Haim sisters at the synagogue in the Jewish ghetto, carcoifi at Sora Margherita, piazza mattei, via Giulia, via giubbonari, roscioli, ibiz/ central storico and dinner near the Vatican at Romanè – Roma

I bumped into some people I know at the Jewish museum and synagogue here and they almost acted like they knew me too. They didn’t. They are a famous band – – the LA band Haim! And they couldn’t have been nicer. Two of three Haim sisters Alana and Danielle were there, not Esme…Just being tourists in Rome after playing a concert in London. We chatted for quite awhile and it felt like I’d bumped into old friends. They’re adorable. (Do I sound like a Jewish mother or what?)

The synagogue, btw, is well worth a visit. Built in 1901, gorgeous high-domed, stenciled. Apparently there are about 14,000 Jewish people in Italy. The pope was not initially a fan. He saw to it that the two gates into the Jewish ghetto were locked at night in the 1500s but things improved and John Paul (the polish 20th century one) visited the synagogue.

The museum had some interesting ancient relics too. We ate an excellent crispy fried carcoifi/artichoke, melon and prosciutto, cacio de pepper with ricotta and Parmesan nearby in the Jewish ghetto at Sora Margharita, a lively hole in the wall overlooking a pretty courtyard.

We visited some old favorites in central storico (via giulia, via giubbonari for shopping; campo de fieri market, roscioli salumeria and pizza takeaway, ibiz Leather shop where dirck bought a belt and I tried to remember where the purse I bought there 9 years ago is back in Chicago. (They would have cleaned it if I brought. Next trip.) we stopped for a drink in a lovely little piazza Mattei with its sweet 1598 sculpture and water fountain with nude dancers and climbing turtles.

We walked along the river lined with high plane/sycamore trees to the Testaccio market but wrong timing..,the market was closed, as were the shops. Dinner was far afield near the Vatican at the excellent Romanè, sort of akin to the rising chef bistros we went to in Paris. We wanted to bust out of our lovely but touristed neighborhood and eat where locals eat. Best pasta amitriana ever. And fun laid back atmosphere. We arrived at 8. Lots of people came an hour later.