham are seeing big problems tonight. This is going to make our fragile economy even less likely to recover…and the Olympics is going to look less appealing to foreign visitors!

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Royal Wedding – from afar

Alas, I won’t be as near to this Royal Wedding as I was to the last big one thirty years ago, which I helped cover as a young reporter working in the London Bureau of a Yank newspaper. My British friends emailed today that wedding fever is finally starting to take hold of the capital – and perhaps the country. In addition to a republican (i.e. anti-monarchist) party where guests will dine on red food and NOT watch the wedding on the telly, one friend has been invited to a more traditional garden party at the home of a neighbor who has planted red, white and blue pansies for the occasion. Hope the weather permits (another friend reported its supposed to be rainy.)

I just may get up early tomorrow to tune in – although I’m not sure how early I can handle. I’ve got my new wedding kitsch just in time from my sister, who brought them back from a recent trip to England. A Wills-and-Kate tea towel and Wills-and-Kate mug. Hip Hip Hooray.

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the maps for foodies – MAPPETITE

Cool idea that I heard about on NPR’s “The Splendid Table” – MAPPETITE, which offers maps of  – to date, London, NYC and San Francisco – that highlight good restaurants in various neighborhoods. My brother could easily do the NYC map – I have long depended on him to find me a restaurant at a minute’s notice and he’s never failed (Case in point: Last Thanksgiving, when I texted him from MOMA saying “need cheap, good, place to eat near Moma” and he found us “La Bonne Soupe” around the block!) Anyway, check out MAPPETITE’s website for more details.

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Dog Collar Museum – in Kent, England

An old friend from London emailed me last week, after we fell out of touch for um, 16 years or so, and it has me thinking about all the adventures we had during the early 1980s when I lived in London.  Mima (my friend) comes from a family that has lived for generations in Herefordshire and had an crumbling ancestral home there, as well as another smaller country house we used to visit a lot.  It was beautiful.

She had a car – which was a big treat for me (a welcome break from hitchhiking) and we used to go exploring near London too. One place we visited was the Dog Collar Museum at Leeds Castle in Kent. I kid you not. I still have a photo of us with her sister Tilly standing in front of it. Now that I have a dog, I think I’d be even more interested/amused by the place and I’m glad to see that it’s still up and running. It has over 100 collars spanning five decades – many of them ornate metal affairs that puts my dog Ernie’s humble mass-produced cloth collar (it is embroidered with power flowers) to shame. I’ll be some of the hounds I watched during the latest episode of the superb PBS Masterpiece Classics series “Downton Abbey” wore these fancy smancy collars.

for more info see:

See: http://www.leeds-castle.com/goto.php?sess=u4120738|p136|n152|c2466436|s0|g1|d0&pg=Dog_Collar_Museum

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The Kate and William Walk – in London

First there was the Lady Diana walking tour of London. Now, just in time for the next royal wedding on April 29, comes the Kate and William walking tour offered by Celebrity Planet, a travel company in London. The tour is part Diana-and-Charles, with a stop outside the posh jewelry shop where Charles bought the diamond-and-sapphire ring for Diana that Kate is now wearing (one might consider this bad karma.)

The walk lasts 2.5 hours and costs $24 (15 pounds). There’s also a chauffeur-driven version for $120.  As if.

for more info see: http://www.thecelebrityplanet.com/london/celebrity-tours/prince-william-kate-royal-wedding-walking-tour.html

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