
Yesterday was a drive south through the mountains. Today was a drive east along the coast, with some welcome sunshine that made the undulating bright green valleys, brown sandy beaches, foamy white waves, and villages lined with ancient stone buildings all the more dazzling.

We walked with our hosts and their two big white dogs along the beach a short walk from the cottage. (The wild boar M spotted dead on the beach yesterday was gone. Amen.) Sun, clouds, patches of blue sky, the red tiled roofs of the village in the distance, and then more green peaks and behind them snow capped mountains: just stunning.



Our drive east was along a narrow curving road high above the water. We went to the Museo de Altamira, a “neocave” near the famous ancient city of Santillana Del Mar, which is a remarkable reproduction of the ancient cave and its red and black cave paintings of bison, horses and cows dating back 15,000+ years. Apparently the real cave nearby is too fragile for visitors so this reproduction was created. Not quite like the real caves we’ve visited but impressive in its own way, for its apparently faithful reproduction.

Lunch was at el Castillo Del los locos, a little bar/cafe with glass walls looking out on the ocean. The view was the main attraction and an impressive one. We drive through the ancient town of Santillana Del Mar where we stayed in 1989 and it looked largely as I vaguely remembered, minus tourists or cows that were led through the main cobbled street when we visited. The town of Comillas also was charming and hope to return when the weather is more inviting for a stroll.

