Category Archives: California

Five Lakes trail & Alpine Meadows; billionaires row & eastern lake trail/Incline Village, Gar Woods “wet Woody”/Carnelian Bay, Firesign Cafe breakfast & Tahoe House Pastries/Tahoe City

Five Lakes trail

We packed a lot into our last two days here, dividing our time between the California and Nevada sides of the Tahoe Region. Up the road from our Alpine Meadows abode, we spent several hours on the spectacular Five Lakes Trail, a five mile trek that is almost all uphill (or up mountain) outbound, zigging and zagging up a mountain dotted with tall pines below a ski lift at 8,673 feet altitude. I was very happy to finally reach the small clear lakes where we turned around and went downward. I later read the trailwas “strenuous” which was more offputting than the original “moderate” difficulty description.

Five lakes trail (my shirt from the democratic national convention was a hit with women hikers)

Feeling virtuous and achy, we took a drive north along the bay to the Nevada side of the lake on the east. In Incline Village, we drove along Lakeshore Boulevard, aka Billionaires Row, a heavily shaded road with large gated drives on the lake side with mansions, presumably, below. Twenty years ago, I had a chance to stay at one (long story) but balked at the coast of last minute plane tickets from Des Moines.

I’ve wanted to go to Lake Tahoe ever since. Just past Incline Village on highway 28, we found a wonderful trail for biking and walking that hugs the lake. I’ve heard it referred to as the legacy trail, the east shore trail. Whatever the name it was stunning. We parked along the highway (in one of the few spots permitted) rather than paying for lots further way and walked down along the water past Hidden Beach, toward a small visitors stop where you can park for 20 minutes and explore.

The trail continues a short distance to Sand Harbor State Park which looked like it has a great swimming beach. We also drove a little further to Thunderbird Lodge, a historic sight that was closed but looked interesting. Next trip.

The lakes many moods along the east shore trail, near Hidden beach

At Gar Woods, a restaurant and pier overlooking the lake in Carnelian Bay we had drinks (I had the speciality rum slushy, a “wet woody” (a somewhat rude sounding name) made with prickly pair syrup. We shared some steam clams and enjoyed the view from the deck.

Gar woods

In Kings Beach, we stopped at two of the shops lining the highway to get gifts, including the North Shore Art Center.

Gar woods view and pier
East shore trail

Near Tahoe City, we had an excellent Sunday brunch at the Firesign Cafe, another popular spot with locals, for good reason. We sat at the bar because the place was packed. Woodsy rustic decor. Warm and welcoming. We also picked up some goodies nearby at the Tahoe House Bakery, which also has some gourmet cheeses and charcuterie. We bought a huge ginger snap cookie and a slice of carrot cake – that’s dinner! Why not? We’re on vacation (for at least a half day more).

Scenic overlook on east side of lake south of incline village

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Eagle Rock Hike, Inspiration Point drive, Taylor Creek Visitor center (spawning salmon) – Tahoe city and south; Halloween parade, Cottonwood restaurant in Truckee

Eagle rock view of Lake Tahoe

We had gorgeous weather again, although chilly temps in the morning (30s, 40s) so we took a short steep hike (as advertised) up eagle rock for a spectacular panoramic view of Lake Tahoe. I think the anxiety of the hike, especially the short last part where the trail disappeared and we had to figure out how to get up the last rocky incline, was worth the view. I’ve never quite recovered psychologically from my fall at the end of a hike in Norway in 2018, when I tripped on a tree route and broke my arm (the second break for that arm.)

We tried to find a few other nearby hikes but couldn’t find the trailheads so we kept driving past emerald bay along a steep road carved into the mountain with hairpin curses and some but not all sections with guard rails. Again, the views at Inspiration Point of the emerald-colored bay and the navy water beyond were worth the anxiety of contemplating driving off the cliff.

