San Leo and Urbino – Emilia Romagna and the marche


What a different place we are in today. We said a sad goodbye to our rustic Tuscan retreat and drove east to Urbino, a walled city that feels very different than the others we visited. It’s a college town and apparently we arrived on graduation day so students wore Olive leave crowns reminiscent of Ancient Greece with goofy clothing from suits decorated with cartoon characters to a blow up fat suit. They were literally dancing the Macarena in the central historic plaza.

Approaching San Leo
San Leo

Our Airbnb is in an ancient building in the walled city on a narrow passageway along the outer ramparts but it is ultra sleek white and black contemporary Italian inside with a sprawling white leather couch, a giant portrait of a sneering Amy Winehouse, sleek white handleless cabinets, a very modern kitchen under a curving brick archway, interesting light fixtures.

Grads dance in Urbino

We stopped along the way in the fortress town of San Leo also which has a spectacular setting almost in the clouds, it’s a tiny place with a huge dramatic castle high on a mountaintop, a small ancient town square with a few churches. Our only issue was we couldn’t seem to get down off the hilltop. A large potato festival that drew hundreds of people to a nearby village blocked the road to Urbino, but we finally figured out an alternative that took us around many an isolated hairpin turn.

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