Roma never disappoints – Casa di Francesca romana, The Hole birreria, Terra Satis wine Bar, chiesa di Santa Maria dell’orto, – Trastevere

We are back, after nine years, at the same fantastically-located, remarkably affordable, somewhat spartan hotel ($150 for a double room) in what still feels a bit like the 1400s convent or monastery it once was. casa di Francesca Romana is in a relatively quiet part of the charming Trastevere neighborhood. About a block from the Tiber river. We walked here from the # 8 bus stop that we took (first the wrong way, oops) from the Trastevere train station through winding narrow streets paved in small square black stones, our bags rumbling along, past the occasional artisan’s studio, sportcar auto mechanic, and one particular cheese and salumi deli of my dreams, 1900s-era Antica caciara trasteverina

This is a great walking city and that’s what we do. Walk down whatever alleyway or tight street appeals. The things we stumble upon never fail to amaze. At one point we were walking on a suddenly bland street with a massive police station, spotted a beckoning open door and stepped into an incredibly ornate church (chiesa di Santa Maria dell’Orto circa 1550) with carved white angels (or some such) popping out from the gold leaf and frescoes on the ceiling. (A mirror was helpfully placed on a table in the main aisle so we could get a proper look at the artwork high above us on the ceiling.)

we had the place to ourselves and noticed that there were little shrines in the alcoves paying tribute to various producers of pasta, wine and shoes (it was built not at the popes behest but by merchants and artisans — millers, pasta makers, oil merchants, butchers, fruit merchants, cobblers). The pasta alcove has wheat motifs spotted by Dirck the Kansan.

We were so exhausted and hungry upon arrival (after a very long trip connecting thru Dublin) that we barely could decide what treat to eat at the little outdoor wine bar (Terra Satis) near our Casa. Simple grilled bread with melted cheese, bright red cherry tomatoes and tuna in olive oil was perfect, plus a plate of mozzarella, prosciutto and tomatoes. Must get used to outdoor smokers and vapers although at the bar (hole Birreria) we went to for a beer and aperol spritz, there were card-playing young couples not smokers,. A French couple played Uno. Australians played gin rummy and were fun to chat with. (It took them 20 hours to get here. Twice as long as our trip. )

We got a 5 page history (after inquiring about the origins of this Casa) about the woman this place is named after. Francesca is apparently the second most famous saint in these parts..a wealthy woman who took to begging for the poor. Still unclear what this building was. There’s a photo of the latest Pope in the lobby but apparently the pope is no longer the landlord (as we joked with the nice guy at the front desk.) like many things here, it’s a mystery.

Found this:

History

A 15th century palazzo, close to the Basilica of St Cecilia, with an enchanting history as the home of nobility and St Francesca Romana for 40 years, then later the Pia Opera dei Santi Esercizi Spirituali.