Category Archives: London

London: takemewithyou

For the first-time visitor to London (soon to be my friends A and N), what would I recommend doing and seeing?  Here’s idea #1:

South London walk along Thames through South Bank and Bankside areas, between Westminster Bridge and Tower Bridge – about four miles: For MAP see: http://www.southbanklondon.com/page/map/  and http://www.visitlondon.com/areas/search?category=attractions&scale=0.237&px=532869&py=179965

There’s a wonderful pedestrian path that hugs the Thames that you can walk for miles, passing some of the city’s most famous and interesting attractions. On a sunny Saturday, this area is absolutely packed but you’ll see a broad cross-section of Londoners at play – not to mention people from all over the world.  Here’s what you’ll see along the way:

1) Start on the north side of the Thames at   Westminster – by the Houses of Parliament obviously an interesting place these day with the first coalition government in 70 years. Cross over the Westminster Bridge to the south bank and head east.

2)  You’ll walk past the London Eye (giant Ferris wheel/tourist attraction)

3) and the  Southbank  arts complex (Royal Festival hall and National Theatre et. al)

4) cool art deco Oxo building (good cafe/restaurant inside with great views)

5)  Tate Modern, which you should stop and visit. An art historian friend of mine in DM who visited the Tate Modern (not to be confused with the original Tate in another neighborhood) dubbed it her all-time favorite museum after her first visit there in April. There’s always something going on there – inside and out. Arty crowd, interesting exhibitions and great views of the riverfront and people-watching from the museum’s cafe.

6) In front of the Tate is what may always be known as “the wobbly bridge” – aka the Millennium Bridge, a suspension pedestrian bridge that had some early structural issues (wobbliness.) Now fixed.

7) Walking further beyond it you’ll come to Shakespeare’s Globe Theatre (a replica but looks like the real McCoy),

8) to you’ll come to the Borough Market – tucked under a railroad viaduct. It’s not right on the water so follow signs (I’d guess there are some) or ask around.  Foodie paradise. Open thursday, friday and sat. (Saturday is zoo-iest.) Southwark Cathedral is nearby and worth a visit.

9) next up: super strange glass pickle-shaped building that houses new City hall, best known as “the Gherkin”

10) Last stop is Tower Bridge which leads to the Tower of London – packed with tourists but well worth a visit, especially if you’re a history buff.

At this point you may want to rest your legs and take a boat on the Thames back to Westminster or beyond or the other direction to Greenwich. Or take the Tube back to wherever.

Must stop for now – getting seriously homesick for London.

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oh to be a tourist in London as the election shakes out…

The drama, bordering on chaos, of the past five days in post-election Britain reminds me a bit of the fraught days after the Gore-Bush race in 2000. As a British politics junkie (I interned for a Labour MP in 1981 who was in the Cabinet until, um, five days ago. And I  have a dear friend who worked for another Cabinet member until, um, five days ago) I’ve been tuning into the BBC a lot online. One of the more amusing recent reports includes interviews with tourists hanging around Westminster – and documents the surrounding “media scrum” see: http://news.bbc.co.uk/2/hi/uk_news/politics/8678258.stm?ls

While there, you might check out the even more amusing video where Cameron admits referring to Clegg – in days past – as “a joke.” This is going to be interesting…

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London Hotels – takemewithyou

Full disclosure: I have been to London oh, maybe a dozen times. But I have never stayed in a hotel – I always stay with friends. (Or else I wouldn’t be able to afford a visit to London.) So when friends ask me for advice on London hotels – especially affordable London hotels – I am at a loss. But for my friends A and N, I’ve done a little sleuthing (my usual – just google NYTimes travel section) and this one sounds good – excellent central location, although could be a tad noisy, and remarkably reasonable price – if the rooms really do start at $136.  Dean Street Townhouse, 69-71 Dean Street, W1D; (44-207) 434-1775; deanstreettownhouse.com.

for more details see: http://travel.nytimes.com/2010/04/18/travel/18checkin.html (This same issue, which was on economical europe, may have some suggestions for paris – although I love the place we recommended to you there.)

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In and out of Indy

Quick trip to Indianapolis for a writing project and I had just enough time to wander around for a few hours in the Mass Ave Arts & Theater District which is still fledgling but has potential. Kind of makes the East Village in Des Moines seem like a long-established hip neighborhood by comparison. It dawned on me today – and I don’t know why it didn’t earlier – that I’m drawn to these revived neighborhoods where small entrepreneurs open up little galleries, boutiques, cafes and restaurants in old renovated brick buildings because my mom and dad did the very same thing in the 1960s when they opened their gallery in a then-very-unhip Royal Oak, Mi. (The hipness there came, alas, after they moved the gallery.)

Anyway, it was a gorgeous day in Indy – in the 70s and sunny so fun to walk the few blocks down Mass Ave. I stopped at a good gift shop – Silver in the city – and bought some tchotkes for friends; then ate at Yat’s, a hippie dippie fast food creole/Cajun restaurant. It had a line out the door at noon – and better yet a fast moving line – so I joined the crowd. Didn’t care much for the jambalaya (where’s the sausage?) but liked the moch chous or macque choux (or”mock shoe”) a lot – a sweet spicy  cajun dish made w/carmelized onions, sweet corn and chicken. Also found a cute cupcake store and great old shoe store. I wished I had a bike to ride around some of the residential streets just west of Mass Ave which looked like they were filled with restored wood frame houses re-painted in lovely bright colors. Next time.

Walked past the amazing Soldiers and Sailors Monument/fountain downtown which was full of sunbathing office workers lounging on the steps leading to the tall ornate tower erected in the 1860s to honors Hoosiers who fought in various wars. Reminded me a bit of Nelson’s Column in Trafalgar Square – so I got some postcards of it to send my London pals.

I stayed overnight at The Canterbury Hotel – (yes, someone else was paying ) a lovely boutique hotel right downtown. I had a tiny room on the 12th floor – the door looked like it would open right into the wardrobe but narrowly missed smashing it.   I had a great view of downtown. Ate dinner at 14 West Restaurant – nice ambiance, so-so food – too much mayo-or-cream inspired sauces on things. Word to wise – instead of paying $39 for a cab to the airport (which we did on the trip into town) the best deal around is the $7 airport shuttle which stops near various hotels including mine.

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