After pledging not to over walk, we ended up walking 21,600 steps or roughly 10 miles because Rome is a hard place to stop walking. There is always something else, around the corner, up the street, to the left or right. We started by walking across the River to via giulia, one of Rome’s prettiest streets, admiring the well-kept tall residences. Then onto via dei giubbonari , a favorite Shopping street. We ate takeout pizza at old favorite, Roscioli, sitting on a makeshift bench on the side of the narrow street to eat, precariously balancing the food and drink. At Ibiz, my favorite family owned leather store, I mentioned that I’ve been visiting the store since 2014. When the cashier rang up some leather key rings I bought as gifts, she responded by giving me one as a gift. No charge.
On to trevi fountain, newly scrubbed, which was so mobbed with tourists that I most found myself almost physically sandwiched between people. not fun. The city does have its overtouristed moments and spots. (Trastevere is packed at night but it makes the place fun!)
The mob at Trevi is how we ended up in the pretty neighborhood of Monti. I wanted a place that was calmer, less touristed. Which is how we found Monti, with lots of nice little boutiques on quiet streets including via Urbana, we ended up st the same gelato place, fatamorgana, we went to when last in a Monti. (It’s also apparently in LA.) Three trends in a Monti: charm stores for bracelets (Taylor Swift effect?), bag locker stores (Airbnb effect?) and vintage stores (also many in Trastevere.)
Tonight we ate for the take out window spot a nearby restaurant Checco er Carrettiere in via Benedetta . Roast chicken and pasta amitriana.
Our Airbnb host, who could match any hotel concierge with her attentive helpfulness also recommended:
Taverna Trilussa (piazza Trilussa )
Corrado Trattoria (via Della Pelliccia )
Augusto Trattoria (piazza de Renzi )
TakeBetsywithyou 