Well I booked the last room this old hotel has for the evening – $40 and sharing a bathroom – but figured worth a try and more interesting certainly than our other dirt cheap options for one night (i.e. the howard Johnson’s in La Crosse which sounds grim.) This hotel at least has character, is right on the Mississippi and isn’t that far from where we need to be the next day (about 40 minutes from Sparta.) It’s “Catfish Days” in the tiny town of Trempealeau so going to be lively, we’re told. We pick up the key at the bar!