Inspiration point

Taylor creek visitor center was closed for the season but we walked on the interpretative nature trail (the rainbow trail) to a clear broom and stream where salmon were spawning. Apparently this happened sometime between October and February for about a month so lots of people, some with huge cameras and tripods were on hand. In the clear water we could see red salmon darting around and several dead silver salmon.

Spawning salmon info

We learned that when Pacific salmon are ready to spawn (have offspring via eggs) they turn red to attract a mate. But after they lay eggs they turn back to silver and die because the whole process is so exhausting. (Atlantic salmon don’t die after spawning.)

Picnic on the deck

For sandwich fixings, we stopped at Tahoma country Market and then returned to our chalet in alpine meadows for a lovely lunch outside on the deck with a pine tree covered mountain in the distance.

Tonight we went to the charming town of Truckee where the annual Halloween parade was on tap. Dozens of children and their parents dressed in very creative costumes and walked behind a fire down Donner Pass road, the main drag lined with old Victorian buildings with shops for well-to-do visitors. Before the parade, the kids trooped through various boutiques, outdoor stores, art galleries and bars lining the street to collect candy from shopkeepers.

Truckee Halloween parade

Dinner was at the cottonwood restaurant, which has a great view from on high of downtown Truckee, a fun, lively bar and so-so food and service. We dropped into Moodys bistro in the old fashioned Truckee hotel, which has live music and a busy bar. It looked like fun but was packed.

Truckee Halloween parade

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Alpine Meadows, “the Lake,” emerald Bay, bridgetender – in and around Tahoe City

This is definitely the most scenic location I’ve phonebanked for Kamala from! Amazing that I can sit in a sweet chalet in the wooded Sierra Nevada mountains of Tahoe and call prospective voters in Michigan.

We have done other more Tahoe activities since arriving at my cousin’s spacious second home in Alpine Meadows, just north of Tahoe City (and the spectacular lake) and 13 miles south of the hip western town of Truckee. I’ve wanted to visit this area ever since the 1990s when we turned down a last minute invite (from Scott’s parents) to stay at a borrowed palatial home on the Nevada side of the lake in Incline Village. This home, which has four bedrooms and can sleep around 9 (it’s available for vacation rental) is palatial enough!

Emerald Bat (and the sole island in Lake Tahoe)

We’ve enjoyed sitting on the back deck, eating lunch with a Mountain View, surrounded by pine trees.

The pier in Tahoe city

The helpful woman at the tourist office in Tahoe City sent us off with a map of the city and a short walk along the water and a bigger map of the entire lake. She sent us to Emerald Bay, near sunset, where the water is indeed emerald green, in contrast to the stunning blues of the rest of the lake.

The view from on high at Inspiration Point

There’s a good scenic overlook where we looked out at the small island in the bay , the lanes only island, word has it..

Dinner was an excellent cheese and bacon burger cooked just as requested, at Bridgetender, a rustic tavern full of wood tables and countertops and woodsy art. We’re told it’s a favorite of locals and so it seemed, which worked for us! We also stopped at the West Shore market, a little bougie place but decided we could get what we needed at the local Safeway in Tahoe City.

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Biking in Golden Gate, uncle Benny’s donuts and the dumpling king in the sunset – San Francisco (and a little Oakland)

What a treat to have an expert on Golden Gate Park (see Susan’s Goldengatepark.substack.com) show us around, on borrowed bikes no less. We entered the park around 30th Ave and Lincoln and rode to the recently revamped middle Lake and then to the golden gate angling and casting club where practicing fly fishers cast their lines and try to hit various target hoops in the aqua-colored pool. A nice guy who works at the club’s lodge, a rustic WPA cabin, showed us around the place which has high narrow wood lockers for rods, old photos of champion anglers, and various trophies on display.

Hitching a ride

From there we peddled to jfKennedy drive which became car-free during the pandemic and has stayed that way, with sculptures dotting the wide road. We passed by a white botanical building that looked like a mini-Kew Gardens (of London fame) and so it was, with colorful landscaped gardens and a guy playing impressive classical music on a public piano.

