
My phone notified me today that I set a personal record : 790 calories burned. Of course I probably ate way more than that today: this is Naples! I wore my No Kings shirt, in solidarity with the marchers back home that I desperately wanted to join. Several Americans at our hotel said “nice shirt!” And one asked if she could take a photo with me. “How are we going to get out of this?” She asked,

We walked through the sanita district north of us, which had even more chaotic street that the old city. Narrow streets lined with five story buildings with laundry hanging everywhere, scooters and cars and walkers vying for patch’s of pavement. I loved it.

And then suddenly after walking up and up and up we were in a gorgeous Capodimonte park with ancient trees, glamorous Italians, and stunning views from on high of the port, Vesuvius, capri, sorrento. We sat st a cafe in the park overlooking a sweeping lawn with huge trees, drinking the best lemon granita of my life.

We took a crazy cab ride to another glorious spot with a spectacular view: the San Marino monastery and then walked carefully on wise steps leading down the mountain to what turned out to be the jam-packed old town streets we walked yesterday. We chanced upon what turned out to be a famous cheese/meat shop pan e muzzarell that made a spectacular sandwich for us, that we co-designed: grilled eggplant, tomatoes, mozzarella, prosciutto, pesto. (790 calories at least!) it was 4 pm and a very late lunch after much exhaustion. The place kingly had four stools outside and a countertop to eat as the crowds moved past.

Next stop, the gorgeous tiled cloister of the Santa chiara church, following friend alissa Rubin’s suggestion. (Our guidebook failed to mention the cloister in its church description.) dinner 3 hours later was fantastic at Locanda gesu vecchio, a small place that was completely packed on a Saturday night (I made reservations ages ago.) eggplant Parmesan like I have never tasted before. Rich, dark, red and black and melt in your mouth. And another appetizer I’d never heard of, almost like a Mexican concoction. A thick crispy fried noodle wrapped around strongly succulent stringy beef with raisens and pine nuts
