Road trip to the Adriatic and amazing seafood at Da Maria in Fano, Italy


Da Maria

For a change of scenery, we drove about 45 minutes west to the Adriatic coast, passing through two small walled villages high on a cliff with medieval castles (casteldimezzo, fiorenzuola di focara) overlooking the seaside. The area is very lightly touristed, and feels somewhat wild. It’s a nature preserve. We saw a few walkers/hikers and some very hardy cyclists (including one with one leg) who were navigating major uphills and downhills.

Lunch (second course)

This was the prettiest part. It was followed by two large sprawling relatively unattractive coastal cities, (pescara, Fano).

More lunch

But in Fano we found Da Maria an amazing trattoria serving fresh seafood that I’d read about, run by a mother (Maria) and daughter. Unassuming on the outside, inside it was very old world with funky decor and a patio with strung seashells hanging down from the ceiling over a handful of tables. There’s no menu. You just get one amazing fresh seafood catch after another. We were served polenta topped with sautéed pieces of shrimp, an enormous platter of steamed white fish, shrimp, langoustine, clams, followed by a fish and seafood stew in a tomato broth. Way too much food (and 50 euro a person but it would be way more in the states… or Rome) but delicious and nice change from all the meat we’ve been eating.

After lunch on the patio
Inside Da Maria

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