Mini-Kew

We had coffee and a donut at uncle Benny’s donuts on Irving, which was hopping on a Wednesday morning and a late lunch on Taraval Street at Kingdom of Dumpling, a hole in the wall serving excellent steamed and pan fried dumplings, pork & spinach; shrimp and chives.

For dinner we picked up pizza on 9th Avenue and took it to Oakland where Susan and Eric’s charming “boys” live. This morning, we squeezed in one more visit to the park on another spectacular day, walking around the polo field with Susan’s sweet pup Juniper who leapt up on all fours at the sight of a dog friend approaching.

Oakland crew

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Burbank airport confiscation, San Francisco – Fort Funston and Mandalay Burmese in the Richmond, Tartine/sunset, Golden Gate and Dogtown

Alas my cheese spreaders didn’t make it through security at the Burbank airport, unlike at O’Hare, where they barely got through. So I arrived without a gift for our friends here in Sam Francisco. Next time, I’ll stick with tea towels.

Fort Funston

Other than that our short flight on Alaska airlines from Burbank to San Francisco went well. Safely ensconced in SF’s Sunset neighborhood, we took Susan’s dog on a walk at scenic Fort Funston, overlooking the Pacific and had a terrific Burmese meal in the Richmond at Mandalay, which as it happens won a James beard award this year. I can see why.

We sat outside in a heated area and had delicious food. Highlights: tea leaf salad (crunchy mix of nuts and leaves), samusa soup, naked eggplant, pork with green beans, chicken lettuce cups, balata /crispy pancakes.

This morning, Dirck and I had breakfast at Tartine, the famous SF bakery in the Mission that now has an outpost in the Sunset on 9th Avenue. We had an excellent morning bun (although the one at The commissary in burbank was mighty good too). Also amazing – the enormous country loaf and ham and cheese croissant. Oddly, we sat next to a guy I realized I knew from Chicago… after he left Tartine. So I emailed him to confirm it was him and he was still nearby so he returned to say hi. We walked back to Susan and Erica through glorious golden gate park, taking a few wrong turns, without complaint. Must look up Susan’s piece on substack about “desire lines” – off the beaten paths that develop in places both planned and wild like golden gate.

Fort Funston

Susan drive us to a gentrifying area in the south park of the city near the ballpark called Dogtown which amazing views of the east bay looking out at Oakland. The view was particularly astonishing from the rooftop of RH. An opulent furniture store in an old Bethlehem Steel Building. Breakfast in Sunset was coffee and a glazed donut at Uncle Benny’s on Irving.

Golden gate
RH bay view in Dogpatch

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Looking for distinctive LA and Pasadena places – Salazar in frogtown; Wanderlust in Atwater village; Daisy Mint (Thai) and Huntington gardens

We have mostly gone to old favorites during our visit to Burbank (high horse/base camp cafe; the commissary, Porto’s) and environs but last night my brother showed us some new (or new to us) spots including Salazar, in a neighborhood near Silver Lake called Frogtown (was told once that realtors come up with these neighborhood names, at least in Chicago) and Wanderlust, an ice cream shop in Atwater Village, run by south Asian entrepreneurs that has concocted exotic flavors, some with south Asian sounding names (Vietnamese rocky road, sticky rice and mango).

Salazar is in a dark quasi-industrial area near a highway but has a hip yet welcoming vibe, with a spacious concrete outdoor eating space with trees and tarps. (we never saw an indoor space).

The food is affordable, moderately inventive tacos and family style sides of roasted spicy corn, black beans, guacamole, and an assortment of margaritas. Wanderlust doles out small scoops of its ice cream with exotic names and tastes.

