Into the volcano – on Hawaii’s Big Island


Sometimes it looks like the top of a very crusty pan of brownies. Other times, like the dark rough folds of a rhinocerous or elephant. That’s what came to mind as we were walking across the other-worldly surface of the Kileau Iki crater. It was also easy to imagine a sci-fi film crew suddenly appearing to take in the scene.

The four-mile hike on a glorious sunny day did not disappoint. We made our way along a path zigzagging through dense tropical vegetation down into the black barren wasteland of the crater surface where we walked right straight across. The only guide were cairns (stacks of rocks) scattered at various points to let us know where to go, sort of.

The drive down to the sea – Chain of Craters Drive – was spectacular. It took us 19 miles first through forest, then through lava-flattened and blackened fields and then to an overlook where way down below the ocean crashed up against more cliffs. Winding down another level towards the ocean we looked back at the green mountains we’d just been standing on and could see stretches that were blackened by lava flowing to the sea. The last 11 miles of the drive are closed due to previous eruption damage and there was no active lava flow but we did have not one drop of rain, which I gather is somewhat unusual. In fact, it’s only rained for a few hours during our six days here.

We also stopped in at the art gallery next to the visitors center in the park which was full of terrific stuff – koa wood bowls, painted gourds, wood block prints, wooden furniture, paintings – but all too expensive fur us. At 4 p.m. we had lunch – sharing a tuna melt at the pleasantly funky lava rock cafe and waited for my laundry to dry at the nearby Volcano Wash and Dry. After a brief stop in the hot tub here, we’re off to see some hula dancing back at the park on the grounds of the military base there.

The Kileau Lodge, by the by, did a MUCH better job with breakfast this morning (than dinner last night). We enjoyed sitting by the old stone fireplace with plaques set into it from YMCAs all over the world. And the food was well prepared and served.

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