What a different place we are in today. We said a sad goodbye to our rustic Tuscan retreat and drove east to Urbino, a walled city that feels very different than the others we visited. It’s a college town and apparently we arrived on graduation day so students wore Olive leave crowns reminiscent of Ancient Greece with goofy clothing from suits decorated with cartoon characters to a blow up fat suit. They were literally dancing the Macarena in the central historic plaza.


Our Airbnb is in an ancient building in the walled city on a narrow passageway along the outer ramparts but it is ultra sleek white and black contemporary Italian inside with a sprawling white leather couch, a giant portrait of a sneering Amy Winehouse, sleek white handleless cabinets, a very modern kitchen under a curving brick archway, interesting light fixtures.

We stopped along the way in the fortress town of San Leo also which has a spectacular setting almost in the clouds, it’s a tiny place with a huge dramatic castle high on a mountaintop, a small ancient town square with a few churches. Our only issue was we couldn’t seem to get down off the hilltop. A large potato festival that drew hundreds of people to a nearby village blocked the road to Urbino, but we finally figured out an alternative that took us around many an isolated hairpin turn.
