We last visited Naples 12 years ago, for only a few hours as we were moving between the amalfi coast and Sicily. We were intrigued by this noisy, dirty, gorgeous, mesmerizing place and Elena Ferrente’s My Brilliant Friend quartet only intensified our interest. So what a joy to spend a day wandering through the old town, down narrow passageways lined with high buildings with laundry blowing on the lines and the occasional basket is lowered down several stories by a rope to retrieve whatever is bring put in it.
We followed Rick Steve’s walking tour through the heart of the old town, past stalls filled with the days catch from the sea, strange crèche/nativity scenes with figures of famous figures from the pope to harry and Meghan, and the strange symbol of this city, a red chili pepper /phallic-looking symbol called a cornicelli. Described as a red horn Corni for good luck.
we are staying Hotel Piazza Bellini, an elegant early nineteenth century mansion with an airy open courtyard and contemporary furnishings and rooms. First stop, Pizza of course at Attanasio on via tribunali recommended by an excellent concierge, then a walk down some of the main old downtown streets, some glorified alleys. Many of The buildings are made monumental.
The elegant theatre around the block has an upcoming show called “Donald” and Halloween is a thing here too. Dinner was at a fantastic easy going seafood place around the block, Sottocoperta taverna di mare. (Sea tavern) Never had such delicious (lightly) fried shrimp,anchovies, and calamari, or melt in your mouth tuna lightly marinated, served with corn kernels. We also had drinks inside the faded glory of the Galleria principe, a 19th century glass ceilinged art nouveau shopping arcade.
Can’t wait to see more tomorrow!
TakeBetsywithyou 