These places struck me as distinctly LA, which was refreshing after a visit to upscale “Old Pasadena” area where the old Spanish-style buildings are distinctly Pasadena (although not quite nlike the plaza in n Kansas City) yet house many of the same shops in our new hometown of Chicago,

some in our Lincoln Park neighborhood. That’s one difference about living in Chicago, vs. Des Moines where we had fewer of the lifestyle chain brands and big box shops that homogenize many major cities now. In Pasadena, we did find a few small and quirky independently owned shops selling Kamala election gear and vintage Chanel (north of Colorado blvd, the main drag on Holly near Raymond) and a flea market in more funky south Pasadena, on Mission Street near the train station, with its the small charming bungalows. And Pasadena’s long straight fancier residential streets lined with Spanish style houses with red stucco tile roofs, towering palms, bright red Bougainville, and lush green lawns scream California.

On a busy Sunday we returned to Pasadena for distinctly Pasadena experiences – lunch at the charming Thai restaurant Daisy Mint (sautéed eggplant, string beans with crispy tofu, large pieces of chicken satee) and the glorious Huntington Gardens (especially the Chinese and Japanese gardens).

At the Huntington

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Return to Burbank – Açaí jungle, magnolia Park vintage, Porto’s, Skyline Drive home and country club canyon road

Glad to be back to Burbank visiting my brother and family after too long. Last time I was here in early 2020, the pandemic was just starting. We still wore masks on our flight to LAX but are less worried about Covid. (Knock wood).

Skyline trail

We tried to take the flyaway bus from the airport but there wasn’t one readily available (40 minute wait) so we took an Uber. $86 and 1.5 hours since we arrived during rush hour. (thanks to a one hour flight delay.) unfortunately we didn’t have the Lyft app downloaded, which were told could have saved us $20 or so. (It’s now downloaded.)

At The Commissary, a beautiful server we guessed is an aspiring actor served us coffee and a delicious morning bun, a curly mound of croissant dough with a crispy cinnamon sugar crust. Lunch was excellent salads at açaí jungle. Then we visited the resale shop It’s a wrap (which sells clothing worn on various shows that film in the area) and nearby vintage and interesting gift shops in what’s know as Magnolia Park.

Last stop, the famous Cuban bakery Porto’s where several staff told me “ I like your shirt!” ( I was wearing my cheerful Harris-Walz tee) and a woman visiting from Arizona asked if she could give me a hug. She and her party are also Harris-Walz supporters. They are cautiously optimistic about the tickets chances in Arizona.

Porto’s

We were the only hikers and on a narrow trail high above Burbank, where we could see the silhouette of downtown LA in the distance, a little further off than the downtown Chicago silhouette from our apartment. Although the mountain bikers were in on the secret, which wasn’t that big a deal. (It’s off skyline drive.) we also drove on a narrow canyon road past a lovely pink Spanish style stucco house with terraced gardens that was the club house of a long gone country club.

Açaí jungle

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For my next trip to L.A. and beyond (trying to remain optimistic!) Other options for pandemic outings in New Orleans, D.C., DSM, Chicago…

These are some of America’s most beautiful urban parks
See the nation’s geographical diversity, history, and grandeur—without leaving the city.

Read in National Geographic: https://apple.news/AF-vvfA4XT02TA4Wzvp6zGw

L.A. BARNSDALL ART PARK

Within walking distance of the trendy Los Angeles neighborhood of Los Feliz, this tiny park normally draws crowds for art classes and Friday wine tastings. But now visitors come for ambles around the landscape and architect Frank Lloyd Wright’s first and only L.A. opus, Hollyhock House, commissioned in the 1920s by oil heiress Aline Barnsdall. In 2019 the home and seven other Wright-designed buildings in the United States were added to the UNESCO World Heritage List.

Good stuff here too!:  (Related: Explore secret urban walks in Los Angeles, Chicago, and D.C.)

 

Explore some of America’s secret urban walks

Step into history and nature on these surprising summertime strolls in Los Angeles, Chicago, and Washington, D.C.

 

IN A SPRING and summer of coronavirus lockdowns and travel slowdowns, our usual modes of escape—planes, trains, cruise ships—have become fraught with health, ethical, and even legal perils. Suddenly, flying to see relatives in Arizona or Amsterdam or hopping a train to New York City for the weekend have become major life choices instead of simple vacation whims. And many types of trips (cruises, vacations to Europe for Americans) aren’t even possible during this Summer of Corona.

