Churches galore and trendy dining – Lecce


Basilica Santa Croce

I can see why Lecce is sometimes called the Florence of Puglia. It is full of huge stunning churches and stylish shops and restaurants. We bought an 11 euro ticket to see three of the main churches, all ornate Baroque: the 16th century cathedral/duomo (and crypt), the 1738 church of Santa chiara (with a ceiling that looks wooden but is paper mache); and the 16th/17th century basilica Santa Croce, made of Lecce stone, some intricately carved to resemble lace or embroidery, which was my favorite. Lecce’s aristocratic families competed with each other to commission the most detailed altar. (Hence there are 17 altars.)

Basilica heavy load

The baroque exterior facade has entertaining sculptures of animals, including a few humans, holding up the building. Inside, I was amused by the upside down cherubs/angels holding up some of the building with their chubby little feet. Next to the Basilica is a Jewish museum, on the site of a former synagogue. Found it interesting that this city of 100-some churches once had a sizable Jewish population. (An aside: We have noticed several Palestinian flags and Pro Gaza signs throughout our trip in Italy.)

Dirck at the Duomo

Thx again to Puglia guys.com for helping us find another restaurant off the beaten tourist track, this one a stylish contemporary place with few tourists called 300 Mila. But we also enjoyed a major tourist hotspot near the Roman Amphitheater in the huge piazza sant ‘OronzoCafe Alvino where I tried the cafe Leccese (expresso shot with almond syrup served over ice), and two traditional foods – pasticciotto (too sweet for us) and the savory rustica (a delicious hot-from-the-oven puff pastry pocket filled with creamy bechamel, mozzarella and Pomodoro.)

Cafe alvino with rustica.

Pugliaguys.com also helped us find free parking. The drive along the autostrada was, sadly, not scenic. We couldn’t see the Adriatic over the high concrete median. We tried to take a more scenic route back but kept making wrong turns.

At 300mila

Didn’t help that our phone (with essential GPS) was dying and sometimes the internet crapped out. Next trip we need to have a USB C adapter for our old school USB A phones so we can use the charger in the car!

more animals with heavy load at basilica

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