It’s no wonder that people from Paris to Pittsburgh have turned to their own two feet—and places in their own backyards—to get out and see the world. In the U.S., depending on where you live, that might mean hiking in a nearby state park, running on a local beach, or just strolling through deserted downtowns.

© NGP, Content may not reflect National Geographic’s current map policy.

Still, with so many people getting outdoors, many popular paths and parks are overrun. These writers, in three cities across America, found unusual, less-traveled places to walk. Here’s how they got out of the house—and out of their heads.

Steep, secret staircases in Los Angeles

An introvert, I welcomed the stillness of quarantine. Yet, after months of being homebound with my sweet-tempered cat in Long Beach, California, I missed the outdoors. Apparently, so did thousands of equally stir-crazy Angelenos who, once spring stay-at-home orders lifted, poured out onto beach paths and hiking trails.

 

It was hard to avoid crowds, but I had an ace up my sweatshirt sleeves. All over Los Angeles, cement or wood outdoor stairways are sandwiched between apartment complexes and tucked away in unassuming neighborhoods. Dating back to the 1920s and 1930s, these pedestrian byways were incorporated into new residential developments built around light-rail lines and trolley systems.

“The stairs were erected when the city started expanding into the hilly neighborhoods of Echo Park, Silver Lake, Mount Washington, and Highland Park,” says Charles Fleming, who wrote the book Secret Stairs: A Walking Guide to the Historic Staircases of Los Angeles. “People moving into the hills often didn’t have cars, so, they needed an efficient way to get down to the Pacific Electric Railway trolley system, the markets, and the schools.”

A man runs up a set of stairs in the Silver Lake neighborhood of Los Angeles.

PHOTOGRAPH BY JONATHAN ALCORN, ZUMA PRESS/ALAMY STOCK PHOTO
 

While the trolleys were dismantled in the ’40s and ’50s, the stairs remained. Fleming’s book documents more than 275 of them, each with distinct views and quirks. In hip Silver Lake, where street art flourishes, the Murray Stairway is painted to resemble piano keys and the Micheltorena Stairs bear rainbow stripes. Nearby, The Music Box Stairs and Three Stooges Stairs have silver-screen pasts: starring roles in Laurel and Hardy’s 1932 Music Box and the Stooges’ 1941 An Ache in Every Stake, respectively. Both movies feature the hijinks of delivering heavy objects—a piano and blocks of ice—up the outlandishly steep steps.

One morning during quarantine, I headed to one of the oldest—and most challenging—set of stairs in the city. The view from the bottom of the Eldred Street Stairs alarmed me with its 33.3 grade, which rises and dips like a roller-coaster track. Located in Los Angeles’s Mount Washington neighborhood, it’s the steepest street in California, beating San Francisco’s famed Filbert Street by 1.8 percent.

 

I took a deep breath and started climbing, my movements comically slow as I steadily gained 219 feet in elevation during the short 0.1-mile hike to the top. Sweat trickled down my forehead, and I had to take frequent breaks to catch my breath. I spied 1920s Craftsman bungalows, preposterously built along the hill. How did early inhabitants drive up to their garages, presumably in Model Ts? The street felt nearly vertical.

The Baxter Stairs cross through the Echo Park neighborhood in Los Angeles.

 

PHOTOGRAPH BY RACHEL NG
 

The journey was likely even more arduous for residents on Cross Avenue, who had to scale an additional 196 steps up a wooden staircase past the peak of Eldred Street to get home. At the bottom of the Eldred Stairs, legs quivering, I considered turning back. But the mystery of the foliage-shrouded climb ahead beckoned.

Ascending the deserted stairs felt like stepping into the past. I imagined some silent film hero tipping his straw boater hat as I passed. But I was alone, joined only by Monarch butterflies and playful sparrows who darted among the blue morning glories and overgrown weeds peeking through the stair railings.

I finally reached the top, popping out onto a narrow residential street with a scenic overlook. I soaked in the cool breeze, plus spectacular views of craggy Mount Baldy and the San Gabriel Mountains. I was done for the day, but that first outing inspired me to conquer other climbs: the Mattachine Steps in Silver Lake, dedicated to Harry Hay, founder of the Mattachine Society, one of the earliest LGBTQ rights group in the U.S. Next on my list: an Echo Park trek that leads to Angelino Heights, a late 19th-century neighborhood dotted with Victorian and Queen Anne mansions that seem popped out of a storybook.

During the pandemic, I’ve dreamt of time traveling to life after the crisis or to the glorious before times. Venturing up these old stairways is, in a way, like journeying into a bygone Los Angeles. It’s been just the escape I needed. —Rachel Ng

Down by the river in Chicago

Ordinarily, the glassy expanse of Chicago’s Lake Michigan attracts both photo ops and crowds of people who walk, bike, run, or sun themselves along the shore. But when this spring’s COVID-19 shutdowns closed the lakefront, I found a different watery escape: strolling the connected parks and paths along the North Branch of the Chicago River.

The multi-forked, 156-mile river winds from Lake Michigan through a series of other waterways that finally connect with the Mississippi River. Historically, the Chicago River has been a route for both indigenous people and European settlers, allowing Chicago to flourish as a major industrial city. But for me, during this pandemic, trails along the river have transformed into a secret world where I can get my nose out of my phone and into nature. Well, at least for a couple of miles a couple of times a week.

Measuring 1,000 feet long, the new Riverview Bridge on the North Branch of the Chicago River is the longest pedestrian bridge over water in the city.

PHOTOGRAPH BY TODD BANNOR, ALAMY STOCK PHOTO
 

All it takes to get to my hideaway? A quick turn into what I think of as my personal portal: a cut in the railing of the Belmont Avenue Bridge near my home in the Avondale neighborhood. Just west of Western Avenue, I leave the busy road and zigzag down a concrete ramp to the meandering asphalt trail along the river.

The murky green water to my left, I walk through a thicket of trees and step inside a corner of Richard Clark Park called The Garden. Even during the pandemic, this hidden dirt-bike park was semi full of excited kids whooping and whipping their wheels over multiple mounds of soil, twisting and turning in an exhilarating escape from confinement. My 12-year-old nephew was often among them.

In the Garden, happy screams echo through the trees, a diversion from my doomscrolling on Twitter before I continue on my walks. And the land the bikes roll on has a long history of fun: it’s the site of the former Riverview Park. The legendary amusement park operated wooden roller coasters and toboggan rides from 1904 to 1967 under the slogan “laugh your troubles away.”

As I walk north on the trail, a contemporary grey stone building rises like a series of undulating waves. It’s the WMS Boathouse, designed by local architectural star Jeanne Gang, opened in 2013 as part of the city’s ongoing efforts to revitalize the riverfront. Gang used her trademark crisp engineering and green infrastructure elements (rain gardens, porous concrete that helps store and filter river water) to make a structure that’s both a design and environmental win.

In other summers, I’d rent a canoe outside the boathouse, or peek inside at the rowers who train here. Though the building is quiet this year (rentals and programs are on hold for now), the structure’s serene, zigzaggy roof still soothes me, a reminder that tough times, like flowing water, eventually move on.

Just beyond, my running shoes hit Riverview Bridge, a new concrete path that gently climbs 18 feet above the river. The slither of concrete with rusty steel tooth-like railings is popular with runners and bikers. Me, I slow down to a saunter high above the water, surveying the tops of surrounding trees, imagining I’m far from home before I turn around.

The bridge connects to an old path in California Park, where it ends. For now, at least. Work is underway for more legs of what urban planners aim to make one contiguous river trail. In these long, repetitive days, even small developments—like an extension of my secret world—feel like hope. —Kate Silver

Graveyard rambles in Washington, D.C.

During the pandemic, I‘ve been strolling amid hundreds of people, none of them wearing masks. But don’t COVID shame me: they’re all buried six feet under in historic Washington, D.C. cemeteries, so I’m not worried about social distancing.

My adopted hometown is famously rich in green spaces—Rock Creek Park, a ribbon of grass, trees, and water; the monument- and museum-studded National Mall. But during months of lockdown, my usual paths were jammed with runners and walkers, many unmasked and going about their sweaty, potentially germ-spreading business like it was 2019.

So my husband Callan and I retreated to cemeteries for walks that were often, well, deathly quiet. Our ambles started in March in Glenwood Cemetery, a still-active burial ground in the northeast quadrant of the city near Catholic University.

Built in 1859, the chapel at Oak Hill Cemetery in Washington, D.C.’s Georgetown neighborhood was designed by James Renwick Jr., also the architect of the Smithsonian Institute’s “Castle” on the National Mall.

PHOTOGRAPH BY B. CHRISTOPHER, ALAMY STOCK PHOTO
 

We came seeking exercise and a look at the grave of Reginald Wycliffe Geare, an early 20th-century architect infamous locally for designing D.C.’s Knickerbocker Theatre. It collapsed in a blizzard in 1922, killing 98 people. Geare also drew up the plans for our 1920 townhouse, which seems to weather storms OK, so we wanted to pay tribute.

On laps around Glenwood’s rolling acerage, Callan and I discovered more than Geare’s simple, flat stone. In spring, cotton candy-pink cherry blossoms backdropped weathered, grouchy stone cherubs. On Memorial Day, we witnessed a funeral procession where brightly dressed mourners on motorcycles provided a bittersweet foil to the dark hearse they followed.

Each time we dropped by, greeted by a swarm of life-sized, trumpet-playing stone angels, we’d discover more evidence of life and death’s rich pageant: a clutch of early 20th-century Greek immigrants in a family plot; recent, silk flower-decked tombstones engraved with Ethiopian surnames, a sign of D.C.’s large immigrant population. And just last week, my genealogist husband discovered two distant relatives were interred there under an expansive elm, an Ancestry.com data point made real.

A weathered stone cherub tops a gravestone at Glenwood Cemetery in Washington, D.C.

PHOTOGRAPH BY JENNIFER BARGER, NATIONAL GEOGRAPHIC
 

I cop to morbidly scanning headstones for 1918 or 1919 passings (Spanish flu?). But I mostly consider these strolls a pleasant revival of the 19th-century cemetery movement holding that graveyards should be like public parks, gathering places where well-dressed Victorian crowds held picnics, concerts, or even horse races.

“Back then, if you had distinguished out-of-town guests, you’d take them to see the gravesites of local worthies and show off the sculptures,” says Keith Eggener, a graveyard historian, architecture professor at the University of Oregon, and author of the book Cemeteries. “They became so popular, people started to lead tours of them and write guidebooks.”

Those boneyard guides would’ve had a lot to talk about at the Georgetown nabe’s shaded, creek-side Oak Hill Cemetery, which I turned to for one-on-one, six-feet-apart strolls with girlfriends as D.C. rolled from crisp spring to boggy, hot summer. Amid tombs dating back to the 1850s, the steep stone steps and winding paths worked out both my calves and sense of mortality.

Civil war officers, sea captains, and other notables are buried amid the towering oaks. Abraham Lincoln’s son Willie’s body was temporarily interred here in a cliffside masoleum in 1862, inspiring George Saunders’ recent graveyard novel, Lincoln in the Bardo. And legendary Washington Post editor Ben Bradlee’s remains are entombed here behind a metal sculpture of a tree.

One June day, as I turned to leave the graveyard, I saw a spotted baby deer peeking out from behind a grizzled Victorian gravestone, all bright eyes and shaky legs. The lush, secluded surroundings seemed to make Bambi—like me—feel very alive indeed. —Jennifer Barger

Los Angeles-based writer Rachel Ng hopes to be fit enough to walk the Great Wall of China someday. Follow her on Instagram.
Kate Silver is a Chicago-based travel, business, and health writer—and walking enthusiast. Follow her on Instagram.

 

 

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Flying during a possible pandemic

I have flown three times during the past 10 days (Feb 29-March 9) of the coronavirus situation (Des Moines to San Francisco via Vegas on Southwest; San Francisco to Burbank on Southwest; Burbank to DSM via Salt Lake City on Delta) and here’s what I noticed:

– A few people wearing masks, not many.

– A few people wiping their seating area with wet wipes and their hands with hand sanitizer. (Me included by flying day #2 when I found unopened wipes in my travel bag that I bought last fall in Vietnam. Otherwise I wouldn’t have been doing…I couldn’t find wipes in San Francisco or Burbank. We found hand sanitizer only after we asked a shop keeper in San Francisco who let us know he had a secret stash behind the counter. “One per family,” he said. Which seemed wise.)

– Not many people are using their tray tables or tucking things into their seat pocket. I predict a (further?) decline in readership of the in-flight mag, not to mention the safety brochure. One woman I saw using her tray table for her laptop was wearing a mask. Huh?

– My delta flight today (March 9) was delayed for cleaning but only a few minutes (and I welcomed the cleaning.) Southwest attendants wore gloves. But my delta flight attendant didn’t wear gloves while serving but did when picking up empty cups. (But she was very pleasant and offered a wider snack selection including granola bars than the other flights.)

– The occasional sneeze or cough (including by me…allergies. Really!) is more noticeable and noticed.

– My second flight had lots of empty seats. We all took our own aisles and window seats. (Maybe we read the same article saying that window seats exposure you to less germs.) Pleasant surprise for this aisle-flyer: it was fun looking out the window.

– Other flights, including the one I am on now, seem almost full (although I have no neighbor.) Maybe more people would cancel if the airlines (other than always reasonable Southwest) extended their Covid-9-inspired, no-charge-for-changes policy so it includes flights right now (not just those purchased between now and March 31. Thx guys but you could do better. Your self- interest is showing.)

– people are calm and pleasant. Not sure I would know anything was different if I didn’t read the news.

– I noticed new signs (I think) in the bathroom in Des Moines (some that could use copy editing) asking “travellers” (yes, misspelled) to wash their hands.

– I also found myself not holding onto the railing on the escalator, to avoid germs and making use of sanitizer stations.

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Filed under California, flying

Jon and vinnys (on fairfax), rodeo drive, larchmont village – Los Angeles

My brother has a knack for finding hidden gem restaurants in urban neighborhoods and I am pleased to see that this continues from his New York days into this latest Los Angeles chapter, which is how I ended up eating at a small hole-in-the-wall called Jon & Vinny’s in what we think is West Hollywood. I had to wait 45 minutes but it was worth it. I ended up sitting at a small counter facing the very busy chefs and the wood fired oven where all pizzas and other hearty fare were moved around.

I ended up getting a salad with a slightly spicy Calabrian dressing and toasted bread crumbs on each leaf…delicious and some perfectly grilled bread that had more flavor than I expected. I would love to return with companions so we could share a pasta, pizza, meatball or dessert. Next trip.

I also walked down Rodeo Drive, for the heck of it, since I hadn’t been to Beverly Hills in decades and then to the original farmers market (near Jon & Vinnys) and then to Larchmont Village for a quick walk around and some ice cream at salt & straw. Today we are lying low but made a quick visit to the farmers market in Burbank. It never gets old seeing fresh oranges, grapefruits, kale, avocados and artichokes this time of year. Also took my darling niece Lucy to the local Donut Prince – her choice – and was surprised to see Californians dining on donuts at 4 p.m. on a Sunday.

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Filed under California, Los Angeles, Uncategorized